PIGGING OUT IN PORTLAND - January 2000
My wife and I recently returned from a week's
stay in Portland, Oregon, a charming, totally livable city
that is also no slouch gastronomically. If you're heading
to the West Coast in the near future, you might consider some
of the dining recommendations listed below:
ALLESSANDRO'S ITALIAN RESTAURANT & BAR,
301 SW Morrison Street, (503) 222-3900 -- Located in the heart
of downtown Portland, Alessandro's does a brisk lunch business
but is more subdued at dinner. You enter through a spacious,
well-appointed bar and make your way through to the dining
area. You begin with slices of dense and delicious Como bread
from the local Grand Central Bakery accompanied by a luscious
olive oil redolent of garlic and pepper. Salads are excellent
starters here. The hot spinach is replete with fresh scallops,
pancetta, and finished with a tangy sun-dried cranberry vinaigrette;
and the Caesar sports a dressing that is intensely flavorful
without overwhelming your palate with anchovy. The pastas
are uniformly excellent here, as are the fish dishes. The
halibut filet is sautéed with sherry, lemon, parsley and capers,
and the salmon is baked simply with lemon and fresh herbs.
The cioppino, classic seafood stew, is also highly recommended,
as are the oysters almondine. Prices are moderate, and there
is also a nice little wine list to complement your meal.
BRASSERIE MONTMARTE, 626 SW Park Avenue,
(503) 224-5552 -- Anyone who has thrown on the feedbag at
a bustling Paris bistro will feel at home the moment they
cross the threshold. From its black and white tile floors,
to its white-clothed tables topped with butcher paper, to
its dim old chandeliers, this charming brasserie exudes an
elegant-but-informal air that has hardly changed since the
restaurant first opened its doors in 1978. The food has had
its share of ups and downs over the years; but since Gene
Hansen took over the kitchen reins a year ago, things have
improved significantly. The sautéed Oregon snapper, for example,
is marvelously fresh and crowned with small morsels of Dungeness
crab and finished with a light and flavorful beurre blanc.
The pan-roasted venison embellished with a hearty Cumberland
sauce (a combination of red currant jelly, Port, orange and
lemon zests, mustard and seasonings) is equally mouth-watering.
The French fried artichoke hearts accompanied by a mustard-dill
dipping sauce is not to be missed. Prices are inexpensive/moderate,
there is live jazz seven nights a week, and food is served
into the wee hours.
BOMBAY CRICKET CLUB, 1925 SE Hawthorne
Boulevard (503) 231-0740 -- You step off the street into a
different world; a world where East meets West -- and does
so deliciously. There are tapes of cricket matches on the
wide-screen TV and delightfully complex Indian and Middle
Eastern aromas swirling through the air. By all means, go
for a table on the balcony and enjoy the spirited goings-on
down below. This is a fun place, so sit back and enjoy. You
will find the food here exotic and plenteous, and the prices
extremely reasonable. Start things off with a chaat, a salad
of chilled garbanzo beans, potatoes, onions and fresh tomatoes
spruced up with a dressing of mango powder, lemon, cilantro
and garam masala. The Mediterranean salad, sprinkled with
a dressing gently spiced with sumac, is also a good bet. Among
the curries, the chicken saag (prepared with spinach) is particularly
recommended; as is the lamb tikka botee, succulent cubes of
lamb marinated overnight in a tikka sauce and fired in the
tandoor oven. All the breads here are top-notch, especially
the plain, potato and garlic naan. For dessert, the mango
kulfi (homemade Indian ice cream) is hard to beat. Inexpensive/Moderate.
CAPRIAL'S BISTRO AND WINE, 7015 SE
Milwaukie Avenue (503) 235-6457 -- Of all our dining experiences
in and around Portland, Caprial's proved to be the greatest
disappointment. Strange, indeed, as Caprial Pence enjoys quite
an illustrious culinary reputation in these here parts. The
"Cooking with Caprial" television show is seen on PBS stations
around the country, she is the author of several popular cookbooks,
Gourmet magazine named her restaurant one of the best in Portland
and, in 1991, she was the recipient of the prestigious "Best
Chef in the Northwest" award from the James Beard Foundation.
