The White Dog
2329 West Main Street
Richmond, Virginia
(804) 340-1975

http://www.thewhitedog.com

I can't tell you how many times we had driven by The White Dog with the best of intentions of stopping in for dinner. Finally, during our most recent visit Richmond, we managed to make good on our promises.

Presided over by owner/bartender Barry Pruitt and named after the Pruitt's all-American mutt, Max, an alumnus of the SPCA, this casual eatery is a narrow, diminutive affair adorned with colorful original artwork painted by Mr. Pruitt's wife, Roslyn, (which is also for sale). So take a few steps down — the restaurant is below street level — and settle in at the cozy bar or one of the comfortable wooden booths, soak up the pub-like atmosphere, and give a listen to the subtle strains of Diana Krall, Frank Sinatra, Louis Armstrong, Ella Fitzgerald, and a host of other jazz vocalists.

The wine list is a compact affair, whites ranging in price from $21.00 (Salmon Creek Chardonnay) to $55.00 (Cakebread Chardonnay); reds go for $21.00 (Salmon Creek Cabernet) to $64.00 (Stag's Leap "Artemis"). Especially recommended is a crisp, herbal St. Claire Riesling ($26.00) from New Zealand. The establishment also features ten brews on tap, including the likes of Boddington Cream Ale, Guiness Stout, Harp Lager, Brooklyn Brown Ale, and Widmer Hefeweizen.

The American regional cuisine with international accents is good, solid fare and, like the ambiance, completely unpretentious. The "Bruschetta Trio" ($8.00) — ample slices of crusty bread topped with chopped tomatoes & Parmesan, artichoke spread, and hummus; the plate garnished with black olives, roasted red peppers, gherkins, and pickled onions — is a first-rate starter. Even better are the "Bayou Catfish Fingers" ($9.00). Lightly breaded and deep fried to a golden brown, their somewhat bland, crunchy countenance is nicely counterpoised by a zippy jalapeño dipping sauce.

Other appetizer possibilities include fried spring rolls with apricot chutney ($8.00), tequila/lime marinated scallops ($10.00), and smoked salmon and deviled eggs accompanied by horseradish cream cheese ($12.00).

Main courses offer a number of mix/match combos... You may, for example, opt for The White Dog dinner salad — romaine & red leaf lettuce, tomatoes, cucumbers, carrots, black olives, jicama, marinated red onions, pepperoncini, hard boiled egg, Monterey jack cheese, cheddar cheese, and Brie — adding one of the following grilled accoutrements: portobello mushroom ($14.00), chicken ($16.00), salmon ($17.00), shrimp ($18.00), or New York strip ($19.00).

You may also make similar arrangements with toppings added to spinach penne pasta tossed with sun-dried tomato pesto: feta cheese ($15.00), chicken ($17.00), scallops ($18.00), or shrimp ($19.00).

Among the more straightforward entrées, pan-fried grouper ($21.00) is set on a bed of ancho chili-infused polenta and garnished with an impeccably fresh vegetable medley. The fish is nicely browned, sufficiently cooked, and thoroughly moist. The polenta is soft and quite good, although it didn't have a great deal of zip. The only downer here is a crown of corn relish, which contains the same pickled onions that tag along with the aforementioned bruschetta. Both the aroma and taste are extremely pronounced, almost eclipsing one's enjoyment of both the grouper and the polenta.

The bourbon-spiked barbecue shrimp ($19.00) is served with excellent cheddar grits and steamed kale. Rather than being slathered with BBQ sauce and then grilled, the crustaceans are grilled first and then anointed with sauce. Somewhat different than expected but still quite satisfying.

It should be noted that a seafood special and vegetarian plate are offered each evening. And confirmed lovers of red meat may indulge in the New York strip with roasted garlic glaze ($22.00), London broil with cracked black pepper gravy ($18.00), or Max's carnivore special (priced daily).

To finish off your evening at table, be sure to try the establishment's signature dessert, bread pudding with a whisky hard sauce and caramel glaze. You might also sample the strawberry panna cotta or caramel ice cream (all desserts $6.00).

The Artful Diner
September 2004

The Artful Diner Diner is a freelance food writer who writes restaurant reviews for nj.com. His latest review can be seen on his nj.com weblog at http://blog.nj.com/artful_diner/. An archive of past reviews for nj.com as well as reviews for restaurants around the country and the world can be found on this Web site at http://www.artfuldiner.com/reviews .

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