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The Artful Diner writes restaurant reviews for nj.com. To receive e-mail notification when a new review or article is posted, send a note to artfuldiner@verizon.net.

Preprandial Potions

SALT CREEK GRILLE, 4 Bingham Avenue, Rumson, www.saltcreekgrill.com – Well, there's good news and bad news. . . On the positive side, Salt Creek boasts valet parking, a lovely view of the Navesink River, and youthful and energetic service. Negatively, it has all the earmarks of a semi-upscale, gung ho chain chophouse attempting to impersonate its betters: several siblings in California (and God knows how many more on the drawing board); reservations limited to parties of eight or more; a plethoric variety of squealing, screaming children; and variable vittles. Be that as it may, this is a great spot to stop for a pre-dinner libation, as cozy tables in the bar area provide the best views in the house and a more intimate atmosphere than the deafening and disorderly dining areas. If you decide to throw on the feedbag here, be advised that appetizers and simpler entrées should take precedence over more convoluted comestibles. Full review: www.artfuldiner.com/saltcreekgrille.html.

SCUTTLEBUTT'S PUB, 400 Centre Street, Nutley            Scuttlebutt's isn't your typical neighborhood happy-tappy. True, you can park yourself at the smoky bar, chug down a cold one, have a go at the excellent "pub grub," and take in the convivial cast of local characters. . . but that's only a small part of the story. You really want to settle in the dining room and let chef/proprietor Michael Fitzsimons, formerly of the Ryland Inn and The Frog and The Peach, work his culinary magic. You will find his down-home American fare with creative flair as easy on the palate as it is on the pocketbook. A perfect spot for a mid-week chow down or casual Saturday stopover.

THOMMY G'S, 354 High Street, Burlington, http://townliving.com/restaurants/thommygs – Located in the former Mechanics Bank at the corner of High and Broad Streets in Burlington City, Thommy G's dazzles the eye as well as the palate. The setting is decidedly upscale, boasting 22-foot ceilings, balconies, spacious floor dimensions, and brass wall sconces. And the attractive bar, which occupies nearly the entire length of the interior wall, adds yet another touch of class to the proceedings. If you happen to be passing through, this is an excellent spot to enjoy a preprandial libation. . . better still, settle in for dinner and sample the hearty Italian fare with New Orleans flair. You will find the cuisine as robust and satisfying as the ambiance is congenial. Full review: www.artfuldiner.com/tommygs.html.

3 WEST, 665 Martinsville Road, Basking Ridge, www.3westrest.com – You cross the threshold and leave the stereotypical standard issue strip-mall exterior far behind. 3 West's inner sanctum is a handsome, beautifully designed space replete with rich woodwork, hardwood floors, glowing fireplaces, and a striking glass-enclosed kitchen. The latest project of Chester Moore Associates – also proprietors of the Trap Rock Restaurant and Brewery in Berkeley Heights and the Huntley Taverne in Summit – exudes a definitive touch of class. And the establishment's attractive, bustling bar has quickly become THE place to unwind after a significantly less than edifying day laboring on behalf of corporate America. There are some very nice wines available by the glass as well as a number of excellent Trap Rock drafts and diverse assortment of bottled brews. The urbane ambiance and convivial bar scene may be the initial drawing cards, but it is the superlative innovative American cuisine that will keep knowledgeable diners coming back for more. Full review: www.artfuldiner.com/3west.html

TRE FIGLIO, 500 West White Horse Pike, Egg Habor City, www.trefiglio.com – Sequestered along a quiet stretch of Route 30 just a few short miles from the casinos of AC and the beaches of Brigantine, Margate, and Ventnor, Jack & Toni Cordivari's Tre Figlio is a charming little gem that is superlatively suited for those who desire a touch of sophisticated serenity at the Jersey Shore. The restaurant is a beautifully appointed, intimate space replete with a comfortable bar, award-winning wine list, and first-rate service. . . And the cuisine, like the ambiance, is truly transporting; this is casually elegant dining at its finest. Enjoy a libation at the bar and then adjourn to table and begin your culinary journey with the gnocchi, ethereal potato and ricotta dumplings embellished with classic marinara and fresh basil. Entrée-wise, make it a point to sample the double-cut veal chop or grilled swordfish alla puttanesca. Highly recommended.