So what went wrong? For one thing, Caprial is no longer at
the stove in her own kitchen. Oh, she may pop in occasionally
to chitchat with patrons... but the day-to-day cooking chores
have fallen to Chef Mark Dowers. And while there is certainly
no question that Mr. Dowers jazzy presentations belie the
restaurant's stark minimalist decor, they are, in my opinion,
a bit too innovative. The Northwest fare has been fused with
such a hodge-podge of divergent traditions that sometimes
it is difficult to comprehend precisely where the chef is
coming from. The kitchen also displays a decidedly heavy hand
with the sauces... which doesn't improve matters appreciably.
An appetizer of pan-fried ravioli filled with feta cheese
is perfectly cooked and artfully presented... but the rich
veggie sauce all too quickly bogs down the palate. And that
goes double for the seared eggplant and Maytag blue cheese
spread -- besides, the accompanying crostini could very well
do irreparable damage to your dental work. Entrees suffer
from a similar fate as their predecessors. The wok-steamed
salmon is wonderfully tender, but then it is gussied up with
an overbearing mix of ginger, scallions and hoisin. As if
to add insult to injury, the entire affair is plopped down
on a glutinous mass of curried noodles sabotaged by an overly
energetic lobster-peanut sauce. Simply too much going on here.
The special pan-roasted sturgeon was smothered beneath a lethal
dose of Sicilian tapenade that all but obliterated this lovely
creature's delicate flavor. This was then perched atop a seabed
of so-so garlic mashed potatoes and garnished with saffron
cream and a roasted red pepper sauce. Once again, too much
for the palate to bear. Desserts are, thank goodness, all
that they should be. Indeed, Mr. Dowers would be well advised
to take his cue from Pastry Chef Melissa Carey's homey creations
and consider a bit more subtlety in his presentations. There
is no question that the food is good here... However, it is
certainly not up to the hype. There are a host of restaurants
where one may feast on better vittles, shell out less long
green, and receive better service. And speaking of service...
My sturgeon was woefully overcooked, undoubtedly from sitting
under the heat lamp for an inordinate period of time while
our server was otherwise engaged. A great deal has transpired
on the Portland dining scene since Caprial collected her James
Beard in 1991. Her once cutting edge cuisine is now obviously
playing catch-up. She would do well to spend more time in
her kitchen and less time promoting her image. Moderate/Expensive.
CHEZ GRILL, 2229 SE Hawthorne Boulevard,
(503) 230-4002 -- If you're in search of a good, inexpensive
margarita, plus a wonderfully creative take on Mexican food,
you've just found it -- and at downright inflation-busting
tariffs. Your grilled fish taco may come stuffed with chinook
salmon one day, ahi tuna the next. Your quesadilla may be
infused with lamb, and your pork loin jazzed up with a mango-pepper
marmalade. Everything here is impeccably fresh and certain
to tantalize your taste buds. Whatever you do, be sure to
start things off with the baked avocado stuffed with polenta,
toasted hazelnuts, green onions, and jack cheese. Inexpensive,
funky and fun. IL PIATTO, 2348 SE Ankeny Street, (503) 236-4997
-- Since its opening in 1994, this charming eatery has developed
an extremely loyal following -- and rightly so. The ambiance
is warm and inviting (you can easily imagine yourself in some
romantic little hideaway in Greenwich Village), the dining
room bathed in the soft glow of candlelight and decorated
with a host of well-worn items from the Old Curiosity Shop.
