New Jersey Restaurant Review
Sisters Cafe
Restaurant Now Closed
1321 Third Avenue
Spring Lake, Monmouth County, New Jersey
(732) 449-1909
By The Artful Diner
Special to New Jersey Online
6/26/2000
This three-year-old restaurant could not be more aptly named. The O'Hearn sisters -- Kristine, Marianne, Roxane, Suzanne, and Roxane's husband, Jim -- have fashioned a storefront on Spring Lake's main street into one of the area's most popular dining destinations. The welcome is warm and inviting, the service friendly and casual, and Marianne and Kristine, who handle the cooking chores, continue to beguile their patrons with an exhilarating array of hearty, palate-pleasing possibilities.
Since there is no liquor license here, before settling in at table, you may wish to make a pilgrimage to "The Bottle Shop" just across the street. You will find an outstanding selection of fine vintages; one of the best the Garden State has to offer. So if you're a wine lover, be sure to come early -- as many of Sisters' customers do -- in order to leave plenty of time for browsing before din-din.
Having collected your oenological treasure(s), you're now ready to get down to the serious -- and most pleasurable -- business of eating. The menu is divided into starters, appetizers, and entrees... but don't let that throw you, as the first two categories cover the same delectable preparatory ground. The bill of fare also changes weekly, so a few of my recommendations may not be available at the time of your visit.
When it comes to preludes, I have always been an ardent fan of Prince Edward Island mussels. At Sisters they are steamed to rosy, succulent perfection with an intoxicating broth of rice wine, lemon grass, ginger, garlic, and scallions ($10.00). Another favorite is the puff pastry tart composed of French Brie and an apple, grape & onion confit garnished with balsamic syrup ($8.00). A small portion of greenery tossed with a light vinaigrette adds not only a delightful decorative touch, but also provides the proper acidic foil for the tart's sweetness.
Salads are likewise excellent choices. A colorful mixture of lettuces with Spanish sherry vinaigrette ($6.00) is dressed up with a variety of accoutrements. On one occasion, they arrived awash with garlic croutons, olives, grapes and feta cheese; on another, with raspberries, pine nuts and aged provolone. The spinach salad ($7.00) also comes in an assortment of delicious guises. On our first visit, spruced up with roasted beets, blood oranges, sweet walnuts, Maytag blue cheese, and a balsamic dressing; on our second sojourn, the dressing was mustard, the embellishments portabellos, smoked bacon, and sweet pistachios.
The chefs also do wonderful things with asparagus... Like superbly grilled spears in concert with fingerling potatoes, hazelnut-encrusted goat cheese, and a yummy mustard vinaigrette ($9.00). Or, perhaps, accompanied by strips of warm roasted red pepper, blood oranges, tapenade toasts and mozzarella ($8.00). An absolutely fabulous blend of tastes and textures... Only, in this case, some of the kitchen's good work was obviated by spears that were entirely too thick, tough and stringy.
Like their predecessors, entrees present diners with a variety of praiseworthy prospects. Among finny creatures, halibut puts in frequent guest appearances. The first sampling was encrusted with horseradish and panko (coarsely textured unseasoned Japanese breadcrumbs) and set atop a mouthwatering mound of Yukon gold garlic mashed potatoes ($17.00). Tender baby bok choy and a mirin-soy broth rounded out this exotic and delicious presentation. On another occasion, this lovely denizen of the deep exhibited a slightly different Oriental flair: sesame encrusted and accompanied by a sticky rice cake, julienne veggies, and finished with a perky scallion-coconut milk coulis ($17.00).
Seafooders will also appreciate the swordfish ($19.00). It is exquisitely grilled, presented with tender fingerling potatoes, cherry tomatoes & spinach, and finished with a sweet corn and lobster sauce.
Lovers of red meat will be pleased to find that a hefty New York sirloin ($21.00) has apparently taken up permanent residence on Sisters' menu. It may be jazzed up with a green peppercorn sauce or, perhaps, a Chinese five-spice reduction. But whether decked out in sartorial finery or more casually attired, rest assured that it will be grilled to your liking. The marinated New Zealand loin of lamb ($23.00) is also grilled and receives an enthusiastic kick from a hedonistic Merlot-Dijon reduction and an admirable cast of supporting players. On one evening, a comforting dune of goat cheese whipped potatoes and broccoli rabe laced with garlic; on another, Israeli cous-cous, snap peas and braised baby fennel.
And those with a preference for pasta ($15.00) will always encounter some intriguing presentation to tickle their fancy. The spinach papparadelle, for instance, is combined with ratatouille veggies & herbed fresh ricotta, and is topped off with a charred tomato coulis and pesto drizzle. A most memorable marriage of ingratiating flavors. Even better, though, are the homemade artichoke and black pepper raviolis stuffed with feta cheese. A dusting of Parmesan, a sprinkling of arugula, and an Italian yellow tomato salsa add the appropriate finishing touch.
Desserts ($6.00) are an absolute must here, so be sure to save room. All have a homespun feel about them, but there are still enough surprises to keep your taste buds standing at attention. The milk chocolate/peanut butter creme brulee -- a marvelous new wrinkle on an old culinary cliche -- is an artery clogger if every there was one... but so deliriously decadent that you really don't care. The bread pudding is a luscious island surrounded by a sea of Cognac anglaise, and the apple/pear/berry crisp luxuriates in a heavenly vanilla sauce. After succumbing to temptation, conclude your evening with a strong cup of freshly brewed coffee ($1.00) or potent espresso ($1.75).
Just one final piece of advice... Sisters Cafe tends to seat larger parties in the rear of the establishment. And since nothing can be more disconcerting than to have an intimate dinner a deux interrupted by the arrival of an unruly mob, you would do well to stake your claim to a table in the front dining area or the section along the banquette just beyond it. You may witness more comings and goings, but the atmosphere will be decidedly less boisterous.
Cuisine: New American
Hours: Lunch: Tues - Fri, 11:00 a.m. - 3:00 p.m.; Sat, 11:30 a.m. - 3:00 p.m.; Dinner: Tues - Thurs, 5:30 p.m. - 9:00 p.m.; Fri & Sat, 5:30 p.m. - 10:00 p.m.; Breakfast: Sat & Sun, 8:00 a.m. - 11:00 a.m.; Sunday Brunch: 11:00 a.m. - 2:00 p.m.; CLOSED MONDAY
Credit Cards: MC, V
Attire: Casual
Smoking: Smoking is not permitted in the restaurant.
Reservations: Essential
Parking: Ample street parking
Alcohol: BYOB
Price: Moderate
Handicapped Accessible: Wheelchair access is difficult, and the restrooms are several steps up.
