ANDRÉ'S RESTAURANT AND WINE BOUTIQUE
188 Spring Street
Newton, NJ
(973) 300-4192 www.andresrestaurant.com
Nearly seven years ago, proprietors André and Tracey deWaal
hit the ground running. They captured the immediate attention of the Garden State's
knowledgeable foodies and every professional hired belly within reasonable
community distance. And I'm happy to report that, after several recent visits,
this charming establishment has matured with mellifluous grace. Tracey deWaal's
welcome is as warm and as captivating as ever, and Mr. deWaal's innovative
American cuisine continues to beguile patrons with gratifyingly delicious
vistas of colors, tastes, and textures. Chef deWaal's menu changes fortnightly
and has included such stylish presentations as wild king salmon with basmati
rice and tarragon beurre blanc, strappingly robust New York strip steak
consummated with a zesty horseradish-mustard sauce, and pan-roasted duck breast
served with savory duck fried rice and ingratiating apricot-tinged sweet and
sour sauce. The restaurant sports a first-rate wine list... and the menu also
suggests reasonably priced wines by the glass that match up with appetizers and
entrées (and desserts). A very nice touch and ideal for couples who may be of
differing opinions with regard to the fruit of the vine. André's Restaurant
and Wine Boutique is cozy, comfortable, and so very romantic. It remains
one of New Jersey's premier dining destinations.
Chef/owner Chef Mark Mikolajczyk -- who cooked up a storm at Whispers
just a few blocks away -- may have changed venues, but his sumptuous American
fare is as congenially creative as ever. And since he is joined in the kitchen
by his long-time sous-chef and now partner, David McCleery, you may rest
assured that your discriminating palate is in extremely capable hands. You
would do well to begin with the chef's signature starter, a "Panache of
Appetizers," featuring an extraordinarily rich jumbo lump crab cake sharing the
spotlight with a duet of perfectly grilled shrimp. The homemade pasta of the
day is always a good bet, as is Mr. Mikolajczyk's unique take on the classic
Caesar, a grilled sheaf of romaine replete with zesty dressing, Parmesan
cheese, and smattering of crunchy croutons. Entrées, like all that have
preceded them, are both subtle and substantive. The filet of day-boat fluke is
beautifully plated and consummated with an exquisite brown butter; and the
prime New York strip steak is propelled into orbit on the wings of a lusty port
wine demi-glace. Desserts, courtesy of Chef McCleery, are worth saving
room for. And topping my list of recommendations is his trio of crème brûlée
-- white chocolate, pear, and dark chocolate -- all incomparably creamy and
sporting picture-perfect caramelized tiaras. A wonderful evening at table awaits.
BYOB.
CHEF'S TABLE
754 Franklin Avenue
Franklin Lakes, NJ
(201) 891-6644
Tucked away in the Franklin Square Shopping Center, rubbing
elbows with a Dunkin' Donuts and Chinese takeout, the restaurant's cozy,
intimate interior charms patrons with etched glass panels, oil paintings,
plethora of copper pots and pans, and delightful collection of curios. But it
is chef/proprietor Claude Baills' hearty French bistro fare that remains the
drawing card. And his cuisine is as sophisticated as it is satisfying. Mr. Baills
has an artistic bent, and this is clearly evidenced in his many eye-catching
symmetrical presentations. Start things off with the shepherd's salad, a
kaleidoscope of colors, shapes, and textures, all crowned with an invigorating
sherry vinaigrette or, perhaps, tender spears of steamed asparagus topped with
sautéed mushrooms and surrounded by a scintillating sea of beurre blanc.
Entrées, of course, offer their own unique rewards. The tempura-wrapped
medallions of monkfish filets are positively pristine, as is the veal Cordon
Bleu and splendid sautéed calf's liver. Not to be missed, however, is the entrecôte
Bordelaise, slices of rib-eye steak decked out in a heady cabernet sauce
accompanied by irresistible French fries. Among the desserts, the warm French
apple tart, tart Tatin, and crème brûlée are all benchmark. The Chef's
Table is a wonderful restaurant to which I would gladly return at the drop
of a fork. BYOB.
