2001 James Beard Award Nominee
Journalism


Home

Restaurant Reviews

Artful Weblog

Artful Weblog

Jersey Shore

Wine

Dining Articles

   
The Artful Diner Artful Diner logo
Black bar
Check out northern Germany reviews......
More Munich Restaurant Reviews

Pfistermühle
Platz Hotel, Pfistermühle 4, Munich

I must confess, I was a bit leery. I'd heard wonderful things about the Pfistermühle... but it seemed to bear an uncanny resemblance to a caricature of a Hollywood version of a typical Bavarian restaurant.

Thankfully, however, my fears were quickly laid to rest. Yes, the restaurant is irresistibly appealing. Located in a converted mill with vaulted ceilings, rustic tables and chairs, and assorted countrified decorative accoutrements, its diminutive dining rooms exude a decidedly intimate and romantic aura. But the welcome is warm and the patrons are totally UN-touristy. And you may also rest assured that the cuisine does not take a backseat to the ambiance. The Bavarian offerings are lovingly prepared, attractively presented, and generously proportioned.

You begin with a marvelously diverse assortment of rolls served with a lovely goat cheese spread tinctured with pumpkin and then move on to even more interesting gastronomic pursuits.

The salads here make excellent starters, but a word of explanation is also in order. In the United States, salads are relatively unadorned, usually consisting of assorted lettuces, slightly anemic tomato wedges, and a glob of Brand X dressing. In Germany, however, there are lovely little touches that make salads infinitely more appealing.

Take the crispy green salad with raw vegetables (11,50€), for example. This is really something of a misnomer, as the accompanying vegetables are not really raw; rather, they arrive with an ethereal deep-fried crust in the manner of tempura. The buttermilk dressing is exquisite, as is the baked pumpkin and honey dip. To spice things up, there are also diminutive dollops of marinated cucumber slices and red and white cabbage salads.

Another bit of greenery worth sampling is the salad of red cabbage topped with slices of tea-smoked duck and embellishment of red and green lettuces (13,50€). The duck is rich, marvelously meaty, and exhibits just the proper shade of pink. The consummating touch is a subtle but assertive apple-walnut vinaigrette.

All entrées are worth considering, but the kitchen roasts meats particularly well. Pork, of course, a staple in all German restaurants, is always a safe bet. But don't be afraid to try the wild boar -- pork with an attitude -- which has incredible depth of flavor. A favorite at the Pfistermühle is the wild boar stew and filet (23,50€). The meat is remarkably moist and tender and is set on a pillow of parsnip purée and garnished with a tempting array of walnut dumplings.

The loin of veal (24,50€), what may easily be described as a filet mignon of veal, is another auspicious choice. The meat exhibits a cut-like-butter consistency that is rarely found in veal dishes in the US, and is companioned by shredded herb-infused potato fritters interspersed with a silken celery purée. A truly wonderful presentation... my taste buds on set on edge just thinking about it.

For dessert, my wife and I shared the homemade strudel with baked apples and garnish of chocolate sorbet (7,50€), which, believe me, tasted as good as it looked (See photo).

There is a compact wine list that marries quite well with the cuisine. Particularly recommended is the 2006 Würzburger Pfaffenberg Spätburgunder, Pinot Noir (37,50€), which contributed a decided touch of elegance but was still heady enough to bring out the very best in both the veal and the wild boar.

An exceedingly cozy and most satisfying dining experience in every respect.

The Artful Diner
November 2007

The Artful Diner is an independent, freelance food writer.  His latest review and an archive of past reviews for restaurants around the country and the world can be found on this site on the REVIEWS page.

E-mail Artful Diner!
Black bar
München Münster Bergisch-Gladbach Lübeck