Ensconced in the Hilton Hotel, Spencer's is part of a mini-chain of steakhouses with branches in Spokane and Seattle. The décor is typical of this genre of eatery: high-backed booths, masculine mahogany paneled walls, and an equally testosterone-imbued cigar-friendly bar/lounge. Just one word of admonition... The Insiders' Guide to Salt Lake City calls the atmosphere cozy and "just perfect for a quiet meal." Cozy the ambiance may be, but it is far from quiet. On any night of week, this joint really jumps. Large, boisterous parties are omnipresent (including our own troop of eleven on a Wednesday evening), and the bustling environment and elevated noise level do not make this restaurant the ideal venue for a romantic tête-à-tête.
That being said, however, you will undoubtedly enjoy dining here. The surroundings are quite comfortable, the service is professional and first-rate, and the cuisine - with an emphasis on prime beef - is, for the most part, right on target.
An excellent way to begin your meal is with the calamari. Lightly breaded and surprisingly tender, a bevy of diminutive rings is accompanied by classic cocktail sauce. On the other hand, who can resist the temptation of digging into a huge portobello mushroom cap topped with spinach and melted cheese. A topping of melted cheese also figures prominently in the broiled slices of meaty beefsteak tomatoes surrounded by an ingratiating pool of balsamic vinaigrette. All three appetizers are highly recommended.
Patrons are also treated to a complimentary generic salad. You may, however, elect to upgrade your greenery... and it is certainly worth the small surcharge to do so. The Greek salad is just okay, but the Caesar and the iceberg with blue cheese are both quite good.
When it comes to entrées, if you happen not to be in the mood for red meat, there are a number of alternative ways to go. The simply grilled salmon is particularly noteworthy, ditto the grilled vegetable pasta, grilled prawns on linguini, and the luscious veal chop. With all due respect, however, since beef is the name of the game here, it is always better to swim with the tide than against it.
...And the star of the show, in my opinion, is clearly the Spencer steak, a 14-ounce rib-eye that is extremely tender and bursting with flavor. A real winner. The New York strip also has a great deal to recommend it, as does the prime rib. The only disappointment of the evening proved to be the filet mignon, which–contra to our server who swore it would cut like butter–turned out to be inexplicably tough and fatty. Of course, if you like your beef on the pampered side, coddled with gentle massages and plenteous amounts of beer, and don't mind paying dearly for it, Spencer's offers its patrons a Kobe beef filet at $79.95. It's your call.
Side dishes are an important part of any steakhouse's repertoire, and here they are excellent. Go for the garlic smashed potatoes or the hash browns au gratin (cheese, as you have undoubtedly noted, is big here). The crispy onion curls are completely addictive, and the creamed spinach is right on the money.
Desserts, of course, round up the usual suspects; and, unless you have the appetite of a ravening hyena, are entirely superfluous... The hot cinnamon apple pie has entirely too much spice, and the old-fashioned strawberry shortcake is strictly standard issue. Opt instead for a potent jolt of espresso and digestif or single-malt scotch.
Spencer's also sports a first-rate wine list to complement your meal, as well as some very nice selections by the glass.
All in all, a most satisfying dining experience.
The Artful Diner is a freelance food writer who writes restaurant reviews for nj.com. His latest review can be seen on his nj.com weblog at http://www.nj.com/weblogs/artfuldiner/. An archive of past reviews for New Jersey Online as well as reviews for restaurants around the country and the world can be found on this Web site at http://www.artfuldiner.com/reviews .
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