DENNIS FOY'S
816 Arnold Avenue
Point Pleasant Beach, NJ
(732) 295-0466
Dennis Foy is a consummate artiste, but his
methodology is muted rather than maniacal. Architectural razzle-dazzle is
conspicuous by its absence; culinary presentations are direct and forthright,
engaging the diner's eye and palate in a discreet array of complementary and
contrasting culinary constituents. "The proof of the pudding," as Cervantes
noted, "is in the eating." And that is surely the case here. The tian of crab
is a fabulous opener. Beautifully sautéed, there's just enough filler to hold
the rich, meaty morsels together, just enough cracked black pepper to add a bit
of zip, and just the proper amount of chive butter to provide the perfect
finishing touch. The warm goat cheese tart is yet another of Mr. Foy's
deceptively simple but totally beguiling presentations, as the creaminess of
the tart is cleverly counterpoised by a substratum of diced tomatoes and
tincture of thyme. Entrées travel the same high road as the appetizers. His
seared sirloin steak is superbly textured, the accompanying béarnaise an
unmitigated joy. And piscatorial pleasures also abound: Beautiful filets of
sautéed Atlantic fluke recline on a piquant pillow of celery root purée, while
the sautéed wild king salmon settles comfortably on a divan of flawlessly
seasoned, not too creamy creamed spinach. Desserts -- including the most
exquisite crème brûlée (Tahitian vanilla) it has ever been my pleasure
to ingest -- are guaranteed to bring your evening at table to a most delightful denouement.
BYOB.
Presided over by Chef Anthony Ferrando and gracious
front-of-the-house coordinator Judy Matthew, restaurant Dish -- although
only a year old as of November 11th (2005) -- has already made a
significant impact on the ever-expanding Red Bank dining scene. When the
diminutive storefront is filled to capacity, which is most of the time, the
atmosphere is joyously and bustlingly bistro... and the food fits right in. It is
hearty, robust American fare with an occasional innovative tweak along the way.
Be sure to sample the tender and succulent New York strip steak with
extraordinarily addictive herb frites or, also highly recommended, the
tilapia and shrimp combo consummated with an outstanding roasted garlic beurre
blanc. Starters include marvelously crispy spinach, fresh greenery deep
fried in canola oil and enhanced with a dash of sea salt; the spring roll of
the day (perhaps a sweet potato purée spiked with ginger); and marvelously
plump mussels served up in a lusty broth awash with arugula and bits of roasted
tomato. Among the desserts, the gloriously gooey white/dark chocolate bread
pudding is worth the price of admission. Every town needs a restaurant like Dish,
a pleasantly unpretentious eatery that serves up lusty bistro fare in
attractive, convivial surroundings. Whether making the rounds of Red Bank's
boutique shops and antique emporiums, taking in a movie, or paying a visit to
the Count Basie Theatre, Dish should be at the very top of your dining
agenda. BYOB.
Proprietors Lisa Cirillo and Elizabeth Rielly offer a warm
welcome, and Chef Toni Froio; a native of Bologna, Italy, who is best known for
her former culinary exploits at the Farmingdale House, will surely dazzle you
with her own unique brand of innovative yet homey Italian cuisine. Among the antipasti,
treasures of the sea abound: The baby clams are pristinely and pleasantly plump
and swim to table in a light but savory broth that harbors a plethora of white
beans and ingratiating "kick" of spice; succulently seared, marvelously meaty
jumbo scallops recline on a sautéed seabed of broccoli rabe and pillow of
whipped potatoes and are, in turn, surrounded by an addictive amalgam of finely
chopped capers, Gaeta olives, tomatoes, and grilled shiitake mushrooms;
diaphanous pepper-encrusted slices of tuna carpaccio tantalize the tongue
before melting away into a velvety nothingness, their rich texture perfectly
counterpoised by a tiara of fennel and pecorino salad. Entrée-wise, the veal
chop Milanese -- replete with arugula, tomato salad, and drizzle of balsamic
vinaigrette -- is exceedingly moist and tender; and the filet mignon, which
arrives in the company of garlic mashed potatoes and wilted spinach, is equally
pleasing. Desserts, of course, demonstrate the same sophisticated subtleties as
their predecessors. The rich, creamy cheesecake is classic, the tiramisù
nothing short of benchmark, and the luscious lemon cake with toasted coconut
and mango purée positively seductive. I Cavallini Ristorante also sports
a compact, reasonably priced wine list, as well as a very nice selection of
dessert wines, ports, sherries, cognacs, and single malt scotches.
