Preprandial Potions

DEAD RIVER PUB – Inn at Somerset Hills, 80 Allen Road, Basking Ridge, www.theinnatsomersethills.com/pub.html – This clubby, countrified eatery seems to have everything going for it. . . The dining room is comfortably carpeted and comes replete with stone fireplace and homey decorative touches. The menu features not only dinner entrées but also a variety of salads and sandwiches for those with less hearty appetites. Unfortunately, consistency with regard to both food and service has always been – and continues to be – a fly in the ointment. If you happen to be staying at the inn on business, feel free to settle in at the bar for a pre-dinner libation. . . but seek sustenance elsewhere. 3 West and Grappa, both just a stone's throw away, are two superior establishments that come immediately to mind.

DINALLO'S – 259 Johnson Avenue, River Edge – Located just off raucous Route 4, this convivial restaurant/watering hole has been a personal fave for many years. At the lively happy hour, expect to rub eyeballs with Ms. Motorcycle (whose hefty Harley is parked right outside the front door), the chatty bartender whose wardrobe is obviously selected to accentuate her pleasing bodily proportions. Also present and accounted for are nurses from Hackensack University Medical Center, upper middle management types trying to hit on their administrative professionals (Am I being politically correct here?), administrative professionals trying to hit on their bosses, and illustrious representatives of the local waste management corporation. If you decide to stay for dinner, the retro Italian presentations won't set any new culinary standards, but the ingredients are extremely fresh, generally well prepared, and they are served up in soul-satisfying portions at moderate tariffs. Full review: www.artfuldiner.com/dinallos.html.

DISH, 40 Brighton Avenue, Passaic, www.dish-nj.com – Dish is a bit of a contradiction. . . The restaurant is situated in a decidedly tacky neighborhood at the Clifton border, but the exterior of the building is quite attractive, well-maintained, and exudes infinitely more class than its humble surroundings. The interior is dark and supper-clubish, retro of disposition and minimalist of décor. You either love it or hate it. The bar/lounge is dark and romantic, a provocative venue in which to enjoy pre or postprandial libations. Should you decide to dine here, be advised that the food, like the ambiance, prompts a host of ambivalent emotions. For while appetizers and desserts are chic and sumptuously sophisticated, entrées occasionally fall short of the mark. Full review: www.artfuldiner.com/dish.html.

DORIS & ED'S – 348 Shore Drive, Highlands, www.dorisandeds.com – For over a quarter of a century, owner Jim Filip has presided over the Garden State's quintessential seafood restaurant. And for the past fifteen years, executive chef Russell Dare has been the power behind the stove. The restaurant boasts a menu of piscatorial classics as well as more innovative offerings, an award-winning wine list, and a stunning view of Sandy Hook and the New York skyline. The diminutive bar is a most congenial spot to enjoy a dry martini or one of the excellent vintage selections available by the glass. An absolute must for seafood lovers.

EBBITT ROOM, THE – Virginia Hotel, 25 Jackson Street, Cape May, www.virginiahotel.com – There are many culinary nooks for lovers in this beautiful Victorian community, but none so enchantingly romantic as the Ebbitt Room. Freshly cut flowers and live piano music underscore the sophisticated elegance of the handsomely restored dining area. And the adjacent fireplace lounge is the ideal venue for preprandial libations. Once sipping contentedly, however, you will surely want to stay for dinner, as executive chef Andrew J. Carthy's cuisine is every bit the equal of the ambiance. Mr. Carthy is clearly of the "less is more" school of creative American cookery, and his subtle integration of ingredients succeeds in challenging the palate without overwhelming it. The Ebbitt Room is a winner in every respect.

EGGIMANN'S TAVERN – 2031 Route 71, Spring Lake – If you're heading to a BYOB in the area – Whispers or Sisters Café in Spring Lake or Brandl in Belmar, for instance – this neighborhood happy-tappy is a great spot to wet your whistle and jumpstart your appetite. A gregarious group of locals are in residence here, watching a golf tournament or a leg of the Triple Crown and devouring complimentary popcorn and crackers & cheese spread. And though puffers are very much in evidence, your lungs may rest easy as the "Smoke Eaters" do an excellent job of filtering the air. Keep your libationary requests fairly simple and the bartender will be happy to oblige. The food is straightforward American fare and "pub grub" (except when Oktoberfest is in full swing) served up in plenteous portions at inexpensive to moderate tariffs.

