Pazzo! Italian Café
853 Fifth Avenue South
Naples, Florida
(239) 434-8494
Presided over by the same restaurant group that owns nearby Chops and Yabba Island Grill, this friendly establishment has been voted Naples best Italian restaurant. And with good reason... Pazzo! majors in innovative Italian cuisine, but also features enough traditional rustic favorites to keep its constantly burgeoning clientele happy. Just how burgeoning...? even in the almost unbearable heat and humidity of a typical Florida summer, when most eateries are begging for customers, Pazzo! is still packing them in.
But be sure to make the bustling bar scene your first port of call, and take the opportunity to peruse the award-winning wine list. My only quibble here is that many of the selections, particularly those of a plebeian nature, are severely overpriced. Antinori's 2004 Santa Cristina and 2005 Orvieto Classico "Campogrande, for example, both good for everyday quaffing, and both available at your local retailer for about $10.00 a pop, go for a whopping $39.00 and $37.00, respectively. On the other hand, the 2001 Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva, an excellent vintage, is a relative bargain at $54.00.
No, if you're on a budget, your best bet is to stick with the copious selection of wines by the glass, which range from $5.95 - $14.95 for both white and red. Among the whites, the 2005 Villa Rosa Gavi di Gavi ($8.95) isn't about to set the oenological world on fire, but it's light, crisp, eminently drinkable, and the perfect foil for the Sunshine State's often sultry weather. For more complex choices, try either the 2004 Terlano Pinot Grigio from Italy's Alto Adige region ($11.50) or New Zealand's 2005 Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc ($10.95).
Among the reds, I'd opt for Greg Norman's 2005 Pinot Noir ($7.75), Antinori's rich and robust 2003 "Villa Antinori" ($13.95), or the 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon from Beaulieu Vineyards ($14.95).
And be advised that the bar also sports an interesting selection of bellinis and martinis, as well as Italian liqueurs, cognacs, grappas, and ports.
But on to the food... As noted above, it ranges from contemporary to more traditional fare. Among the latter, starters include a classic Caesar salad garnished with garlic roasted croutons and Grana Padano cheese ($7.50); fresh tomato bruschetta ($7.90); Tuscan bean soup with fresh littleneck clams, oregano, tomatoes, and escarole ($7.90); fried calamari served with a zesty marinara ($8.90); and a plump and succulent array of black Sicilian mussels swimming in a spicy broth awash with tomatoes, garlic, and artichoke hearts ($9.90).
On the contemporary front, those with more adventurous palates may revel in such preludes as seared yellowfin tuna with sweet pepper "Sugo" and fresh arugula tossed with citrus and wasabi-infused "passata di ceci" ($11.90); jumbo lump crab cake served with sun-dried tomato and sweet basil-citrus sauce ($12.90); shaved fennel, arugula, and citrus salad ($8.50); and tuna carpaccio ($11.90).
Entrées also present diners with a number of innovative/traditional possibilities. Dyed-in-the-wool traditionalists may choose from such options as "Tre," a mouth-watering combo of chicken Parmesan, homemade cheese ravioli, and veal Marsala ($23.90); spaghettini with Sicilian veal and beef meatballs and Italian sausage tossed in roasted tomato sauce, fresh spinach, artichoke hearts, and Locatelli cheese ($17.90; veal piccata ($26.90); and veal Italian meatloaf ($18.90).
On the contemporary front, the seared grouper with shrimp and crab scampi ($29.90) is first-class, albeit suffering from a surfeit of oil. The pork osso bucco with a balsamic-sweet soy glaze ($25.90) is highly recommended, as are the Gorgonzola-encrusted filet of beef ($32.90) and the salmon Marsala ($22.90). For purists, Pazzo! also serves a number of simply grilled items - filet mignon ($26.90/$33.90), NY strip ($32.90), grouper ($27.90), and salmon ($19.90).
Desserts include a rich and creamy cappuccino cheesecake ($8.95), benchmark tiramisu ($6.95), and "Lasagnetta" of amaretto and mixed berries spiked with amaretto cream ($7.95).
If you're in the mood for a casual, exciting evening with good friends, good food, and good wine, Pazzo! is tough to beat. Just be advised, reservations are de rigueur... usually well in advance.
The Artful Diner
January 2007
The Artful Diner is a freelance food writer who writes restaurant reviews for nj.com. His latest review can be seen on his nj.com weblog at http://blog.nj.com/artful_diner/. An archive of past reviews for New Jersey Online as well as reviews for restaurants around the country and the world can be found on this Web site at http://www.artfuldiner.com/reviews .
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