New Jersey Restaurant Review
Washington Inn
801 Washington Street
Cape May, Cape May County, New Jersey
(609) 884-5697
By The Artful Diner
Special to New Jersey Online
7/6/98
Built as a plantation home in the year 1840, the Washington Inn is a perennial favorite of Garden State diners. And the reason for its immense popularity is immediately apparent. There's a touch of Old World civility here, an understated elegance that intoxicates the spirit. This is not one of those "grab 'n' growl," "eat 'n' run" establishments. Indeed, this is precisely the kind of utilitarian "feeding-time-at-the-zoo" mentality the majority of those who dine here wish to escape. They come to spend a few quiet hours in a bygone age, to savor a moment in time when the world moved to the beat of a decidedly different drummer. And the Craig Family deserves a great deal of credit, not only for carefully nurturing the last fleeting vestiges of romanticism in our midst, but also for maintaining the restaurant's culinary integrity in the face of ever-increasing pressure from the annual invasion of less than discriminating palates.
An excellent way to begin your meal is with a preprandial libation in the cozy bar. This also puts you within easy striking distance of the spectacular 10,000-bottle wine cellar--which definitely deserves a look-see. But not only are the choices extensive, the prices are completely within reason. In addition, be sure to check out the daily wine specials (also available by the glass), and the sizeable number of excellent half bottle selections.
When you're finally ready to settle down at table, be advised that the hostess may very well attempt to lead you to the establishment's version of "Siberia." These "dead tables" put you within earshot of the kitchen and afford a breath-taking view of the swinging doors leading to and from; they also strategically place you at the restaurant's busiest intersection. Just indicate that you would prefer a change of venue, and the hostess will smile graciously and move on. Oh, well... can't blame her for trying. Depending upon the time of year, request either the garden room or the patio; these are, in my opinion, the best seats in the house.
While the atmosphere may recall another era, the food is as contemporary as today's newspaper. Executive chef Mimi Wood serves up an intriguing array of all-American fare... but she is not the least bit shy about drawing inspiration from a variety of other sources as well.
Thus, you may discover a wonderfully light and crisp Cape May crab cake with roasted red pepper sauce sharing the appetizer menu with such diverse items as escargot in puff pastry with Pernod cream, soft polenta with marscapone and taleggio cheese, and succulent sea scallops wrapped in bacon and drizzled with a tangy horseradish cream. When it comes to the entrees, there are plenty of selections to tempt the carnivore: roasted American rack of lamb, a 14-ounce Kansas steak, or a grilled filet mignon with bearnaise sauce, either with or without benefit of jumbo lump crab meat. You will also find a suitable number of seafood offerings, as well as at least one vegetarian special each evening.
If I have one criticism with regard to Ms. Wood's creative cookery, it is that she occasionally becomes a bit TOO creative for her own (and her patrons') good. And recent menu changes seem to bear out this assessment. Gone, according to local friends who dine at the Inn on a regular basis, are several wonderful (and comparatively delicate) old favorites. Current receipes are a good deal heavier in nature, as well as being infinitely more gussied up than a number of their predecessors. In all fairness, some of the diverse ingredients marry quite well together... but others do not. A special of herb and cornmeal crusted tuna topped with jumbo lump crab meat, roasted red and yellow peppers and finished with a tabasco beurre blanc is absolutely marvelous. On the other hand, the roasted salmon with a vanilla crust and coconut orange vinaigrette is so incredibly sweet it sets the teeth on edge. An unfortunate case of gastronomic overkill. Ditto the Flounder Jefferson. It arrives swimming in a brandy lobster cream sauce that is entirely too rich for my palate. I am not asking Ms. Wood to compromise her culinary principles... I am merely suggesting that a lighter touch and slightly more subtle approach might prove beneficial.
Thanks to Martha Williamson, the new pastry chef, endings remain as sweet and as elegant as ever they were. Her Pineapple Rightside Up Cake with caramelized pineapples and caramel ice cream is simply superb. As is her delightful lemon glazed cheesecake with strawberry sauce. On the other hand, should you be partial to denouements of the liquid variety, you will also find a copious selection of international coffees, liquors, brandies and dessert wines.
No restaurant is perfect, but the Washington Inn continues to pamper its diverse and loyal clientele with exceptional cuisine, gracious, professional service and a warm inviting ambiance. Hardly inexpensive (as you will note below)... but, in my opinion, certainly worth the price of admission. If you have yet to be captivated by its many sophisticated charms, you owe it to yourself to pay a call.
Hours: Sun - Thurs, 5 - 9 p.m.; Fri & Sat, 5 - 10 p.m.
Credit Cards: All major
Attire: Jackets & ties preferred
Smoking: In bar and on porch only
Reservations: Essential
Parking: Onsite
Price: Our most recent sojourn set us back $163.00 (including cocktails, a $50.00 bottle of Kistler Chardonnay, tax & gratuity). Your own bottom line may be more or less, depending upon your weakness for foreign and/or domestic vintages.