LAWRENCEVILLE INN
2691 Main Street (Route 206)
Lawrenceville, NJ
(609) 219-1900 www.lawrencevilleinn.com
The Lawrenceville Inn is a labor of love on the part
of proprietors Jonathan and Elizabeth Hunt, who purchased the 1892 former
farmhouse in August 2001 and spent the next two years carefully restoring the
physical plant from attic to basement. From its inception in 2003, this lovely
restaurant has always enjoyed the reputation of serving up sophisticated
contemporary American cuisine in a stylishly rustic historic setting. But since
his arrival in mid June (2005), Le Clere English, the current power behind the
stove, has succeeded in taking the cuisine one step beyond in a very short
period of time. He seems to understand intuitively the subtleties of culinary
engagement, as his seasonally-inspired offerings are as scrupulously prepared
as they are attractively presented. Preludes include a silkily seductive seared
foie gras in the company of an alluring array of sautéed Terhune apples
and cider gelée and wonderful wild mushroom risotto imbued with touches
of aged Parmesan cheese. And entrées continue the kitchen's winning ways: a
tumultuously flavorful New Zealand sirloin served with an incomparable sauce piquante;
Nieman Ranch double pork chop pillowed on a rich vegetable gratin and finished
with a provocative cranberry jus; and a special seared haddock set on a
seabed of leek and eggplant ragoût and circumscribed by three scrumptious
deep-fried haddock-potato dumplings. Among the desserts, the decadent dark
chocolate terrine with an equally opulent peanut butter sauce is a standout. BYOB.
Matt McPherson and Matthew Green, former roommates at the
CIA, have combined their considerable talents to significantly raise the bar
for fine dining in the Hunterdon County area. Mr. McPherson likes to refer to
their culinary venture as an "American chophouse." This is, indeed, an
exceedingly accurate description, as the cuisine is reassuringly and
restoratively robust, yet decidedly sophisticated in both preparation and
presentation; and the food, as you would surmise from the restaurant's moniker,
also emphasizes the chefs' extraordinary expertise at the grill. Soups hold a
prominent place among the starters, and as there is always a triptych of
possibilities on the printed menu, diners are given opportunity to sample mini
portions of all three. Preludes of a more substantive nature include pumpkin
ravioli with sage brown butter sauce, wild mushroom tart in the company of
Maytag blue cheese and port wine reduction, and grilled Camembert embellished
with red raspberry preserves. When it comes to entrées, you can't go wrong with
the grilled filet mignon with Bordelaise sauce or grilled "white marble" pork
tenderloin companied by an apple cider glaze. And treasures of the sea are just
as superb: a luscious salmon filet with stone-ground mustard beurre blanc,
honey-marinated swordfish, or grilled whole fish of the day. Desserts, all made
on the premises, are worth both the additional calories and added expenditure.
Kudos to the chefs! BYOB.
Step into Panico's and you take a step back in time.
This is what fine restaurant dining used to be -- and should be again. There's a
definitive touch of elegance here: soft, subdued lighting, mirrored walls, rich
hues of salmon and pecan, a single rose gracing each table. And the charmingly
retro ambiance is perfectly complemented by the Old World civility of maître d'
Jose Solano and members of his staff. When it comes to the cuisine, executive
chef Nestor Ramos ably carries on the restaurant's tradition of bringing out
the very best in the freshest possible ingredients. Appetizers include such
innovative dishes as carpaccio of portabello mushroom; eggplant Napoleon with
homemade mozzarella cheese, tincture of basil and splash of aged balsamic
vinegar; or winning salad of arugula and prosciutto embellished with crumbles
of blue cheese and an assertive red wine vinaigrette. Entrées are rustic and
robust yet beautifully prepared and presented. I would highly recommend the
special branzino -- a whole Mediterranean sea bass that is grilled, roasted, and
dexterously filleted at table -- as well as the benchmark osso buco braised in
celery, carrots, onions, and white wine and pillowed on a bed of orzo. For
dessert, try the tiramisù or incredible Strudel alle Fragole, phyllo
dough filled with strawberries, mascarpone, ricotta, and embellishments of
vanilla gelato and caramel sauce... and don't forget to check out the
award-winning wine list. For that special occasion -- or any
occasion -- this fine restaurant remains the choice of knowledgeable and
discriminating diners.