TWO IF BY SEA, 141 Shrewsbury Avenue, Red Bank, www.twoifbysea.com – Domiciled in what was, for some six decades, Sal's Tavern, a convivial watering hole and family-oriented neighborhood "joint," Two If By Sea's proprietors, Scott Farrar and Vince DeVivio, have elected to take a more sophisticated approach. The new American cuisine, majoring in the noble inhabitants of Davy Jones' locker, is beautifully prepared and presented, and the award-winning wine list a bevy of international treasures. But even if you don't plan to dine here on a given evening, be sure to pay a call at the "Flying Fish Saloon," the establishment's charming antique bar, and check out the interesting variety of wines by the glass. Two If By Sea also features a commendable selection of ports, cognacs, and dessert wines. Full review: www.artfuldiner.com/twoifbysea.html.

WASHINGTON INN, 801 Washington Street, Cape May, www.washingtoninn.com – Built as a plantation home in the year 1840, the Washington Inn is a perennial favorite of visitors to this lovely Victorian community. There's a touch of Old World civility here, an understated elegance that intoxicates the spirit. . . and this is especially apparent in the cozy bar/lounge. A comfortable seat here also puts you within striking distance of the spectacular ten thousand-bottle wine cellar, which most assuredly deserves a look-see. But not only are the choices extensive, the prices are completely within reason. In addition, be sure to check out the daily wine specials (also available by the glass), and the sizeable number of excellent half-bottle selections. It has been a number of years since I penned my original review of this establishment, and I must confess that both the food and the clientele have grown a bit too touristy for my taste. If you do decide to dine here, you probably won't be disappointed. . . Just be advised that there are quite a number of Cape May eateries that serve up more consistent comestibles at more reasonable prices. Original review: www.artfuldiner.com/washington.html.

WATERS EDGE, 1317 Beach Drive, Cape May, www.watersedgerestaurant.com – The exterior resembles a sunken Denny's. . . which just goes to prove that you can't judge a book by its cover. The interior is California casual, bright and breezy, boasting works of modern art and large plate-glass windows overlooking the Atlantic. The attractive bar, to your left as you enter, provides the ideal venue for an intimate cocktail before dinner. Or, should you prefer a more tranquil setting than the often bustling dining room in which to enjoy your meal, this area usually provides the coziest seats in the house. And stay for dinner you must, as chef/proprietor Neil Elsohn's incredibly flavorful fusion cuisine is the very best that Cape May has to offer. This is truly grownup fare, so do prepare yourself for an immensely satisfying dining experience. Waters Edge has been a personal favorite for many years. Full review: www.artfuldiner.com/watersedge.html.

WINDANSEA, 56 Shrewsbury Avenue, Highlands, www.windanseanj.comWindansea has the view – and a great deal more to recommend it. The second-floor dining room/bar (which also boasts an open air porch in summer) affords a picturesque panorama of Sandy Hook and entertainment to boot. You may also dock and dine al fresco or just enjoy a cold one at the outdoor bar. While quintessentially Jersey Shore, the establishment also boasts an ambiance (including an array of space-age aluminum tables and chairs) that has New York chic written all over it. . . with a touch of the South Pacific thrown in for good measure. If you want to enjoy a bit of liquid libation following a day at the beach, you've surely come to the right place. . . but don't pass up chef/proprietor Rob Higgins' first-rate contemporary American cuisine. This is an upbeat, slightly frenetic kind of happening. Go with that in mind, join in the fun, and you surely will not be disappointed.


The Artful Diner Diner is a freelance food writer who writes restaurant reviews for nj.com. His latest review can be seen on his nj.com weblog at http://www.nj.com/weblogs/artfuldiner/. An archive of past reviews for nj.com as well as reviews for restaurants around the country and the world can be found on this Web site at http://www.artfuldiner.com/reviews .

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