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More German Restaurant Reviews

Prinz Myshkin
Hackenstrasse 2, Munich

In a city dominated by pork, veal, and various incarnations of wurst, a vegetarian restaurant would appear to be something of a culinary oxymoron. Be that as it may, Prinz Myshkin has not only survived but prospered during the past two decades; and it continues to lure Bavarians and international visitors alike with its macrobiotic specialties, soups, casseroles, pizzas, and Indian & Thai vegetarian selections.

The restaurant itself is bright and cheery... in a constant whirlpool of motion. And, right from the start, the experience can be rather off-putting. At lunch, for example, there is no host/hostess to greet and seat you. The unsuspecting patron is left to his/her own devices to snare a table... and sometimes that isn't an easy task, especially when the joint is jumping -- which is most of the time. Couple this with the fact that diners here are a peripatetic lot -- table hopping at will to venues they consider more desirable, those near the large windows at the front of the restaurant, for instance -- and you have a recipe for culinary confusion.

But on to the food... It is good; however, on no account would I consider it exceptional.  And, during the height of the lunch and dinner rush, the kitchen has been known to move along like a herd of turtles.

During a luncheon sojourn, most diners appeared to be chowing down the daily special, a ½ stuffed pepper (5,50€). My wife ordered the potato gnocchi topped with a light tomato sauce (7,90€). The portion size was quite ample, as were most. Taste-wise it was merely OK... and not terribly attractive to the eye. My samosas (11,20€) were huge and slightly on the bland and dry side. A spicy julienne of carrots and cooling raita sauce were nice counterpoising touches. Once again, not bad but hardly outstanding.

Your best bet for a casual meal here appears to be the pizza -- fried oysters and blue cheese (10,20€); arugula, mozzarella, and Parmesan (10,40€); tomatoes, spinach, and feta cheese (9,50€) -- and soups; perhaps tomato-lentil (5,10€) or carrot-curry (5,10€).

The restaurant also serves wine and beer -- a decent glass of the house Riesling goes for 3,60€ -- and you would do well to finish things off with a potent jolt of espresso (2,20€).

Several concluding notes to bear in mind:

1) I am of German descent and have visited the country more times than I can count; and I can tell you firsthand that this is not a typical Bavarian restaurant by any stretch of the imagination. Without being derogatory in any way, let me simply say the clientele here reminds me of the gang I run into shopping at Whole Foods. I'll leave the rest to your imagination.

2) Also, unlike most German restaurants, this is not the type of establishment that is conducive to a quiet romantic dinner or long lingering conversations over lunchtime wine and/or espresso. I don't mean that the restaurant is unfriendly; it's just that it strikes me as the type of place where people drop in on the way from here to there. A dining destination it is not.  

3) Finally, if you want to avoid the crowds, your best bet is to come for a late lunch or early dinner. The food isn't exactly thrilling, but it is well-prepared and certainly reasonably priced. And, when you consider the beating your hard-earned dollar is taking at the hands of the euro, this is not a minor consideration

The Artful Diner
November 2007

The Artful Diner is an independent, freelance food writer.  His latest review and an archive of past reviews for restaurants around the country and the world can be found on this site on the REVIEWS page.

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