ESTY STREET, 86 Spring Valley Road, Park Ridge, www.estystreet.com – You're going to like Esty Street. . . the dark wood paneling awash with a mélange of mirrors, the wall of sparklingly clean windows, the crisp white napery. And while proprietor Scott Tremble, dining room manager Larry Dunlap, and a team of veteran servers keep you happy at the front of the house, executive chef Jack Mistretta will assuage your appetite with his substantive yet stylish American cuisine. But before settling in at table, be sure to make a stop at the diminutive bar and enjoy a cocktail or glass of wine. Although located a bit off the beaten track, this fine establishment continues to parlay exceptional cuisine, impeccably professional service, and comfortable, pleasant surroundings into a totally beguiling dining experience. Full review: www.artfuldiner.com/estystreet.html.

FRENCHTOWN INN, THE – 7 Bridge Street, Frenchtown, www.frenchtowninn.com – After a strenuous day of shopping or sightseeing in this quiet Hunterdon County hamlet, you and your spouse/significant other may wish to join couples young and old in the muted glow of one of the Frenchtown Inn's candlelit dining rooms. In point of fact, this enticing establishment has become one of the Garden State's most popular dining destinations for those in search of a quixotic and gastronomic tête-à-tête. Exposed brick walls, fireplaces, and accoutrements appropriately rustic complete the scenario. The equally idyllic bar/grill room offers the perfect venue for pre-dinner cocktails or wine selections by the glass. As jeans are not permitted in the dining rooms, if you don't feel like donning your sartorial finery, you may also chow down here on more casual fare or move on to another destination. Full review: www.artfuldiner.com/frenchtowninn.html.

THE FROG AND THE PEACH – 29 Dennis Street, New Brunswick, www.frogandpeach.com – Whether dropping by for dinner or just dropping by, you're sure to be charmed by this venerable eatery's chic post-industrial décor, an interesting amalgam of bustling yet decidedly romantic nooks and crannies. And the beautifully appointed oak bar will undoubtedly be your first port-of-call. You may select a variety of vintages by the glass or choose a bottle from the award-winning wine list. Tariffs are a bit on the pricey side, but there are still some wonderful enological treasures to be had. Should you decide to take your sustenance here, you will find Chef Bruce Lefebvre's New American cuisine as comfortable as it is creative. Full review: www.artfuldiner.com/frogandpeach.html.

FROMAGERIE, 26 Ridge Road, Rumson, www.fromagerierestaurant.com – Under the proprietorship of Hubert and Marcus Peter, restaurant Fromagerie, now entering its thirty-second year, continues its long and illustrious run as one of New Jersey's premiere dining destinations. Refreshingly absent is the usual dose of glitz and glitter or the oppressively somber surroundings indigenous to many temples of haute cuisine. The rustic chalet-style interior, replete with a lively bar, provides the perfect venue for a leisurely libation before dinner or a pleasantly upbeat evening at table. You will find the French comestibles with subtle German subtitles robust yet decidedly refined. If you're planning a special evening à deux, go for the cozy nook adjacent to the first floor dining room, or do your best to snare table 18 in the bar area and hope no one lights up. A truly enchanting evening awaits. Full review: www.artfuldiner.com/fromagerie.html.

GIUMARELLO'S – 329 Haddon Avenue, Westmont – When dining anywhere in the Cherry Hill area, my wife and I always make it a point to pay a call at Giumarello's for a bit of pre-dinner refreshment. The bar/lounge is snazzy and sophisticated, sporting an incredible martini menu along with some first-rate vintage selections available by the glass. And another reason for stopping by is that this worthy establishment has added a nonsmoking section to its bar area, which is actually a separate room, so purists need not fear the second-hand soiling of their lungs. If you decide to stay for diner, and I highly recommend that you do, you will surely find the Northern Italian cuisine to your liking, as proprietors Sam, Jr., and Gian Giumarello cook up a veritable storm in the kitchen. Full review: www.artfuldiner.com/giumarellos.html.