TRAP ROCK RESTAURANT AND BREWERY
279 Springfield Avenue
Berkeley Heights, NJ
(908) 665-1755 www.traprockrest.com
Trap Rock is a microbrewery and, as such, turns out
some first-rate handcrafted ales and lagers. It also sports a first-rate wine
list, so lovers of the fruit of the vine need not despair. In addition, the
bustling, convivial bar features an intriguing prospectus of martinis, ports,
scotches, and liqueurs. Given the libationary high jinks, you could easily
assume that this popular establishment's cuisine might be something of an
afterthought. But this is surely not the case, as Chef Josh Fryer offers outstanding
New American fare with provocative French and Asian subtitles. Among the
appetizers, gifts from the sea play a leading role. And the two stars of the
show are undoubtedly the seafood trio -- spicy salmon roll, tuna tartar, and
jumbo lump crab and cucumber salad -- and the incredible lobster spring rolls presented
with a tempting trio of spicy mustard, chili-lime marmalade, and coconut curry
dipping sauces. And entrées are just as beguiling. The grilled pork loin is
moist and meaty, reclines on a robust white bean and chorizo ragoût, and is consummated
with a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil; the pan-seared salmon arrives replete
with wild mushrooms, black lentils, and truffle spinach; and the pepper-crusted
rare tuna is accompanied by a sweet corn risotto, asparagus, and finished with
a roasted red pepper vinaigrette. Desserts also do not disappoint. A personal
favorite is the incomparably rich inside out German chocolate cake garnished
with Heath Bar ice cream on a crisp coconut tuile, and finished with a
fabulous toasted coconut anglaise. The Trap Rock Restaurant and Brewery
also offers a limited casual menu in the bar/lounge. And the Vermont cheddar
burger and fish and chips -- ale-battered cod, pommes frites, chipotle
slaw, and roasted onion tartar sauce -- are both worth the price of admission.
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Nearly seven years ago, proprietors André and Tracey deWaal
hit the ground running. They captured the immediate attention of the Garden State's
knowledgeable foodies and every professional hired belly within reasonable
community distance. And I'm happy to report that, after several recent visits,
this charming establishment has matured with mellifluous grace. Tracey deWaal's
welcome is as warm and as captivating as ever, and Mr. deWaal's innovative
American cuisine continues to beguile patrons with gratifyingly delicious
vistas of colors, tastes, and textures. Chef deWaal's menu changes fortnightly
and has included such stylish presentations as wild king salmon with basmati
rice and tarragon beurre blanc, strappingly robust New York strip steak
consummated with a zesty horseradish-mustard sauce, and pan-roasted duck breast
served with savory duck fried rice and ingratiating apricot-tinged sweet and
sour sauce. The restaurant sports a first-rate wine list... and the menu also
suggests reasonably priced wines by the glass that match up with appetizers and
entrées (and desserts). A very nice touch and ideal for couples who may be of
differing opinions with regard to the fruit of the vine. André's Restaurant
and Wine Boutique is cozy, comfortable, and so very romantic. It remains
one of New Jersey's premier dining destinations.
