New Jersey Restaurant Review
Niecy's
RESTAURANT CLOSED
65 South Orange Avenue
South Orange, Essex County, New Jersey
(973) 275-1770
By
The Artful Diner
Special to nj.com
12/11/2000
The South Orange business district is undergoing a long overdue cultural and culinary renaissance, and Niecy's -- a two-year-old BYOB eatery just off the community's main drag -- is an integral part of this remarkable rebirth. My brother-in-law and his wife, who live just around the corner, have made this cozy restaurant their second home... and with good reason. Chef/proprietor Denise Hampton (Niecy) serves up a soothing variety of southern comestibles in surroundngs that are as comforting as the cuisine.
Joined at the hip to a liquor store, which is quite convenient for those who may have neglected to tote along their own, this spacious storefront oozes hospitality from every nook and cranny. Niecy's is an interracial, intergenerational establishment where families, couples and cultures mingle easily, sharing the convivial commonality of food that is prepared with love and devoured with infectious enthusiasm.
You begin with a basket of homemade cornbread, which is absolutely scrumptious... as are several of the appetizers. If you've never sampled southern fare, feel free to jump right in with both feet and have a go at the delectable catfish fritters ($6.95). They are lightly breaded, delicately fried and totally devoid of grease; and the accompanying tartar sauce adds the perfect complementary touch. The buffalo wings ($6.50) also make a spendid starter. Crisp and succulently meaty, there's just enough heat and smoke in the spicy Cajun sauce to keep things interesting.
I also enjoyed the salmon croquettes ($5.95), seasoned morsels set on a bed of mixed greens chaperoned by several highly anemic tomato slices. The croquettes themselves were quite tasty, but the dish was in desperate need of a snappy vinaigrette to provide the proper pizzazz. The same shortcoming was noted in the crab cakes ($8.25), which were merely ordinary and not worth the monetary outlay.
Entrees are quite palatable across the board and continue to charm patrons with their wholesome homespun simplicity. If Niecy's has a signature presentation, it is surely the Cajun shrimp scampi ($17.50). Not only is this the most expensive item on the menu (and worth it, by the way) but also the most sophisticated. Seven large, butterflied crustaceans are stylishly arrayed about a more than ample rice pilaf, the garlic parsley and Cajun sauces forming a highly unlikely but most agreeable gastronomic union.
When it comes to the other inhabitants of Davy Jones's locker, specifically finny fare, stick with what the chef does best...namely, the catfish ($13.95). It may be ordered broiled -- adorned with a spicy house Cajun sauce -- or lightly battered and fried to crispy perfection. Both renditions are highly recommended.
Chicken is also an excellent option here, available on the bone as either breast or leg portions. Our group en masse opted for the former. In all cases, we found the meat tender and mouthwateringly moist without a hint of dryness. The hickory-roasted breast ($11.95) was incredibly flavorful, the barbecued version ($11.95) appropriately zippy, and the smothered chicken ($10.95) awash in a rich (and rather salty) brown gravy.
If you're hooked on beef, the short ribs -- either barbecued or swimming in gravy -- will surely be to your liking. The main attraction for carnivores, however, is most assuredly the meatloaf ($9.95) Lean and luscious ground beef is jazzed up with a generous helping of onions, peppers and Italian seasonings. The ultimate in comfort food... and a bargain to boot.
Accoutrements are top drawer here, and you may choose two delectable side orders to accompany your entree. Decisions, decisions. The yams spruced up with maple syrup are simply wonderful. Ditto the black-eyed peas and slightly overcooked green beans. The sweet/sour collard greens are not to be missed... and that goes double for the fabulous creamy/lumpy mashed potatoes. My personal fave? The nod would have to go to the incredible baked macaroni and cheese. Just like mom used to make... only better. I wonder if Niecy would part with the recipe?
After a chow-down like this, desserts may seem superfluous. On the other hand... who can resist the sweet potato pie ($3.50), or the toothsomely seductive peach cobbler ($4.50)? Yet it is the lemon pound cake ($3.50) that ultimately steals the show; wonderfully moist, its snappy tartness totally invigorates the palate.
The only possible caveat here is the service, which is young, eager to please and more than willing, but quite inexperienced. I do know, however, that when Ms. Hampton's friend -- a totally delightful and charming woman -- is on the floor, things begin to fall into place. She moves with a fluid grace that belies the maturity of her years, and she is able to dispense coffee, bus tables, and engage you in spirited conversation with equal dexterity. She is, without doubt, one of the restaurant's most valuable assets.
Niecy's philosophy is devastatingly simple: serve the food you love at reasonable prices in a relaxed and friendly atmosphere, and diners will surely come to partake of the bounteous gifts of your table. Don't miss the opportunity to share this completely captivating culinary and cultural experience.
Cuisine: Southern
Hours: Dinner: Tues - Fri, 4:30 p.m. - 10:00 p.m.; Sat, 2:00 p.m. - 10:00 p.m.; Sun, 2:00 p.m. - 8:00 p.m.; Breakfast: Sun, 8:00 a.m. - 2:00 p.m.; CLOSED MONDAY
Credit Cards: AX, MC, V
Attire: Casual
Smoking: Smoking is not permitted in the restaurant.
Reservations: Recommended on weekends
Parking: Street parking and nearby municipal lots
Alcohol: BYOB
Price: Inexpensive/Moderate
Handicapped Accessible: Yes
The
Artful Diner is an independent, freelance food writer. His latest review and an archive of past reviews for restaurants around the country and the world can be found on this site on the
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