HARVEST MOON INN – 1039 Old York Road, Ringoes, www.harvestmooninn.com – The building that is now home to the Harvest Moon Inn was constructed in 1811 and is considered one of the finest examples of Federalist architecture in the State of New Jersey. But while the restaurant proper hearkens back to another era, the American cuisine, under the watchful eye of chef/proprietor Stanley Novak, is both creative and contemporary. You enter through the tavern, a cozy and softly lit space replete with an attractive bar that provides a most suitable venue for leisurely preprandial libations. And, as this area features large, adequately spaced tables and comfortable Windsor chairs, you may also elect to dine here. A moderately priced "Tavern Menu" is offered Tuesday through Friday and Sunday; the regular menu only on Saturday. Just bear in mind that, with the exception of Saturday evening when the entire restaurant is smoke free, puffing is permitted in this area. Full review: www.artfuldiner.com/harvestmoon.html.

INN AT MILLRACE POND – 313 Johnsonburg Road, Hope, www.innatmillracepond.com – Set on a hillside in the tiny hamlet of Hope, precious few New Jersey restaurants can match the bucolic bliss of the Inn at Millrace Pond. Whether you find yourself attending a conference, enjoying a romantic stay in one of the inn's attractive guestrooms, or just passing through on the way from here to there, this enchanting establishment is always worthy of a stopover. You descend a staircase to the tavern and discover an enormous walk-in fireplace, grain chute, and assorted memorabilia spanning the structure's 180-year history as a working mill. You will also find an impressive wine cellar housed next to the tavern. . . So settle back with an aperitif and consider the enological possibilities. When you're ready to adjourn to the rustic dining room above, Victor Diaz's robust American/Continental fare will surely not disappoint. Full review: www.artfuldiner.com/millracepond.htm.

KAMINSKI'S ALE HOUSE – 1424 Brace Road, Cherry Hill – I mention Kaminski's, not because I'm urging you to run right over, but because it is the quintessential version of the local happy-tappy/sports bar. First of all, it's dark. . . Not subtly or romantically dark. . . Not pleasingly or invitingly dark. Just dark. We're talking pitch black here. So dark, in fact, that you might very easily trip over the easel that has been placed like a booby trap just inside the entranceway. Here, lovingly inscribed in iridescent crayon, are the chef's daily specials, which – if you have even the faintest hint of common sense – you will assiduously avoid. Secondly, both the "pub grub" and the service can be variable. One evening, several years ago, as my wife and I were departing Kaminski's, a man drove into the parking lot and inquired: "Is the food still so bad?" Honestly. It's your call.

LA GRIGLIA – 740 Boulevard, Kenilworth, www.lagriglia.com – This elegant trattoria was the first restaurant I reviewed for New Jersey Online in 1998; and even now, some six years later, it remains a personal favorite. If you happen to be heading for Le Rendez-Vous, the extraordinary BYOB French/Mediterranean bistro just up the road, La Griglia's comfortable bar-lounge is an ideal spot to enjoy a bit of pre-dinner liquid refreshment. On the other hand, once settled in and sipping contentedly, I would strongly urge you to enjoy the excellent piscatorial treasures this lively Italian seafood grill has to offer. Start things off with plump and succulent Prince Edward Island mussels and then move on to a personal fave, the potato-encrusted red snapper with sautéed spinach and fabulous chardonnay beurre blanc sauce. Full review: www.artfuldiner.com/lagriglia.html.