Ah... but the food. The food is Italian, incredibly creative,
yet wonderfully comforting. It seduces the palate with its
beguiling tastes and textures. The antipasto changes daily,
and it is superb. My wife and I shared a copious platter containing
cous-cous with rock shrimp, artichoke hearts, mussels, roasted
red peppers, marinated chicken breast, Harvarti cheese, and
an utterly delectable beet and rabbit salad. Entrees are no
less inventive. A pork loin saltimbocca is delightfully tender
and spruced up with creamy polenta and perfectly cooked cauliflower
florets. The special of the day, however, stole the show.
Seared sturgeon was presented on a bed of angel hair pasta
tossed with arugula pesto and topped with a diminutive dollop
of pepper/olive tapendade. Desserts are all homemade, and
a lime cheesecake with Oreo crust dressed up with a yummy
sour cherry Port wine sauce was out of this world. Prices
are moderate, and Il Piatto is the recipient of the Wine Spectator's
Award of Excellence for their outstanding selection of Italian
vintages.
SAMMY'S RESTAURANT & BAR, 333
NW 23rd Avenue, (503) 222-3123 -- Several restaurants have
inhabited the digs where Sammy's now resides, but this convivial
pub-like eatery appears to have taken up permanent residence.
The interior is all polished wood with high-backed booths
dominating the main dining room and several tables for two
in the cozy bar area. You may choose from a variety of appetizers
and entrees here, including some interesting pasta and Greek
dishes. However, I would urge you to stick with more straightforward
items, which the kitchen does best. Steaks, for example, are
available with a number of interesting accoutrements (i.e.,
mushroom sherry demi-glace, Santa Fe chili pepper sauce, garlic-rosemary
sauce, moutarde hollandaise or peppercorn sauce), as are the
pork chops, lamb chops and mixed grill. House specialties
include Northwest pan-fried oysters and rack of lamb Dijonaise.
If you happen to stop by for lunch, be sure to order the fish
'n' chips; the halibut is ever so lightly breaded, and the
French fries are the best I have sampled anywhere. Even if
you don't plan to eat here, this is a great spot for a cocktail
before or after dinner. Sammy's also serves breakfast on the
weekends. Moderate/Expensive
SOUTHPARK SEAFOOD GRILL & WINE BAR,
901 SW Salmon Street (503) 326-1300 -- Ensconced in the building
formerly occupied by the B. Moloch/Heathman Bakery and Pub,
most Portlanders are of the opinion that South Park's casually
sophisticated decor is a vast improvement. The changes are
more than skin deep, however. The Mediterranean cuisine, under
the guiding hand of Executive Chef Paul Ornstein, is as classy
(and delicious) as the ambiance. Seafood is clearly the way
to go here, so you may wish to start things off with the wood-fired
oysters baked with spinach, Parmesan and bread crumbs or,
perhaps, the wood-oven-baked piquillo peppers stuffed with
shrimp and cod and finished with a creamy bechamel sauce.
Denizens of the deep are also very much in evidence among
the entrees; and when it comes to finny creatures, the ahi
tuna au poivre is the clear winner. Prepared medium-rare,
it is presented reclining on a bed of yummy mashed potatoes
and adorned with a bracing red wine demi-glace. Among the
specials, the seared scallops set atop a tomato/chive risotto
are definitively first-class. For dessert, be sure to try
the caramelized apple upside down cake garnished with cinnamon
mascarpone ice cream or the outrageous espresso turtle sundae.
There is an extensive, award-winning wine list here, along
with numerous special selections available by the glass. And
the cozy wine bar is the perfect spot to enjoy an intimate
pre or postprandial libation. Moderate.
WILDWOOD RESTAURANT & BAR, 1221 NW
21st Avenue, (503) 248-9663 -- With its ultra-chic decor,
Wildwood feels more like San Francisco... but the food is
Northwest all the way. Executive chef/owner Cory Schreiber
is a master at transforming traditional ingredients into absolute
feasts for both the eye and the palate. His skillet-roasted
Washington mussels literally melt in your mouth, and they
come swimming in a beguiling broth spiked with Chardonnay
vinegar. Soups change daily and are always worth considering.
