New Jersey Restaurant Review
Nonna's
211 Haddonfield - Berlin Road
Cherry Hill, Camden County, New Jersey
(856) 795-1778
By The Artful Diner
Special to New Jersey Online
2/11/02
(Note 8/2004 - Nonna's cuisine is now French)
Nonna's is brought to you by Jean and Vivian Siorentino, the same couple who originally owned the justifiably famous La Campagne -- which is quite a recommendation, indeed. Located just around the corner from their former digs, this more recent (five-year-old) venture has a slightly different flavor. Whereas La Campagne was -- and still is -- French at its core, Nonna's uses Gallic themes as subtle subtext while wooing patrons with a variety of tasty Tuscan recipes.
Like many restaurants, this attractive eatery has something of a split personality. Arrive on a quiet weeknight and, chances are, you will be seated in a diminutive space that resembles the rustic interior of a Tuscan villa. Here, a cozy intimacy prevails. On the other hand, come on a free-for-all Saturday night and you will undoubtedly find yourself chowing down in a spacious courtyard-like dining area dominated by four large murals of the Italian countryside. The atmosphere is bustling, to be sure, but still quite pleasant. No matter when you put in an appearance, however, you will find the service friendly & accommodating and the cuisine up to the mark.
The first clue that you are in for a most edifying evening at table arrives with a basket of crusty Italian bread accompanied by an extraordinary pesto topped with cloves of roasted garlic. Don't even try to resist... just slather away and enjoy.
Appetizers are particularly noteworthy. The seared foie gras ($11.50) is utterly seductive and is presented over a melted leek tart and garnished with sherry wine sauce. Equally innovative is the sautéed lobster ($11.50) served on a carrot and turnip slaw and enhanced with a perky miso sauce. The smoked salmon rosette ($9.50) spruced up with sweet potato blini and dill oil is also quite excellent.
As marvelous as these starters may be, however, the kitchen's true talent lies in the remarkable degree of finesse with which it sets forth its more Italianesque offerings. The baked antipasto ($8.50), for example, incorporates luscious layers of roasted peppers, tomatoes and prosciutto surrounded by a light fontina cheese sauce and topped with an olive tapenade. The gnocchi ($7.50) are also highly recommended. These exquisite handmade potato dumplings exhibit just the proper density and are caressed ever-so-gently by a sensuously seductive pommerola sauce. And the orecchiette pasta ($6.50), al dente "little ears," are teamed with petite peas, delicate slices of zucchini & prosciutto, and kissed by a luxuriously creamy Parmesan sauce.
Even more mundane preludes receive a new lease on life here: Broccoli rabe ($6.50) is sautéed in an ingratiating butter/olive oil emulsion and surrounded by crispy polenta ravioli; and the ubiquitous Caesar salad ($4.50) is embellished with a first-class Parmesan dressing and delightfully flavorful and crunchy croutons.
Entrées are more robust in nature than their predecessors but no less pleasing to the palate. They are also available à la carte or as a three-course dinner, which includes soup or salad and choice of the dessert of the day. This is "Comfort Food" -- as civil and as satisfying as the surroundings -- in the very best sense of that term.
The filet mignon ($26.50) is a carnivore's dream. Even though a member of our party insisted upon ordering her beef well done, it was still quite moist and simply bursting with flavor. It was also accompanied by a scrumptious potato gratin, sautéed spinach, and topped with crispy onions. The special Peking duck with red wine glaze ($24.95) was a study in savory rusticity. Delicate medium-rare slices of duck breast were fanned out around an epicenter of luscious puréed potatoes, interspersed with sautéed apple segments, and garnished with snow peas and carrots.
The hoisin-glazed pork tenderloin ($19.50) is another outstanding choice. Slices are thick and succulent, are set around a bed of Israeli cous-cous, and receive just the proper splash of color from crunchy snow peas and crisp asparagus spears.
Seafood is also quite prominent here, and you may rest assured that matters piscatorial are handled with a sure and steady hand. The cioppino ($25.50) is a classic presentation: chunks of lobster, mussels, and shrimp awash in a spicy Provençal sauce over risotto. Ditto the immensely popular lump crab cakes ($22.50) served with Israeli cous-cous, tomato compote, and spruced up with a heady shellfish broth.
In addition to the temptation posed by assorted bivalves and crustaceans, you will find the finny fare right up to snuff as well. The monkfish ($18.50), dense and delectable, is pan seared and presented with tender fingerling potatoes and finished with a provocative mushroom jus. The skate wing ($17.50) is also pan seared, spruced up with a hale-and-hearty Provençal stuffing & herb risotto, and consummated with a mussel saffron sauce. And if you're in the mood for something with an Oriental flair, be sure to try the striped bass served atop an Asian rice cake and complemented by an exotic Thai coconut sauce ($22.50).
Desserts ($6.00) carry on the lusty, homespun tradition set forth by the entrées. The Key lime pie is teamed up with pistachio ice cream, lemon and raspberry sauces, and garnished with diced cantaloupe and honeydew. An odd combo, but it works beautifully. The strawberry cheesecake is rich and creamy, and the delectable apple tart reaps the rewards of an absolutely heavenly crust and generous dollop of vanilla ice cream.
Nonna's is just the kind of restaurant that every neighborhood needs. The food is lovingly prepared and beautifully presented, comforting yet contemporary. And the pleasant surroundings and equally pleasant members of the wait staff will surely make your stay an enjoyable one.
Cuisine: French
Hours: Lunch: Mon - Fri, 11:30 a.m. - 2:00 p.m.; Dinner: 5:00 p.m. - 9:00 p.m. every evening
Credit Cards: All major
Attire: Sharp casual
Smoking: Separate nonsmoking area
Reservations: Recommended on weekends
Parking: Onsite
Alcohol: BYOB
Price: Expensive
Handicapped Accessible: Yes