MAHOGANY GRILLE – 142 Main Street, Manasquan – The Mahogany Grille may be located at the Jersey shore, but it is worthy of a gastronomic pilgrimage during any season of the year. True to its namesake, rich, dark wood is very much in evidence, both in the stylish bar area and in the chic dining room accented with hanging Tiffany-style lamps and cushy patterned chairs and banquettes. Charles J. Meyer III, formerly of Fromagerie in Rumson, now holds forth in the kitchen, and his incomparable eclectic cuisine is not to be missed. But even if you are unable to dine here because of pressing prior engagements, do plan to make a stopover at the bar, which opens daily at 4:00 p.m. and offers an exceptionally fine selection of wines. Just one caveat: The restaurant does not accept reservations, so come early! Full review: www.artfuldiner.com/mahoganygrille.html.

MAIN STREET EURO-AMERICAN BISTRO AND BAR, 301 North Harrison Street, Princeton Shopping Center, Princeton, www.mainstreetprinceton.com – Whenever we're dining in the Princeton area, we always make it a point to stop by Main Street for a bit of preprandial refreshment. There are always a dozen or so excellent wines available by the glass, as well as a host of draft microbrews, spirits, aperitifs, cordials, and assorted coffee concoctions to round out the interesting roster of libations. And be sure to say hello to John, the establishment's affable bartender and cordial conversationalist. If you decide to put on the feedbag here, you will find the international bistro fare (which changes monthly) as warm and inviting as the surroundings. My wife and I discovered this charming restaurant quite some time ago, and we have been back on a regular basis ever since. No matter how far afield you may travel in search of a suitable scratch for your culinary itch, you'll always be happy to settle down at table here once again. Full review: www.artfuldiner.com/mainstreet.html.

MARIE NICOLE'S – 9510 Pacific Avenue, Wildwood Crest, www.marienicoles.com – This charming eatery is an elegant Epicurean delight. Rich cherry wood predominates – both at the cozy, diminutive bar and in the equally cozy dining areas – along with burgundy carpeting, cushy, comfortable chairs, and well-spaced, beautifully appointed tables. I've named Marie Nicole's as one of my top ten at the Jersey Shore in both 2002 and 2003. And even when I have reservations elsewhere, once I stop by for a bit of pre-dinner refreshment, it is difficult to tear myself away. The international cuisine, with matters piscatorial taking a lead role, is truly exceptional. Should you be staying anywhere in the area, Marie Nicole's is surely worth a stopover. Exceptional on all counts. Seasonal.

MATTAR'S – Route 517 and Ridge Road, Allamuchy, www.mattars.com – If you happen to find yourself traversing the gently rolling Warren County countryside in search of a safe libationary haven, Mattar's cushy bar/lounge is just the ticket. The establishment is sedate and romantic, boasting dusty-rose walls, plush dark blue carpeting, and soft lighting. The wine list is reasonably interesting and the waiters are tuxedoed. Just one problem. . . the food simply doesn't hit the same high notes as the décor. Should you decide to dine here – and be advised that tariffs are quite heady – be sure to choose those items that require the least amount of culinary hocus-pocus, as many of the appetizers and entrées are hopelessly convoluted. Better still, save your innards any undue distress and drive a few miles down the road to the Inn at Millrace Pond in Hope. Full review: www.artfuldiner.com/mattars.html.

MAUREEN – Atlantic & Schellenger Avenues, Wildwood, www.restaurantmaureen.com – Ensconced in what was the old Midtown Lounge, this dramatically transformed eatery, festooned with artificial palm trees and a giant mirrored martini glass, is proof positive that Wildwood is attempting (and succeeding) to reinvent itself both architecturally and gastronomically. The funky doo-wop décor is carried over into the interior, but the cuisine is anything but retro. Executive chef/proprietor Steve Horn's global offerings are upscale and trendy, and the quality and preparation of ingredients beyond reproach. Even if you can't stay for dinner, stop by for a bit of liquid refreshment at the chic martini bar. Seasonal.

The Artful Diner Diner is a freelance food writer who writes restaurant reviews for nj.com. His latest review can be seen on his nj.com weblog at http://www.nj.com/weblogs/artfuldiner/. An archive of past reviews for nj.com as well as reviews for restaurants around the country and the world can be found on this Web site at http://www.artfuldiner.com/reviews .

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