Chef/owner Chef Mark Mikolajczyk -- who cooked up a storm at Whispers
just a few blocks away -- may have changed venues, but his sumptuous American
fare is as congenially creative as ever. And since he is joined in the kitchen
by his long-time sous-chef and now partner, David McCleery, you may rest
assured that your discriminating palate is in extremely capable hands. You
would do well to begin with the chef's signature starter, a "Panache of
Appetizers," featuring an extraordinarily rich jumbo lump crab cake sharing the
spotlight with a duet of perfectly grilled shrimp. The homemade pasta of the
day is always a good bet, as is Mr. Mikolajczyk's unique take on the classic
Caesar, a grilled sheaf of romaine replete with zesty dressing, Parmesan
cheese, and smattering of crunchy croutons. Entrées, like all that have
preceded them, are both subtle and substantive. The filet of day-boat fluke is
beautifully plated and consummated with an exquisite brown butter; and the
prime New York strip steak is propelled into orbit on the wings of a lusty port
wine demi-glace. Desserts, courtesy of Chef McCleery, are worth saving
room for. And topping my list of recommendations is his trio of crème brûlée
-- white chocolate, pear, and dark chocolate -- all incomparably creamy and
sporting picture-perfect caramelized tiaras. A wonderful evening at table awaits.
BYOB.
Tucked away in the Franklin Square Shopping Center, rubbing
elbows with a Dunkin' Donuts and Chinese takeout, the restaurant's cozy,
intimate interior charms patrons with etched glass panels, oil paintings,
plethora of copper pots and pans, and delightful collection of curios. But it
is chef/proprietor Claude Baills' hearty French bistro fare that remains the
drawing card. And his cuisine is as sophisticated as it is satisfying. Mr. Baills
has an artistic bent, and this is clearly evidenced in his many eye-catching
symmetrical presentations. Start things off with the shepherd's salad, a
kaleidoscope of colors, shapes, and textures, all crowned with an invigorating
sherry vinaigrette or, perhaps, tender spears of steamed asparagus topped with
sautéed mushrooms and surrounded by a scintillating sea of beurre blanc.
Entrées, of course, offer their own unique rewards. The tempura-wrapped
medallions of monkfish filets are positively pristine, as is the veal Cordon
Bleu and splendid sautéed calf's liver. Not to be missed, however, is the entrecôte
Bordelaise, slices of rib-eye steak decked out in a heady cabernet sauce
accompanied by irresistible French fries. Among the desserts, the warm French
apple tart, tart Tatin, and crème brûlée are all benchmark. The Chef's
Table is a wonderful restaurant to which I would gladly return at the drop
of a fork. BYOB.
Dennis Foy is a consummate artiste, but his
methodology is muted rather than maniacal. Architectural razzle-dazzle is
conspicuous by its absence; culinary presentations are direct and forthright,
engaging the diner's eye and palate in a discreet array of complementary and
contrasting culinary constituents. "The proof of the pudding," as Cervantes
noted, "is in the eating." And that is surely the case here. The tian of crab
is a fabulous opener. Beautifully sautéed, there's just enough filler to hold
the rich, meaty morsels together, just enough cracked black pepper to add a bit
of zip, and just the proper amount of chive butter to provide the perfect
finishing touch. The warm goat cheese tart is yet another of Mr. Foy's
deceptively simple but totally beguiling presentations, as the creaminess of
the tart is cleverly counterpoised by a substratum of diced tomatoes and
tincture of thyme. Entrées travel the same high road as the appetizers. His
seared sirloin steak is superbly textured, the accompanying béarnaise an
unmitigated joy. And piscatorial pleasures also abound: Beautiful filets of
sautéed Atlantic fluke recline on a piquant pillow of celery root purée, while
the sautéed wild king salmon settles comfortably on a divan of flawlessly
seasoned, not too creamy creamed spinach. Desserts -- including the most
exquisite crème brûlée (Tahitian vanilla) it has ever been my pleasure
to ingest -- are guaranteed to bring your evening at table to a most delightful denouement.
BYOB.
Presided over by Chef Anthony Ferrando and gracious
front-of-the-house coordinator Judy Matthew, restaurant Dish -- although
only a year old as of November 11th (2005) -- has already made a
significant impact on the ever-expanding Red Bank dining scene. When the
diminutive storefront is filled to capacity, which is most of the time, the
atmosphere is joyously and bustlingly bistro... and the food fits right in. It is
hearty, robust American fare with an occasional innovative tweak along the way.
