The Artful Diner - Preprandial Potions

Preprandial Potions

MCLOONE'S RIVERSIDE DINING, 816 Ocean Avenue, Sea Bright, www.mcloones.com – Known for years as McLoone's Rum Runner, this establishment recently upgraded its moniker to McLoone's Riverside Dining. Notable name change and noises about chef Neil Jordan taking the restaurant to the "fine dining level" not withstanding, the food here has never been terribly exciting. Check out the Website and you realize what keeps this eatery afloat: celebrity power, bustling bar scene, weekend entertainment, and a beautiful view. . . Which brings us to the outdoor deck, a great spot to enjoy a fancy libation, cold brew, and some basic sustenance. Keep things as simple as possible food-wise and all will be well. Avoid the indoor dining room, which majors in more convoluted fare and heavy tariffs.

MEDITERRA – 20 Hullfish Street, Princeton, www.t2restaurants.com – Ensconced on the ground floor of a retail/office complex just behind Palmer Square, Mediterra is a cheery, bustling establishment that attracts a widely diverse clientele. This is especially apparent in warmer weather, when tables spill out toward an attractive piazza replete with bubbling fountain. And the casual but decidedly focused Mediterranean fare is the perfect complement to the festive environment. The bar is an attractive gathering place for locals and visitors alike and features some interesting vintages by the glass and a very nice international wine list. Mediterra is highly recommended on all counts. Full review: www.artfuldiner.com/mediterra.html.

MERION INN, THE, 106 Decatur Street, Cape May, www.merioninn.com – There is no question that this venerable old inn retains the charm and graciousness of the Victorian era. And it is equally true that the beautiful turn-of-the-century bar, the oldest in Cape May, is the main attraction here. So pull up a chair and take a gander at the establishment's extensive martini menu, which includes such old favorites as a "Gibson" and "Silver Bullet," as well as such contemporary libations as the ubiquitous "Cosmopolitan" and "Martini Navratilova," Tanqueray, dash of Triple Sec and orange juice garnished with an orange slice. The food, however, has always struck me as being strictly standard issue; so you would do well to enjoy a cocktail and then depart for greener culinary pastures.

MOLLY PITCHER INN, THE, 88 Riverside Avenue, Red Bank, www.mollypitcher-oysterpoint.com – Modeled after Philadelphia's Independence Hall, the Molly Pitcher is a study in cultured civility. And your first port-of-call will undoubtedly be the popular bar/lounge. It is dark and intimate, richly furnished and uncompromisingly comfortable. Beyond its precincts, the atmospheric, tastefully-appointed dining room will beguile you with crystal chandeliers, imported Italian chairs, and an unobstructed view of the picturesque Navesink River. And while hotel meals usually fall far short of the mark, you may rest assured that the creative American cuisine is even more impressive than the surroundings. Full review: www.artfuldiner.com/mollypitcher.html.

NANNI RISTORANTE, 53 West Passaic Street, Rochelle Park, www.nanni.com – You enter Nanni Ristorante and take a step back in time. You have just been transported to a gastronomic galaxy far, far away – where dining is once again a sumptuously satisfying experience. . . where waiters are proud of their honored profession and excellent service is the rule rather than the exception. . . where handcrafted cuisine is lovingly prepared and impressively presented in the Old World tradition – and it feels marvelous, indeed! But be sure to pause in the cozy bar, which is separated from the main dining area by a magnificent etched-glass wall depicting the goddess of the sea. Here you may indulge in your favorite liquid libation and enjoy a bit of spirited conversation with the gregarious bartender. No matter what the occasion, you will find Nanni Ristorante an exceptionally pleasurable dining experience. Full review: www.artfuldiner.com/nanni.html.

OPA, 1743 Boardwalk (at Indiana Avenue), Atlantic City, www.opa1.com – Opa provides a welcome respite from the superstar cuisine – and superstar prices – dished out in many of AC's celebrity dining dens. The bar scene is also quite lively, if you just want to stop by for a little liquid refreshment. But should you decide to put in an appearance for lunch or dinner, you will find the excellent Mediterranean fare will be easy on your palate as well as your pocketbook. Try "George's Greek Salad" topped with huge strips of feta cheese, grilled swordfish with Mediterranean herbs, pan-seared Atlantic salmon, or the crab cakes Santorini accompanied by white bean hummus, grapefruit vinaigrette, and steak-fry potatoes. A real find in a town populated by overpriced and overrated eateries.

OPAH GRILLE, 12 Lackawanna Avenue, Gladstone – Sequestered away on a quiet street just across from the railroad station, Opah Grille occupies the space formerly inhabited by Rudolfo Ristorante. The bar is quite cozy and comfortable, boasting a select little wine list (with most vintages available by the glass), as well as a tempting selection of beers, sparking wines, and single malt scotch whiskies – more than sufficient to meet your libationary needs. Should you decide to settle in at table, you will find that matters piscatorial are handled with a dexterous and discerning hand. Indeed, if you appreciate the sensual subtleties of impeccably fresh and imaginatively prepared and presented seafood, this is one date with dining destiny you can't afford to pass up. Full review: www.artfuldiner.com/opahgrille.html.

PELICAN CLUB, THE, Marquis de Lafayette Hotel, 501 Beach Avenue, Cape May, www.pelicanclubcapemay.com – Perched atop the Marquis de Lafayette Hotel, the digs formerly inhabited by the Top of the Marq, the Pelican Club does a great deal to belie the old adage that the quality of a restaurant's cuisine may be assessed in inverse proportion to the splendor of its view. This handsome establishment not only serves up a breathtaking panorama of the Cape May waterfront but some equally breathtaking cuisine as well. But even if you have other dining plans, this classy establishment will make a wonderful start to your evening. So settle in comfortably at the bar, choose an appropriate libation from the first-class wine list, and spend some time soaking up the view. Full review: www.artfuldiner.com/pelicanclub.html.

PETE LORENZO'S CAFÉ, 66 South Clinton Avenue, Trenton, www.petelorenzos.com – Built in the 1830s, and converted into a café by one-time police officer Pete Lorenzo in 1918, this is, without doubt, an eatery that qualifies as a genuine, honest-to-goodness "joint" – in the very best and most colorful connotation that word has to offer. So settle in at the century-old bar, order a martini or Manhattan straight-up, and check out the flora and fauna. Wood-paneled walls ooze sweet memories from every nook and cranny, while stogie-toting political types wolf down potent liquid libations and devour oysters on the half shell. While you're at it, take a gander at the voluminous cosmopolitan wine list – and the incredibly reasonable tariffs. Should you decide to tie on the feedbag here, and I highly recommend that you do, bear in mind that Pete Lorenzo's treats beef with a devotion that borders on the religious. Full review: www.artfuldiner.com/petelorenzos.html.

The Artful Diner Diner is a freelance food writer who writes restaurant reviews for nj.com. His latest review can be seen on his nj.com weblog at http://www.nj.com/weblogs/artfuldiner/. An archive of past reviews for nj.com as well as reviews for restaurants around the country and the world can be found on this Web site at http://www.artfuldiner.com/reviews .