The recently sampled pureed flageolet bean and winter vegetable
soup, for example, was incredibly tasty, its flavor further
enhanced with ham hocks and sage croutons. If you really want
to see what the kitchen is capable of, don't hesitate to begin
your meal with a salad of fried oysters and pancetta; it comes
garnished with a yummy aioli perched atop an herbed crepe.
Entrees change daily, so you never know what delightful possibilities
may be in store. Finny fare is a particular favorite here,
however, so be sure to try one of Mr. Schreiber's piscatorial
creations. On one evening, it may be the incredible pan-roasted
black bass on a silky potato puree; on another, the clay-oven-roasted
whole red snapper takes center stage. But be sure to save
room for one of Jennifer Welshhons' decadent desserts. I vote
for her Meyer lemon pudding cake adorned with cookies and
whipped cream. You will find some excellent Oregon vintages
on the reasonably-priced wine list. Moderate/Expensive
WILLIAMS ON 12TH, 207 SE 12th Avenue,
(503) 963-9226 -- Everything about this lovely diminutive
restaurant is pure delight: the polished hardwood floors,
the gilt-framed oils that adorn dark green walls, the wonderfully
comfortable chairs. There is even a discreet open kitchen
tucked into one corner where you may observe chef/owner Bill
Henry perform his culinary magic. Indeed, the superlative
quality of his fine American/French cuisine most assuredly
belies his tender twenty-five years. He clearly demonstrates
a sense of style that often escapes chefs twice his age. There
are a select number of appetizers and entrees, and all are
completely up to the mark. His starter of thyme pappardelle
pasta is sprinkled with morsels of luscious air-dried salami
and chioggia beets, and then finished with a delicate and
delicious lemon creme fraiche. And his ethereal Dungeness
crab cakes are embellished with fennel, roasted peppers, frisse,
and a fabulous aioli. Couples may even wish to share a plate
of assorted aged French and Italian cheeses garnished with
slices of bosc pear. Entrees are no less impressive. The pan-seared
scallops are sheer buttery pleasure. They are accompanied
by perfectly roasted leeks and potatoes, arranged on a scrumptious
seabed of julienne veggies and consummated with a light vegetable
sauce. Utterly superb! Vegetarians will positively revel in
the apple-roasted heirloom acorn squash. Individual halves
are dressed with pearl pasta, chioggia beets and goat cheese,
and then encircled with a ring of herb oil. The grilled veal
chop with a shitake/dried-cherry sauce and white truffle potatoes
is outstanding, as is the tender and succulent garlic stuffed
grilled chicken with cave-aged Gruyere and red thumb potatoes.
For dessert, be sure to sample the light and delicate chocolate
mousse cake or one of the homemade ice creams. An exceptional
dining experience. Moderate/Expensive.
AND IF YOU HAPPEN TO BE TOURING THE
NORTHERN WILLAMETTE VALLEY WINE COUNTRY just to the southwest
of Portland, be sure to pay at call at the following:
THE DUNDEE BISTRO, Corner of Highway
99 & Seventh Street, Dundee, (503) 554-1650 -- A delightful,
completely informal stopover featuring excellent food and
a first-class selection of local wines. Right next store,
you will find the Ponzi Wine Bar, with various local vintages
available by the glass or the flight. McMENAMINS HOTEL OREGON,
310 NE Evans, McMinnville, (503) 472-8427 -- A charmingly
restored hotel featuring some very good creative pub fare.
Highly recommended for breakfast, lunch, dinner, or an overnight
stay. TINA'S, 760 Highway 99, Dundee, (503) 538-8880 -- Owners
Tina Landfried and her husband, David Bergen, work their culinary
magic in a squat little building by the side of the road.
The interior is quite cozy, however. You will also discover
a wonderful selection of reasonably-priced local vintages
by the bottle or by the glass. An absolute must for those
prowling the wine country. Bon Appetit!
TAD