Be sure to sample the tender and succulent New York strip steak with
extraordinarily addictive herb frites or, also highly recommended, the
tilapia and shrimp combo consummated with an outstanding roasted garlic beurre
blanc. Starters include marvelously crispy spinach, fresh greenery deep
fried in canola oil and enhanced with a dash of sea salt; the spring roll of
the day (perhaps a sweet potato purée spiked with ginger); and marvelously
plump mussels served up in a lusty broth awash with arugula and bits of roasted
tomato. Among the desserts, the gloriously gooey white/dark chocolate bread
pudding is worth the price of admission. Every town needs a restaurant like Dish,
a pleasantly unpretentious eatery that serves up lusty bistro fare in
attractive, convivial surroundings. Whether making the rounds of Red Bank's
boutique shops and antique emporiums, taking in a movie, or paying a visit to
the Count Basie Theatre, Dish should be at the very top of your dining
agenda. BYOB.
Proprietors Lisa Cirillo and Elizabeth Rielly offer a warm
welcome, and Chef Toni Froio; a native of Bologna, Italy, who is best known for
her former culinary exploits at the Farmingdale House, will surely dazzle you
with her own unique brand of innovative yet homey Italian cuisine. Among the antipasti,
treasures of the sea abound: The baby clams are pristinely and pleasantly plump
and swim to table in a light but savory broth that harbors a plethora of white
beans and ingratiating "kick" of spice; succulently seared, marvelously meaty
jumbo scallops recline on a sautéed seabed of broccoli rabe and pillow of
whipped potatoes and are, in turn, surrounded by an addictive amalgam of finely
chopped capers, Gaeta olives, tomatoes, and grilled shiitake mushrooms;
diaphanous pepper-encrusted slices of tuna carpaccio tantalize the tongue
before melting away into a velvety nothingness, their rich texture perfectly
counterpoised by a tiara of fennel and pecorino salad. Entrée-wise, the veal
chop Milanese -- replete with arugula, tomato salad, and drizzle of balsamic
vinaigrette -- is exceedingly moist and tender; and the filet mignon, which
arrives in the company of garlic mashed potatoes and wilted spinach, is equally
pleasing. Desserts, of course, demonstrate the same sophisticated subtleties as
their predecessors. The rich, creamy cheesecake is classic, the tiramisù
nothing short of benchmark, and the luscious lemon cake with toasted coconut
and mango purée positively seductive. I Cavallini Ristorante also sports
a compact, reasonably priced wine list, as well as a very nice selection of
dessert wines, ports, sherries, cognacs, and single malt scotches.
The Lawrenceville Inn is a labor of love on the part
of proprietors Jonathan and Elizabeth Hunt, who purchased the 1892 former
farmhouse in August 2001 and spent the next two years carefully restoring the
physical plant from attic to basement. From its inception in 2003, this lovely
restaurant has always enjoyed the reputation of serving up sophisticated
contemporary American cuisine in a stylishly rustic historic setting. But since
his arrival in mid June (2005), Le Clere English, the current power behind the
stove, has succeeded in taking the cuisine one step beyond in a very short
period of time. He seems to understand intuitively the subtleties of culinary
engagement, as his seasonally-inspired offerings are as scrupulously prepared
as they are attractively presented. Preludes include a silkily seductive seared
foie gras in the company of an alluring array of sautéed Terhune apples
and cider gelée and wonderful wild mushroom risotto imbued with touches
of aged Parmesan cheese. And entrées continue the kitchen's winning ways: a
tumultuously flavorful New Zealand sirloin served with an incomparable sauce piquante;
Nieman Ranch double pork chop pillowed on a rich vegetable gratin and finished
with a provocative cranberry jus; and a special seared haddock set on a
seabed of leek and eggplant ragoût and circumscribed by three scrumptious
deep-fried haddock-potato dumplings. Among the desserts, the decadent dark
chocolate terrine with an equally opulent peanut butter sauce is a standout. BYOB.
