Rivah Bistro
Restaurant Closed Shortly After Visit.
1417 East Carry Street
Richmond, Virginia
(804) 344-8222
www.rivahbistro.com
When you blow into town on a quiet Sunday evening, the
dining possibilities can be somewhat limited. This is true of Richmond as it is
of many other communities both large and small. So after a spirited shuffling
through a list of likely prospects -- and a number of conversations with the
Jefferson Hotel's concierge -- we settled on Rivah Bistro, a
Moroccan/French eatery that had been voted one of the city's best new
restaurants in 2002 by Richmond magazine.
A dark, cozy bar area, exposed brick walls, and framed
French posters highlight the ambiance. Service, though, proved to be something
of an oddity. On the one hand, the young woman behind the bar was the soul of
hospitality. Not only was she a pleasant conversationalist, she also graciously
offered glasses of water to a number of people who were waiting for the
remainder of their party but did not care to imbibe. Our waiter, on the other
hand, struck us as a bit on the non compos mentis side, slow on the
uptake and even slower in checking in at our table. He did, however, appear to
warm to the task and get himself in gear as the evening progressed.
Given our waiter's initial semi-catatonic approach to his
duties, it was only natural that we might begin to entertain certain doubts
about the quality of the cuisine. But we needn't have worried, as the kitchen --
even on an absolutely dead Sunday night when the regular chef was probably at
home perched in front of the TV with a cold one -- appeared to be at the top of
its game.
Once our waiter got around to it, the meal began on a high
note: crusty French bread accompanied by a ramekin of butter presented at just
the proper temperature. Thus assuaged, we could turn our attention to the menu,
a reasonably compact document sporting a nice balance of straightforward French
and intriguing Moroccan specialties...
Appetizers ($7.95), for example, include escargots, sea
scallops grilled with corn salsa and micro greens, country pâté, Moroccan merguez
-- lamb sausage delivered with fresh salsa and red wine sauce -- and vegetable
terrine. Entrées weigh in with such intriguing possibilities as couscous royal
with chicken ($15.95) or merguez sausage ($16.95) or lamb ($18.95),
linguini Basilique with fresh basil and tomatoes ($12.95), chicken au
citron ($16.95) -- Moroccan-style chicken with green olives, fresh lemons,
potatoes, and saffron sauce -- and kebab royal ($19.95), marinated tenderloin
brochette grilled with garlic, fresh herbs, and almonds.
Our preferences on this particular evening, however, ran a
slightly different route. My wife started things off with the mussels mariniére
($7.95). The bivalves were plump and succulent and came swimming in an
exemplary white wine broth awash with capers and chopped tomatoes. Indeed, this
is the caliber of elixir -- fresh and invigorating rather than murky and
primordial -- that demands to be consumed by any means possible, by the spoonful
or sopped up with the final remnants of that delicious French bread.
My spinach salad ($8.95), a special of the evening, was
equally impressive. Pristine, well-trimmed leaves were gently tossed with an
extraordinarily flavorful balsamic vinaigrette and embellished with squiggles
of creamy goat cheese, apple slices, black olives, and walnuts. The superior
quality of the components was beyond reproach.
Entrées, as noted above, also cover some interesting
gastronomic ground... but our adventures remained firmly planted in the
piscatorial realm. The farm-raised tilapia ($16.95), not a particularly
exciting representative of Davy Jones' locker, received a new lease on life
from a tiara of chopped capers and cornichons and a rich and flavorful beurre
blanc. Homey mashed potatoes and a medley of fresh green beans and carrots
provided suitable accompaniments.
The salmon d'Alsace ($17.95) also pushed all the right
buttons. Not only was the filet the picture of good health, but also
beautifully pan-seared to exacting specifications, which, in my case, means
cooked through rather than translucent at the center. It was then placed atop a
seabed of diced fingerling potatoes, sautéed spinach, and cherry tomatoes.
Superlative in every respect.
For dessert ($6.95), we shared a first-rate cherry
cheesecake repleted with a delicious top and bottom crust and splash of cherry
sauce. Other possibilities include chocolate mousse, crème caramel, and crème
brûlée, all made in house. The restaurant also boasts potent hits of
espresso and a moderately interesting wine list with some very nice choices
available by the glass.
Upon crossing the threshold, Rivah Bistro may strike
you as bit on the funky side... but take heart. The quality of the cuisine more
than compensates for any perceived shortcomings in either the décor or service.
The Artful Diner
December 2004
The Artful Diner writes restaurant reviews for nj.com. His most current review can be seen at http://www.nj.com/dining . An archive of past reviews for New Jersey Online as well as reviews for restaurants around the country and the world can be found on this Web site at http://www.artfuldiner.com/reviews .
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