New Jersey Restaurant Review
Thommy G's
354 High Street
Burlington, Burlington County, New Jersey
(609) 239-8133
By The Artful Diner
Special to New Jersey Online
2/14/00
Open only since June of '99, and located in the former Mechanics Bank at the corner of High and Broad Streets, Thommy G's (named in honor of Chef Thomas Geneviva) is surely a welcome addition to the Burlington dining scene. Decidedly upscale, and headlining hearty Italian fare with New Orleans flair, the food is as robust and satisfying as the ambiance is congenial. Add owner Michael Corbi, Jr., a most gracious host, a wait staff that understands its appointed role in the ultimate scheme of things, and you have a restaurant that promises -- and delivers -- a most rewarding evening at table.
The high-ceilinged dining area is quite spacious, and this attribute has been utilized to full advantage. The tables are large and well-spaced, affording servers sufficient room to go about their business. And the attractive bar, which occupies nearly the entire length of the interior wall, adds yet another touch of class to the already civilized setting. If reservations are made in advance, couples, or parties of four seeking a bit more privacy (and who are not prone to claustrophobia), may even enjoy their repast in the vault.
The wine list here is quite nice and is an excellent complement to the cuisine. Among the reds, the 1993 Nando Barolo ($35.00) is still a bit rough around the edges but most enjoyable; and the crisp, refreshing 1998 Dry Creek Fume Blanc ($20.00) is a reasonably priced standout among the whites. Recommended wines by the glass include: Talus Merlot and Chardonnay (both $5.25), Cavit Pinot Grigio and Straccali Chianti (both $5.00), and the ubiquitous Kendall-Jackson Chardonnay ($6.25).
To start things off, I would urge you to give the escarole soup ($5.95) a try. A heady chicken stock is embellished with bits of escarole, garlic, tomatoes, tiny meatballs, and freshly grated Parmesan cheese. The result is top-notch. The pasta e fagioli, that classic Italian zuppa featuring pasta and beans, is also right on target.
A diminutive salad of assorted greens, grape tomatoes, and a lively Italian vinaigrette is included with your entree... But you may wish to take a bye in order to sample some of the other more interesting options. The Michelini ($7.50), for example, provides a tasty conglomeration of roasted peppers, Romano cheese, sliced black olives, olive oil and fresh basil leaves. Add slices of perfectly prepared garlic bread and you have a most edifying prelude. The Angelini ($7.50) combines slices of prosciutto and arugula tossed with a tangy balsamic dressing and crowned with a sprinkling of freshly grated Parmesan cheese.
Among the antipasti, shellfish are quite conspicuous, and all are worthy contenders. The clams Calabrese ($7.95) are tender littlenecks topped with bacon and kissed by the broiler's gentle flame; and the mussels alla Neapolitan ($8.95) arrive swimming in a sweet marinara sauce. For those not particularly fond of bivalves, the bruschetta ($6.95/$8.95 with prosciutto) is yet another delicious possibility.
When it comes to entrees, all the usual suspects are present and accounted for -- but even these more familiar offerings are far from ordinary. The veal saltimbocca ($22.95), for instance, is significantly enhanced with the addition of a light and luscious tomato lemon sauce. And the veal Tomas ($24.95), a 12-ounce center-cut veal chop, is broiled to absolute perfection, smothered with mushrooms, and then finished with a hale 'n' hearty Jack Daniels sauce. The chicken Palermo ($16.95) is a succulent boneless breast topped with prosciutto, sharp provolone, roasted red and yellow peppers, and adorned with a delicate white wine sauce. For red meat lovers, there is always the spicy, salty, seasoning-encrusted Cecilia ($25.95), a rousing alternative to your typical run-of-the-mill filet mignon.
Fruitti de mare is also very much in evidence among the main courses. The salmon Neapolitan ($21.95) is a delicious filet that is spiffed up with chopped fresh tomatoes, black olives, capers and spinach in a lovely white wine sauce. The Chilean sea bass ($20.95) is wrapped in a spicy crust with prosciutto, then pan seared and consummated with a Cointreau sauce. Both are impeccably prepared. Those who want to have it all, however, should not pass up the incredible Cioppino La Fite ($26.95), a yummy amalgam of lobster, shrimp, clams, mussels, scallops, calamari, crawfish, and andouille sausage served up in a spicy marinara over a bed of linguine. A positive feast!
Patrons with a preference for pasta, and who also desire to sample the chef's predilection for New Orleans cuisine, should go for the linguine and crawfish swimming in a very spicy Cajun cream sauce ($16.95). The crab and crawfish manicotti ($16.95) is another savory option. Sweet chunks of crab and crawfish are tucked into a manicotti shell and finished with an invigorating red vodka sauce.
Desserts are the only possible letdown here. I say this because the majority are imported from Italy by Bindi and are a miracle of modern cryogenics. Are they acceptable? Yes... but nothing beats homemade in my book. So make certain you query your server in this matter, as there are always several made on the premises. The rum raisin rice pudding pudding served in a pizzelle cup ($5.50) is a fitting closure to any meal; and the ice cream alla "Ummms" ($4.00), from the shop just down the street, is also quite good. Coffee ($2.00) and espresso ($2.50 single/$3.50 double) are both up to the mark. There are also a bevy of after-dinner libations to tickle your fancy.
Whatever the occasion, Thommy G's does not disappoint. You will find this attractive restaurant a most gratifying and pleasant dining experience.
Cuisine: Italian fare with New Orleans flair
Hours: Lunch: Tues - Sat, 11:30 a.m. - 3:00 p.m.; Dinner: Tues - Thurs, 5:00 p.m. - 10:00 p.m.; Fri - Sat, 5:00 p.m. - 11:00 p.m.; Sun, Dinner only, 4:00 p.m. - 9:00 p.m.; Bar is open Tues - Sat, 11:30 a.m. - 2:00 a.m.; CLOSED MONDAY
Credit Cards: All major
Attire: Sharp casual
Smoking: Permitted at the bar only
Reservations: Recommended
Parking: Ample street parking and nearby municipal lots
Alcohol: License
Price: Moderate/Expensive
Handicapped Accessible: Yes
