New Jersey Restaurant Review
The Pacific Grille
Village II Shopping Center
1200 South Church Road
Mount Laurel, Burlington County, New Jersey
(856) 778-0909
By The Artful Diner
Special to New Jersey Online
May 13, 2002
(Restaurant Now Closed)
Pulling into the parking lot of the Village II Shopping Center, you immediately spy what appears to be an armada of taxicabs. Then you do a double take... No, it's just a fleet of cars bearing the ostentatious roof ornamentations of Papa John's take-out pizza joint. The Papa, it seems, does a pretty nifty business... But so does his next-door neighbor, The Pacific Grille, which serves up infinitely more sophisticated fare. Indeed, in an area inundated with Neapolitan nirvanas, innocuous chain restaurants, and fast-food franchises, healthful Pacific Rim cuisine is something of a culinary anomaly -- but that obviously hasn't stopped a knowledgeable clientele from indulging in its delicious delicacies.
Chef Udi Millan and her husband, Tom, first opened their doors in 1994; and business has been booming ever since. Not only is there a touch of culinary exotica present in the generous portions, but the prices are also more than reasonable (as of this writing, no entrée over $20.00), and you may tote along a vintage of your own choosing. Couple this with a warm, congenial atmosphere, and friendly, competent service, and you have a recipe for success in anyone's cookbook.
A native of Korea, Ms. Millan eschews heavy, artery-clogging butter and cream concoctions in favor of vegetable-based sauces, infused oils, snappy vinaigrettes, exhilarating meat and fish reductions, and pungent homegrown herbs. The result, of course, is an impressive array of accoutrements that gently enhance rather than obscure the natural flavors and colors of the objects of their affection.
You begin with a diminutive basket of crunchy toasted pita bread accompanied by an enticing honey curry dipping sauce. There's just the proper interplay of sweetness and spice here, a sure sign that the chef knows precisely what she is about. As noted above, plentiful the portions may be... but finesse still figures quite prominently in Ms. Millan's culinary game plan.
Soup or salad is included with your entrée and, while the latter is spruced up with a number of first-rate homemade dressings, the greenery is pretty much standard issue. For my money, the soups have infinitely more to offer. The lemon grass chicken soup is a study in savory savoir-faire: a delicate disposition belying a fervently flavorful countenance. The seafood chowder and vegetable soup, on the other hand, are more robust in nature and the perfect companions for those with heartier appetites.
Even with the complimentary curtain raisers, the appetizers -- the majority of which are most suitable for sharing -- are well worth consideration. The downright addictive special fried spinach and zippy wasabi dipping sauce made a perfect combo ($7.95). And the same may be said for the vegetable quesadillas and spicy homemade salsa ($8.95).
Sushi is also an excellent prelude to your meal. It may be ordered vegetarian-style ($3.95), with smoked salmon ($4.95), or with cooked fish and cucumber ($3.95). A combination sushi dinner, embellished with tempura or stir-fried vegetables, is also available at $15.95.
Were I asked to name Ms. Millan's signature entrée, my nod would undoubtedly go to her exquisite crab cakes ($18.95). Prepared with fresh lump crabmeat and a touch of mayonnaise, they are delicately breaded & spiced, gently sautéed, and accompanied by an invigorating aioli sauce redolent of green onion. And the salmon cakes ($18.95), it should be noted, are prepared and presented in precisely the same manner. They arrive at table in two rectangular sushi dishes, two cakes and a delicious zucchini croquette on one, the aioli, perfectly roasted potatoes and a vegetable medley -- snap peas, yellow squash, and red pepper -- on the other.
The Pacific paella ($18.95) is a unique spin on the Spanish classic, featuring clams, mussels, scallops, crab claws, lobster tail, and sausage sautéed in a white wine reduction. Pillowed by saffron rice, this delightful dish swims to table on an enormous fish-shaped platter. Of similar ilk -- and just as recommendable -- is "Magellan's Voyage" ($17.95), a plethora of seafood served on a bed of linguine dressed with a white or red blush sauce. Other piscatorial treasures include grilled Oahu shrimp coated with tangy barbecue sauce ($17.95) and grilled tuna teriyaki in the company of a California vegetarian sushi roll and tempura vegetables ($17.95).
Pacific Rim cuisine, as you have undoubtedly noticed, relies heavily upon the inhabitants of Davy Jones' locker. For those who do not wish to so indulge, however, the pickings are somewhat slim. You may, of course, always opt for the New York strip sirloin steak ($19.95) or the grilled pork loin chops ($15.50)... On the other hand, I would suggest that Ms. Millan does better work with fowl. The chicken may not be a noble bird, but the presentations here are far from mundane. Try either the gargantuan boneless, skinless breast teriyaki-style ($14.95) or the pasta California ($14.95), scrumptious egg noodles tossed with sweet peppers and onions and topped with stir-fried chicken strips and vegetables. Both are excellent.
Despite high marks, no kitchen is infallible... and there were several faux pas that surfaced during my three visits. The butternut squash soup, for instance, sported a rather odd taste and even odder consistency. This is one pottage that should have been puréed rather than muscled up with thickeners. And the Pacific brochette ($5.95) -- an appetizer skewer boasting jumbo shrimp, chicken breast, pineapple, sweet pepper, and onion -- put in an appearance rather quickly, I thought... and with good reason: It was completely uncooked! The barbecue sauce had been slathered on and all was properly prepared... but this is one skewer that escaped the fires of the grill unnoticed. A major blunder, as it was still quite early in the evening, and the crowds had not yet descended in earnest.
The other matter that needs to be seriously addressed is that of the desserts ($3.95). The great majority are commercially made and are lovingly chronicled on one of those laminated cards replete with photographs. Needless to say, they look infinitely better than they taste. Since the chef has such a penchant for serving up healthful cuisine, the inferior quality of these denouements is something of a mystery. So, in lieu of generic New York-style cheesecake or Key lime pie, what about offering a fresh fruit salad with an appropriate splash of exotic liqueur? Instead of mediocre lemon mousse cake or light/dark side of the moon concoctions, what about a refreshing sorbet or homemade ice cream?
Udi and Tom Millan preside over an excellent restaurant, and I would gladly return at a moment's notice. With just a bit of fine-tuning, however, a visit to The Pacific Grille could truly be an exceptional culinary experience. Given the current state of their bustling business, when it comes to the relatively small matter of desserts, this charming couple may be somewhat reticent to mess with success. Be that as it may, I would still suggest that, when it comes to the dining public, the first thing people tend to remember about a meal is the last thing they ingested.
Cuisine: Pacific Rim
Hours: Lunch: Tues - Thurs, 12:00 noon - 9:00 p.m.; Fri, 12:00 noon - 11:00 p.m.; Sat, 4:00 p.m. - 11:00 p.m.; Sun, 4:00 p.m. - 8:00 p.m.; CLOSED MONDAY
Credit Cards: AX, MC, V, Discover
Attire: Casual
Smoking: Smoking is not permitted in the restaurant.
Reservations: Recommended
Parking: Onsite
Alcohol: BYOB
Price: Moderate
Handicapped Accessible: Yes
