Pomegranate
1209 East Cary Street
Richmond, Virginia
(804) 643-9354

http://www.pomegranate-eurobistro.com

During the warmer weather, with front doors thrown open wide and daylight lingering, Pomegranate is bright and breezy. In the bleak midwinter, on the other hand, with darkness descending early, the restaurant's cozy bi-level dining area, exposed brick walls, and diminutive bar provide an irresistible venue for a casually romantic tête-à-tête. And chef/owner Kevin LaCivita's hearty bistro fare — "It's French-Tuscan, a combination of both, with a little bit of the Spanish and Greek influences," notes Mr. LaCivita — is a perfect match for the easy-going ambiance.

So why not begin with a libation? There's a very nice wine list from which to choose, as well as some excellent choices available by the glass. Especially noteworthy are the crisp and grapefruity Domaine Girar "La Garenne" Sancerre ($8.00) and an unusually elegant Fife Medicino Uplands Zinfandel ($8.00).

Appetizers include a superb lobster scallop crab cake ($9.00) and bruschetta with pâté of rabbit ($8.00). The former, exquisitely golden brown of countenance, yields to a deliciously creamy, provocatively seasoned interior. Jicama slaw and micro greens provide a crunchy counterpoint, pomegranate reduction and aîoli of white truffle essence elegant consummatory touches. The latter, crispy toasts topped with moist and delicate mounds of rabbit pâté, is embellished with smoked prosciutto, shaved Reggiano Parmesan, sprinkles of balsamic vinaigrette reduction, and a tiara of micro greens. An absolutely marvelous gestalt of colors, tastes, and textures.

Other starter possibilities: sautéed clams with a fava bean/tomato/white wine butter and Italian parsley ($8.00); fire-seared Hudson Valley foie gras over crostini ($13.00); and Vermont maple syrup caramelized quail stuffed with mascarpone polenta over fried spinach and cabernet demi-glace ($11.00).

Entrées continue to demonstrate the chef's consummately creative bent but still manage to maintain their rustic, homespun bistro charm. Tender braised veal cheeks ($23.00), for example, swim in a sumptuous tomato/red wine/veal stock ragout, surrounding an equally rich mascarpone polenta cake crowned with fresh spinach.

Parrotfish ($27.00), a native of the Pacific, exhibits pristinely white flesh, mild flavor, and a texture that is faintly reminiscent of a cross between Chilean sea bass and swordfish. The thick, steak-like filet is cooked through, precisely as ordered, caressed by a golden brown potato crust, and finished with basil olive oil and pomegranate reduction.

Additional entrées include: grilled "Frenched" pork chop stuffed with Gorgonzola, spinach, and toasted pecans ($24.00); Orange Blossom Honey caramelized guinea fowl over roasted purple fingerling potatoes, grilled asparagus, roasted garlic, and crostini ($26.00); pan-seared filet of halibut with a broth of littleneck clams, fava beans, tomato, crushed red pepper, and Italian parsley ($25.00); and fresh fettuccini with veal meatballs, spinach, shaved Reggiano Parmesan, and sage brown butter ($18.00).

Mr. LaCivita's mother, Mary Ann, prepares many of the desserts, including a benchmark baklava that was featured in the November 2003 issue of Richmond magazine. Also sampled during a recent visit was a highly unusual but thoroughly addictive roasted garlic ice cream.

Chef Kevin LaCivita's enticing bistro fare with international flair is as delightfully "down-home" as it is creatively charismatic. Should your sojourns take you to Richmond or the surrounding area, be sure to place Pomegranate at the very top of your dining agenda.

The Artful Diner
September 2004

The Artful Diner is a freelance food writer who writes restaurant reviews for nj.com. His latest review can be seen on his nj.com weblog at http://blog.nj.com/artful_diner/. An archive of past reviews for New Jersey Online as well as reviews for restaurants around the country and the world can be found on this Web site at http://www.artfuldiner.com/reviews .

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