Matt McPherson and Matthew Green, former roommates at the
CIA, have combined their considerable talents to significantly raise the bar
for fine dining in the Hunterdon County area. Mr. McPherson likes to refer to
their culinary venture as an "American chophouse." This is, indeed, an
exceedingly accurate description, as the cuisine is reassuringly and
restoratively robust, yet decidedly sophisticated in both preparation and
presentation; and the food, as you would surmise from the restaurant's moniker,
also emphasizes the chefs' extraordinary expertise at the grill. Soups hold a
prominent place among the starters, and as there is always a triptych of
possibilities on the printed menu, diners are given opportunity to sample mini
portions of all three. Preludes of a more substantive nature include pumpkin
ravioli with sage brown butter sauce, wild mushroom tart in the company of
Maytag blue cheese and port wine reduction, and grilled Camembert embellished
with red raspberry preserves. When it comes to entrées, you can't go wrong with
the grilled filet mignon with Bordelaise sauce or grilled "white marble" pork
tenderloin companied by an apple cider glaze. And treasures of the sea are just
as superb: a luscious salmon filet with stone-ground mustard beurre blanc,
honey-marinated swordfish, or grilled whole fish of the day. Desserts, all made
on the premises, are worth both the additional calories and added expenditure.
Kudos to the chefs! BYOB.
Step into Panico's and you take a step back in time.
This is what fine restaurant dining used to be -- and should be again. There's a
definitive touch of elegance here: soft, subdued lighting, mirrored walls, rich
hues of salmon and pecan, a single rose gracing each table. And the charmingly
retro ambiance is perfectly complemented by the Old World civility of maître d'
Jose Solano and members of his staff. When it comes to the cuisine, executive
chef Nestor Ramos ably carries on the restaurant's tradition of bringing out
the very best in the freshest possible ingredients. Appetizers include such
innovative dishes as carpaccio of portabello mushroom; eggplant Napoleon with
homemade mozzarella cheese, tincture of basil and splash of aged balsamic
vinegar; or winning salad of arugula and prosciutto embellished with crumbles
of blue cheese and an assertive red wine vinaigrette. Entrées are rustic and
robust yet beautifully prepared and presented. I would highly recommend the
special branzino -- a whole Mediterranean sea bass that is grilled, roasted, and
dexterously filleted at table -- as well as the benchmark osso buco braised in
celery, carrots, onions, and white wine and pillowed on a bed of orzo. For
dessert, try the tiramisù or incredible Strudel alle Fragole, phyllo
dough filled with strawberries, mascarpone, ricotta, and embellishments of
vanilla gelato and caramel sauce... and don't forget to check out the
award-winning wine list. For that special occasion -- or any
occasion -- this fine restaurant remains the choice of knowledgeable and
discriminating diners.
Trap Rock is a microbrewery and, as such, turns out
some first-rate handcrafted ales and lagers. It also sports a first-rate wine
list, so lovers of the fruit of the vine need not despair. In addition, the
bustling, convivial bar features an intriguing prospectus of martinis, ports,
scotches, and liqueurs. Given the libationary high jinks, you could easily
assume that this popular establishment's cuisine might be something of an
afterthought. But this is surely not the case, as Chef Josh Fryer offers outstanding
New American fare with provocative French and Asian subtitles. Among the
appetizers, gifts from the sea play a leading role. And the two stars of the
show are undoubtedly the seafood trio -- spicy salmon roll, tuna tartar, and
jumbo lump crab and cucumber salad -- and the incredible lobster spring rolls presented
with a tempting trio of spicy mustard, chili-lime marmalade, and coconut curry
dipping sauces. And entrées are just as beguiling. The grilled pork loin is
moist and meaty, reclines on a robust white bean and chorizo ragoût, and is consummated
with a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil; the pan-seared salmon arrives replete
with wild mushrooms, black lentils, and truffle spinach; and the pepper-crusted
rare tuna is accompanied by a sweet corn risotto, asparagus, and finished with
a roasted red pepper vinaigrette. Desserts also do not disappoint. A personal
favorite is the incomparably rich inside out German chocolate cake garnished
with Heath Bar ice cream on a crisp coconut tuile, and finished with a
fabulous toasted coconut anglaise. The Trap Rock Restaurant and Brewery
also offers a limited casual menu in the bar/lounge. And the Vermont cheddar
burger and fish and chips -- ale-battered cod, pommes frites, chipotle
slaw, and roasted onion tartar sauce -- are both worth the price of admission.