Pfistermühle
Platz Hotel, Pfistermühle 4, Munich
I must confess, I was a bit leery. I'd heard
wonderful things about the Pfistermühle... but it seemed to bear an uncanny
resemblance to a caricature of a Hollywood version of a typical Bavarian
restaurant.
Thankfully, however, my fears were quickly laid to rest.
Yes, the restaurant is irresistibly appealing. Located in a converted mill with
vaulted ceilings, rustic tables and chairs, and assorted countrified decorative
accoutrements, its diminutive dining rooms exude a decidedly intimate
and romantic aura. But the welcome is warm and the patrons are
totally UN-touristy. And you may also rest assured that the cuisine does
not take a backseat to the ambiance. The Bavarian offerings are
lovingly prepared, attractively presented, and generously proportioned.
You begin with a marvelously diverse assortment of rolls
served with a lovely goat cheese spread tinctured with pumpkin and then move on
to even more interesting gastronomic pursuits.
The salads here make excellent starters, but a word of
explanation is also in order. In the United States, salads are relatively
unadorned, usually consisting of assorted lettuces, slightly anemic tomato
wedges, and a glob of Brand X dressing. In Germany, however, there are lovely
little touches that make salads infinitely more appealing.
Take the crispy green salad with raw vegetables (11,50€),
for example. This is really something of a misnomer, as the accompanying
vegetables are not really raw; rather, they arrive with an ethereal deep-fried
crust in the manner of tempura. The buttermilk dressing is exquisite, as is the
baked pumpkin and honey dip. To spice things up, there are also diminutive
dollops of marinated cucumber slices and red and white cabbage salads.
Another bit of greenery worth sampling is the salad of red
cabbage topped with slices of tea-smoked duck and embellishment of red and
green lettuces (13,50€). The duck is rich, marvelously meaty, and exhibits just
the proper shade of pink. The consummating touch is a subtle but assertive
apple-walnut vinaigrette.
All entrées are worth considering, but the kitchen roasts
meats particularly well. Pork, of course, a staple in all German restaurants,
is always a safe bet. But don't be afraid to try the wild boar -- pork with an
attitude -- which has incredible depth of flavor. A favorite at the Pfistermühle
is the wild boar stew and filet (23,50€). The meat is remarkably moist and tender
and is set on a pillow of parsnip purée and garnished with a tempting array of
walnut dumplings.
The loin of veal (24,50€), what may easily be described as a
filet mignon of veal, is another auspicious choice. The meat exhibits a
cut-like-butter consistency that is rarely found in veal dishes in the US,
and is companioned by shredded herb-infused potato fritters interspersed with a
silken celery purée. A truly wonderful presentation... my taste buds on set on edge
just thinking about it.
For dessert, my wife and I shared the homemade strudel with
baked apples and garnish of chocolate sorbet (7,50€), which, believe me, tasted
as good as it looked (See photo).
There is a compact wine list that marries quite well with
the cuisine. Particularly recommended is the 2006 Würzburger Pfaffenberg
Spätburgunder, Pinot Noir (37,50€), which contributed a decided touch of
elegance but was still heady enough to bring out the very best in both the veal
and the wild boar.
An exceedingly cozy and most satisfying dining experience in
every respect.
The Artful Diner
November 2007
