Pete Lorenzo's Cafe
66 South Clinton Avenue
Trenton, Mercer County, New Jersey
(609) 695-6868
By The Artful Diner
December 28, 1998
Situated directly across from the train station, you can't help but notice that the exterior of this former hotel is slightly on the tacky side--but that only adds to its charm. Built in the 1830s, and converted into a cafe by one-time police officer Pete Lorenzo in 1918, this is, without doubt, an eatery that qualifies as a genuine, honest-to-goodness "joint"--in the very best and most colorful connotation that word has to offer.
Settle in at the century-old bar, order a martini or Manhattan straight-up, and check out the flora and fauna. Wood-paneled walls ooze sweet memories from every nook and cranny, while stogie-toting political types wolf down potent liquid libations and devour oysters on the half shell. Ah... democracy in action.
While you're at it, take a gander at the voluminous, cosmopolitan wine list. You'll notice a preponderance of reds here, specifically chosen to match the hale and hearty steakhouse fare--and all at incredibly reasonable tariffs. Starting at the top, a 1989 Bordeaux from Pichon-Longueville-Baron is an absolute steal at $125.00. Then, of course, the Ruffino Riserva Ducale Gold Chianti Classico ($45.00) is nothing to sneeze at either; and a rough 'n' ready 1995 Pesquera from Spain ($35.00) is sure to hold its own with any four-legged creature, fish or fowl that happens its way. There are many fine options priced in the twenties, including Oregon's King Estate Pinot Noir ($29.00), an exceptional 1995 Allegrini Valpolicella Palazzo Della Torre ($24.00), and a very nice Zinfandel from Rabbit Ridge ($23.00). You will also find a good selection of half bottles and wines by the glass.
Once seated comfortably at table, however, other important decisions await. Like many restaurants of similar ilk, Pete Lorenzo's cooks up certain comestibles infinitely better than others. Choose from among these worthy specialties, and your stomach will purr contentedly all the way home; stray too far afield, on the other hand, and your dining experience could be somewhat less than memorable.
Salads, for instance, are merely so-so and, since a house version is provided with the entree, entirely superfluous. The greens are varied and crisp, but not overly exciting... unless you opt to gussy them up with the special French dressing awash with yummy chunks of Roquefort. At $3.00 additional, this is a small price to pay for such a delicious extravagance.
When it comes to other preparatory fodder, the simpler the better. Such familiar appetizers as shrimp cocktail ($7.95) and lump crab cocktail ($8.50) are right on the money. The breaded mushrooms ($3.75), however, are both bland and watery, and the tortellini with marinara ($4.75) is nothing to write home about. Soup, though, is a good bet here. A cup of nourishing minestrone ($2.75), for example, would make an excellent prelude for those with more modest appetites.
Entrees require the same degree of sedulous circumspection, as there are a host of culinary offerings from which to choose. Chicken may be had cacciatore ($17.00), in casserole ($16.00), or parmigiana ($14.00). Veal may be ordered scaloppine ($16.00), saltimbocca ($18.00), single chop ($19.00), two chops ($39.00), or extra cut steak ($28.00). You will also discover a proliferation of reasonably priced pasta possibilities. Of these aforementioned items, I would suggest that the veal chops and veal steak have the most to recommend them. Lamb chops ($22.00) are also a delicious alternative.
Bear in mind, however, that it is always wise to pay heed to what an establishment does best... and, at Pete Lorenzo's, beef is treated with a devotion that borders upon the religious. It is shipped in by the quarter-steer, then aged and cut to order on the premises. The sirloin, bursting with flavor, comes in 28-30 or 18-20 ounce steaks ($28.00 & $23.00, respectively); the cut-like-butter tenderloin may be ordered in a 20-22 ounce portion for $29.00 or 12-14 ounces for $24.00. But if you pride yourself on being a confirmed and committed carnivore, nothing short of the porterhouse cut for two ($58.00) will satisfy your deepest longings. Truly a beef-lover's dream come true.
And those of a piscatorial persuasion also need not fear disappointment. Fresh fish is delivered twice daily and is available at market price (generally in the $19.00 - $23.00 range). Finny fare may be ordered blackened, sauteed with Madeira wine and capers or grilled with lemon and butter. My most recent sampling was a perfectly prepared blackened mahi-mahi ($21.00). The flesh was firm yet moist, and the spices sufficiently subtle to allow the natural flavor of this delectable species to shine through the seasoning.
Wonderfully fat and fluffy steak fries--the best I have yet encountered--accompany various entrees, but there are also other tasty accoutrements, including an impressive array of impeccably fresh vegetables. Green beans, escarole, cauliflower, broccoli and spinach are available at $3.50 per serving, broccoli rabe and asparagus at market price ($2.00 extra if you would prefer your veggies au gratin).
Since portions are more than ample, and doggy bags appear to be very much in evidence, dessert is something of a moot culinary point. In any event, with the exception of the tiramisu ($5.00), all are made off campus and not particularly inspiring. My advice would be to finish off your meal with a cup of strong espresso or something even stronger--a single malt Scotch, for instance--and call it even.
When you're in the mood for a little nostalgia--and some old-fashioned good eating--a visit to Pete Lorenzo's Cafe is highly recommended. The food is solid, satisfying fare, the service crisp and professional, and the patrons chummy and easy-going. Just follow the few simple guidelines noted above, and your gastronomic journey down memory lane is certain to be a rewarding one.
Cuisine: Steak plus
Hours: Lunch: Mon - Fri, 11:30 a.m. - 3:00 p.m.; Dinner: Mon - Fri, 3:00 p.m. - 11:00 p.m.; Sat, 5:00 p.m. - 11:00 p.m.; CLOSED SUNDAY
Credit Cards: AX, MC, V, Discover
Attire: Casual
Smoking: The restaurant does NOT have a nonsmoking section
Reservations: Recommended
Parking: Valet
Alcohol: License
Price: Moderate/Expensive
Handicapped Accessible: Yes
Specials: Extensive, reasonably priced wine list
