The Artful Diner - Two If By Sea Review

New Jersey Restaurant Review

Two If By Sea

(Restaurant Now Closed)
141 Shrewsbury Avenue
Red Bank, Monmouth County, New Jersey
(732) 747-1586

By The Artful Diner
Special to New Jersey Online
2/10/03
(Note 12/2003 - New Chef - Sean Foley)

By virtue of its move from Ocean Township several years ago, Two If By Sea found itself heir to a fascinating bit of local culinary history. Its current domicile was, for some six decades, home to Sal's Tavern, a convivial watering hole and family-oriented neighborhood "joint" -- in the very best sense that oft-misunderstood term implies. But whereas Sal's majored in marinara, proprietors Scott Farrar and Vince DeVivio have obviously elected to take a more urbane approach.

And while vestiges of the past remain -- the charming antique bar, appropriately dubbed the "Flying Fish Saloon," and adjoining cozy booths and comfortable dining room -- the innovative American cuisine, in the capable hands of CIA alumnus Jim Kavka, is decidedly sophisticated and upscale. Mr. Kavka is also the graduate of a number of high-energy, high profile kitchens, including Rumson's Fromagerie and Philadelphia's Brasserie Perrier, and his extensive experience with the noble inhabitants of Davy Jones' locker is readily apparent.

The shrimp tempura ($11.00), for example, makes a first-class starter. Locked in the loving embrace of an ethereal batter, the delicate, crunchy crustaceans surround an island of cucumber salad and are consummated in a tangy sea of pickled ginger aïoli. The sashimi-grade tuna tartare ($12.00), another of the printed menu's permanent residents, is also highly recommended. Morsels of tuna are commingled with cilantro, scallions, and chopped tomatoes to form a rich and meaty epicenter. A zippy wasabi-soy vinaigrette drizzled about the periphery adds a bit of zip; a tiara of crispy shoestring potatoes, a touch of class.

And when they are available, the Prince Edward Island mussels ($9.00) are truly an extraordinary feast. Plump and incredibly tender, they swim to table in a spicy Thai-curry broth whose fiery attributes are tamed with just a hint of sweet coconut and sprinkling of bitter cilantro.

If you would prefer not to travel the seafood route, the soup of the day ($6.00) is always worth a look-see. Recently encountered was a deliciously decadent potato soup awash with bits of bacon and fontina. A velvety revelation... yet prepared without a hint of cream. You might also consider the crispy wild mushroom and prosciutto spring roll embellished with a creamy goat cheese sauce ($8.00) or the roasted beet salad ($8.00) enlivened with haricot verts, orange segments, blue cheese, pistachios, and a lively sherry vinaigrette.

Entrées continue the kitchen's creative work and, like their predecessors, succeed in appealing to the eye without intimidating the palate. Among the non-seafood items, succulent slices of pan-roasted Long Island duck breast ($25.00) are perfectly matched with a silky parsnip and celery root purée and ebullient apple demi-glace; an exceedingly moist pecan-crusted pork tenderloin ($19.00) is garnished with feathery pumpkin gnocchi, roasted shallots, spinach, and finds its ultimate fulfillment in a bracing honey-mustard emulsion; and committed carnivores are unlikely to resist the hefty charms of a grilled 14-ounce "Hereford" rib-eye steak ($26.00) accompanied by blue cheese scalloped potatoes and an assertive brandy-black pepper demi-glace.

Ingratiating the aforementioned may be; but, for my money, matters piscatorial are still where the action is, as they most clearly showcase the chef's considerable talents. From the set menu, I am particularly fond of the Atlantic salmon set on a sumptuous seabed of garlic smashed potatoes ($22.00). The consummating touch, however, is surely a sensuous wave of port wine reduction. A bit too overbearing for most delicate denizens of the deep but just right for the salmon... especially since it has already been suitably invigorated with a light dusting of black pepper.

Among the seafood specials, the Tai snapper ($28.00) is a superlative standout. The delicately textured filet is presented with a golden potato crust and reclines on a shaved fennel salad. The chef's coup de grâce is a bracing horseradish beurre blanc. Equally appealing is a moist and meaty monkfish filet ($24.00) sautéed in lemon fumé, nestled in an herbaceous cauliflower purée, and crowned with crispy potatoes.

Desserts ($6.50) are more homespun than their predecessors but still quite recommendable. Nothing could be more comforting than a warm apple crumb crisp adorned with cinnamon ice cream or, perhaps, an excellent cheesecake imbued with raspberries. You may also want to have a go at the vanilla bean crème brûlée or fresh seasonal berries with zabaglione.

In addition to the top-notch cuisine, another reason for dining at Two If By Sea is the exceptional catalog of fine vintages, a recipient of the Wine Spectator's 2002 Award of Excellent. The reserve list holds a bevy of international oenological treasures: a 1982 Chateau Cheval Blanc ($900.00), an '82 Chateau Haut Brion ($750.00), and a 1989 Chateau Margaux ($425.00), just to name a few of the more prominent members of this all-star cast.

Apart from these wallet busters, however, Messrs. Farrar and DeVivo also deliver up some first-rate vintages for more modest budgets. The crisp and lively 1999 Alsatian Pinot Gris "Reserve" from Trimbach ($32.00) marries extremely well with a variety of seafood, as do the 2000 Pascal Jolivet Sancerre ($29.00) and the 2001 Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand ($27.00).

If you're more partial to reds, you can't go wrong with a robust and reasonably priced 1999 "Parallèle 45" Côtes du Rhone from Jaboulet ($17.00), a luscious 2002 Australian Shiraz from Marquis-Philips ($27.00), or 1998 Markham Cabernet Sauvignon ($40.00).

Two If By Sea also features a number of interesting wines by the glass, as well as a commendable selection of ports, cognacs, and dessert wines.

Cuisine: American/Seafood
Hours: Lunch: Tues - Fri, 12:00 noon - 2:30 p.m.; Dinner: Tues - Fri, 5:00 p.m. - 10:00 p.m.; Sat, 5:00 p.m. - 11:00 p.m.; Sun, 5:00 p.m. - 9:00 p.m.; CLOSED MONDAY
Credit Cards: All major
Attire: Smart casual
Smoking: Smoking is permitted in the bar area only.
Reservations: Recommended on weekends
Parking: Onsite
Alcohol: License; award-winning wine list
Price: Moderate/Expensive
Handicapped Accessible: Yes