Parc Bistro
4067 Skippack Pike
Skippack, Pennsylvania
(610) 584-1146
www.parcbistro.com
Located in the gently rolling hills just west of Philadelphia, Skippack Village is both quaint and picturesque. Home to a plethora of boutique shops and numerous restaurants, it strikes one as a rather interesting amalgam of Lambertville, Cape May, and New Hope. The perfect spot to spend a few pleasant hours browsing on a Saturday or Sunday afternoon.
Despite the abundance of eateries, however, I was beginning to despair that this charming historic community was still something of culinary wasteland, as a number of dining experiences had been significantly less than edifying. Several recent visits to the Parc Bistro, however, have done a great deal to restore my faith in Skippack dining scene. Not only does the lovingly refurbished 19th century roadside inn exude a stylish rusticity, but the cuisine, under the watchful eye of Executive Chef William A. Tschoepe, is perfectly commensurate with the casually elegant bistro-like environs. .
The restaurant's slogan - "A little bit French; a little bit Country; a little bit Italian" - is perfectly reflected in the bill of fare. You may mix and match among the small plates (starters), go the traditional appetizer/entrée route, or even throw in one of the pizza possibilities from the establishment's wood burning oven. There is, quite literally, something for everyone.
Among the preludes, the crabmeat rolls ($14.00) are as attractive to the eye as they are pleasing to the palate. Three sweet and succulent cylinders are arranged vertically at the centrum surrounded by dollops of fried ginger, tamari glazed mushrooms, and colorful dabs of red and yellow pepper oil. But if you're really in an extravagant mood, be sure to try the decadently delicious "American Kobe Beef Sliders," two seared burgers stuffed with foie gras and black truffles.
The bruschetta ($7.50) - garlic oil-brushed crostini, herbed ricotta cheese, and tomato basil concasse - is also an excellent starter, as are several of the salads. Caesar ($8.00) may be considered old hat, but the rendition encountered here is completely up to the mark and eminently satisfying. The romaine is pristinely fresh and torn into bite-size pieces, the freshly baked herbed croutons are perfectly crisp, and the dressing (sans anchovy) and provolone cheese are applied in just the proper proportions. And the mixed green salad ($7.50) - replete with chunks of Roma tomatoes, cucumbers, feta cheese, soy nuts, and a zesty balsamic vinaigrette - is also quite excellent... even better when companioned by seared goat cheese medallions ($9.50).
Among the entrées, seafood is always a good bet - and the marvelous mixed grill ($26.00) is a case in point. For starters, all constituents are perfectly prepared, which, given the diversity of this presentation, is no mean feat. The center of attraction is a luscious polenta cake crowned with a crunchy giant prawn. Assembled about the periphery are a moist filet of salmon, meaty Baja scallop, tender but firm-to-the-bite spears of asparagus, and colorful splashes of yellow pepper ketchup.
Other piscatorial pleasures include a special grilled striped bass presented on a seabed of roasted fingerling potatoes, baby carrots, and green peas consummated in a lovely white wine broth ($23.00) and crispy sautéed Cape May Point fluke filet ($22.75). The latter is a beautifully fried filet luxuriating on a pillow or rich whipped Yukon gold potatoes and topped with a dollop of jicama salad. The finishing touch is a savory pool of lobster-corn bisque
Another delicious variation on the seafood theme is the fried yellow beefsteak tomato Napoleon ($30.00). This winning composition is layered with scrumptious chilled poached lobster, frisée, ripe charantais melon, and Parma ham. The finishing touches are a mango coulis and sensuous apricot dressing.
Carnivores, however, need not despair. They will be more than assuaged with either the pan-seared beef medallions ($24.00) or the grilled cold Delmonico steak ($33.00). The former arrives on a pillow of Israeli couscous in the company of stir-fried summer vegetables and a lusty red wine butter sauce. The latter is embellished with a heady house made steak sauce and garnish of crispy French fried onion rings.
To finish off your evening at table, be sure to try the artisan cheese place (priced accordingly; $13.75 on our most recent visit) or one of the establishments eminently recommendable desserts.
Like everything else encountered at Parc Bistro, the service is more than up to snuff. On one occasion, we discovered that our server, Elizabeth, was the sister of Mimi Wood, the executive chef at the Washington Inn in Cape May.
There is no question that dining in Skippack can be a mighty pricey proposition. And, in my opinion, many of this charming community's eateries do not serve up cuisine that is commensurate with such lethal tariffs. Park Bistro, on the other hand, is surely worth the price of admission.
September 2006
The Artful Diner
The Artful Diner writes restaurant reviews for nj.com. His most current review can be seen at http://www.nj.com/dining . An archive of past reviews for New Jersey Online can be found on this Web site at http://www.artfuldiner.com/newjersey.html .
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