Ristorante Verona
288 Lancaster Avenue
Frazer, Pennsylvania
(610) 644-7464
Rocco Desiderio, who has owned dining establishments in New
York City and New Jersey, is a seasoned restaurateur. And his experience is
quite evident. At his latest culinary venture - Ristorante Verona,
located in the Shops of Knob Hill in Frazer - the redoubtable and spiffily
attired Mr. Desiderio is always on hand to make certain that your evening (or
afternoon) at table is a pleasant one.
The interior of his establishment, which is divided into
three intimate dining alcoves, is dressed up in eye-catching brushed brunt
orange walls. There's a touch of casual elegance here, sophisticated but not at
all intimidating.
And the cuisine, courtesy of Chef Fabrizio Spina, fits right
in, as it exudes a refined rusticity that succeeds in satisfying the soul as
well as placating the palate. Homey salads, for example, make splendid opening
moves. The Caesar ($5.95) beguiles with pristinely fresh torn leaves of
romaine, crunchy, oven-baked croutons, Parmesan cheese, and an invigorating
homemade dressing with just enough zip to tantalize your delicate taste buds.
The roasted eggplant salad ($8.95) is another excellent starter. Discs of fresh
mozzarella are pillowed on meaty tomato slices and interspersed with perfectly
grilled eggplant segments. A sprinkling of olive oil and dash of Italian herbs
add appropriate finishing touches.
Other appetizers include exceedingly tender calamari
fritti served up with a spicy marinara sauce ($7.95) and a very nice
miniature crab cake ($9.95). There is more mashed potato filler here than jumbo
crabmeat, but the presentation is highly recommended nonetheless; and the rich
lobster brandy sauce adds a deliciously decadent consummating note.
My favorite among the starters, though, is one of the daily
specials: broccoli rabe with sweet Italian sausage ($9.95). The epicenter of
greenery is just the right texture, firm but not chewy, and the color is a
vibrant green. It is flanked by the sausage, savory and succulent, split
lengthwise.
Among the pasta dishes, I am particularly fond of the
orecchiette - "little ears" - ($12.95). The pasta is cooked to a perfect al
dente, garnished with fresh broccoli florets and tender chunks of sautéed
chicken breast, and finished with a touch of garlic and olive oil. The homemade
potato gnocchi with a rich tomato sauce ($12.95) is also quite good, albeit a
tad on the doughy side. For more rustic renditions, be sure to try the penne
Bolognese ($12.95) or the spaghetti con polpette ($12.95), fresh pasta
enhanced with a generous apportionment of meatballs.
Regular highly recommended entrées include a tender, juicy
veal chop crowned with a plethora of sautéed mushrooms and onions (Market
Price) and cut-like-butter textured 8-ounce filet basking in a luscious red
wine demi-glace reduction ($26.95); although the latter was companioned
by vegetables that tasted as if they'd spent considerable time skinny-dipping
in the Great Salt lake.
Piscatorial possibilities, usually offered as nightly specials,
are also worthy of consideration. The two sampled, however, -- flounder and
tilapia - were recited without tariffs and, despite the impeccable good health
and quality of presentation, seemed a bit pricey at $26.95. The former, cooked
up francese - white wine sauce tinctured with lemon - was a bit on the viscous
side; but the latter, prepared livornese - "leghorn-style" with white wine,
olive oil, capers, chopped garlic, tomatoes, and parsley - was right on the
money.
Desserts ($5.95) offer a nice finishing touch to your
evening at table. The Italian rum cake is quite good, ditto the tiramisù and
amaretto cake; and a potent jolt of espresso ($2.50) makes a most suitable
companion.
If you can't make dinner, be sure to stop by for lunch, which
is available Monday through Friday, 11:00 a.m. - 2:30 p.m.
February 2006
The Artful Diner
The Artful Diner is the restaurant reviewer for nj.com. His most current review can be seen at http://www.nj.com/dining . An archive of past reviews for New Jersey Online as well as reviews for restaurants around the country and the world can be found on this Web site at http://www.artfuldiner.com/reviews .
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