Pepperozzo Restaurant
517 Station Avenue
Haddon Heights, Camden County, New Jersey
(856) 546-9777
By The Artful Diner
10/25/1999
If you are forever in search of undiscovered little eateries that won't break the bank, you could certainly do worse than throwing on the feedbag at Pepperozzo... Unfortunately, you could also do a great deal better. For while the atmosphere of this agreeable BYOB storefront is quite pleasant, the Italian cuisine is a scant step above the ordinary, service is variable at best, and the kitchen can be somewhat less than punctual in getting the goods to your table.
This space was occupied for many years by Loose Ends and, toward the end of its tenure, both the decor and the food began showing their age. I must say, the new tenants have done a commendable job of sprucing up the interior. As you may have guessed from the establishment's rather interesting moniker (an amalgam of the two owners' names), peppers figure prominently in the decorative arrangements. There is also the added warmth of an exposed brick wall, Casablanca fans, and a poster of the Big Night, a film in which food plays a leading role. The dining area feels comfortable... and clean. And the rest rooms are all spit and polish. If only the food were up to the same exacting standards.
But that's not to say that all is lost. There are some high points here that deserve to be mentioned. The crusty round bread from a nearby bakery is quite good, as is the herbed olive oil that accompanies it. Soup or salad is included with your entree, and both have a great deal to recommend them. Among the former, the pasta e fagioli is appropriately rustic and redolent of fennel; and the chicken orzo and chicken tortellini are hearty and flavorful. The salad isn't particularly exotic, but it does feature an impeccably fresh assortment of mixed greens and a very nice homemade vinaigrette.
Appetizers are somewhat less successful. Sauteed "Wildside Mushrooms" ($5.50) come swimming in a Marsala wine reduction that is entirely too rich and salty, are topped with an even richer coating of mozzarella cheese, and are served over a sliced herb baguette that is sufficiently fossilized to inflict permanent damage upon one's dental work. My advice is to stick to basics -- the spinach and broccoli rabe saute ($5.00) or the antipasto ($7.00), for instance -- since other starters, and also many of the entrees, are the unwilling victims of oversaucing.
And speaking of entrees, the veal Anthony ($19.00), the establishment's signature dish, consists of sauteed medallions topped with lump crabmeat and shrimp. The crustaceans are perfectly acceptable, but the veal is slightly on the dry side, and the otherwise delicate presentation is drowned in an overbearing concoction of butter, lemon and white wine. Simply too much of a good thing. Ditto the catch of the day. The grouper ($16.50) is absolutely fresh and done to a turn, but it is, quite literally, submerged in an entirely too assertive tomato/basil sauce. Sad to say, several other dishes suffer a similar fate.
As with the appetizers, when contemplating your main course, a simple rule of thumb applies: the less gussied up the better. Steak, for example, is well worth trying. A special filet ($18.00) came precisely as ordered (medium rare), its natural flavor effectively enhanced with just the touch of a tasty balsamic reduction. The "Tuna Pepperozzo" ($17.00), similarly jazzed up with a balsamic and caramelized onion reduction, is also a wise choice. Excellent efforts both... but then the chef proceeded to obviate his good work by serving up a medley of mixed veggies that had obviously sprung from a plastic pouch.
You might also give the pasta dishes a look-see -- just steer clear of the more exotic accoutrements. In order of preference, I would recommend: orecchiette (little ears) with Italian sausage, sun-dried tomatoes and sauteed broccoli rabe ($13.00); linguine combined with artichokes, olive oil and Parmigiano ($13.00); gnocci baked with marinara sauce and topped with mozzarella cheese ($11.00). All are good, but hardly exceptional.
Desserts are shipped in from a woman's nearby pastry kitchen. Sorbets ($3.50), peach in season and lemon and orange, are quite delicious; and the peanut butter/chocolate cake ($3.95) is downright decadent. The coffee ($1.00) is up to the mark, as are the espresso ($1.50) and cappuccino ($3.00).
The food here isn't about to knock your socks off, but it is certainly acceptable of quality and reasonable of price. There are, however, other factors that need to be taken into consideration. For openers, the service is iffy. On one occasion, our server was quite knowledgeable and attentive. But, on our second go-round, we encountered a young woman who had neither the inclination nor the savoir faire to adequately discharge her duties as an illustrious representative of the food service industry. When queried about the desserts, which I had already ascertained were made off campus, she blithely replied: "Oh, they must be made here, because I just open the refrigerator door and there they are!" 'Nough said.
Secondly, even on a fairly quiet evening, there is just no telling at what speed the kitchen is likely to be functioning. During our second visit, a couple was seated opposite us and immediately explained to their server that they had tickets to see a play and, although they had sufficient time, wanted to make certain that there would be no delay in the delivery of their vittles. Of course, you can guess the rest... Entrees took an inordinate amount of time to make their way to table. And, needless to say, the couple was a good deal less than pleased about the necessity of wolfing down their meal and making a mad dash for the door -- which was further delayed by the tardiness of the check.
Finally, like many modest eateries with delusions of monetary grandeur, this restaurant's owners have developed the infuriating habit of booking in soirees that are simply too large to be adequately accommodated within the limited spatial dimensions of their establishment. A recent birthday bash, for example, featured twenty revelers and a belly dancer. We managed to make our exit just before the already raucous antics got out of control... other diners were not so fortunate.
There is no question that Pepperozzo could very easily fill the bill as a pleasant, intimate hideway serving up good food at moderate prices. As of the present moment, however, it has yet to discover its proper niche in the ultimate culinary scheme of things. And, until it does, your dining experience is likely to be a mixed blessing at best.
Cuisine: Italian
Hours: Lunch: Mon - fri, 11:00 a.m. - 3:00 p.m.; Dinner: Tues - Sat, 5:00 p.m. - 10:00 p.m.; CLOSED SUNDAY
Credit Cards: AX, MC, V
Attire: Casual
Smoking: Smoking is not permitted in the restaurant.
Reservations: Recommended on weekends
Parking: Adequate street parking
Alcohol: BYOB
Price: Moderate
Handicapped Accessible: Yes
