New Jersey Restaurant Review
Nicholas
160 Highway 35
Middletown, Monmouth County, New Jersey
(732) 345-9977
By The Artful Diner
Special to New Jersey Online
5/14/2001
After being subjected to an infinite variety of less than memorable meals at the mercy of a host of highly dubious representatives of the illustrious food service industry, it is not at all difficult to understand how a once optimistic restaurant critic may easily metamorphose into an equally pessimistic restaurant cynic. But then, just when depression is beginning to do its worst, along comes an eatery so completely extraordinary that it is capable of restoring the faith of even the most jaded hired belly... And this is, indeed, the sumptuous saga of Nicholas. A scant five months into its hopefully long and prosperous existence, it is already one of the finest culinary establishments to be found in the grand and glorious Garden State.
So don't expect gastronomic business as usual. Nicholas and Melissa Harary, whose distinguished credentials belie their youth (he, an alumnus of the CIA and former sommelier at New York City's famed Jean-Georges; she, a protégé of renowned restaurateur Danny Meyer), have unabashedly created a most civilized and cosmopolitan dining experience specifically designed to appeal to the adventurous and sophisticated of palate.
The decor is subtle and subdued -- a sedate study in creams, beiges and browns -- the service polished but ingratiatingly personable, and the cuisine... Ah, yes, the cuisine... It is utterly transcendent. Depending upon your predilections on a given evening, you may indulge yourself with two courses ($38.00), three courses ($55.00), or the six-course tasting menu ($75.00). As executive chef, Mr Harary is responsible for the warp and woof of this incredibly exciting bill of fare; and his impeccably prepared plans are brought to flawless fruition by Corey Heyer, his masterful chef de cuisine.
Like all truly magnificent dining adventures, however, you are destined to experience the "agony" as well as the ecstasy." The "agony" in this case being the conundrums of choice. Any culinary journey must begin with a single bite. But... given the rapturous possibilities... where does one begin...?
Perhaps with delicate flakes of peekytoe crab salad presented on an infectiously crunchy coriander tuile and chaperoned by a scintillating red pepper vinaigrette? On the other hand, who can resist the temptation of three breathtakingly tender rabbit ravioli imbued with prune and consummated with an intense yet delicate ginger broth infused with just a touch of sherry vinegar? In this instance, as with many of Mr. Harary's creative presentations, the broth or natural jus is poured at the very last moment, at table, ensuring optimum flavor and temperature.
For those more enterprising diners, the braised sweetbreads are all that they should be -- firm, creamy and totally sensuous -- dusted with licorice and mango and lovingly embellished with a brunoise of carrots and natural jus invigorated with port wine. And the three escargots are plump and earthy, presented out of the shell on raclette cheese crisps and then inundated beneath a savory sea of garlic soup quickened with a touch of white winegar.
As you move along to the entrées, trust me, decisions become more difficult rather than less. If you are a habitué of Davy Jones' locker, for example, you are in for a superb evening at table. The monkfish, moist and meaty, is set on a seabed of lentils, crowned with a julienne of apple and celery root, and then enveloped in lentil broth. The sea bass, absolutely pristine beneath its crispy rice crust, is garnished with long beans and grape tomatoes and finished with an exotic star anise vinaigrette
But then, just when you are telling yourself that these are undoubtedly the most gratifyingly delectable piscatorial pleasures ever to pass your lips... the kitchen appears to pull out all the stops. The halibut, kissed ever so tenderly by oven-dried tomatoes, is as pure as the driven snow and engulfed in an indescribably transporting herbal broth. Just a half step below on the thalassic scale, but still nothing short of breathtaking, is the cod filet dressed in chanterelles and fennel and caressed by a gentle wave of shellfish (mussel) broth.
Carnivorously inclined connoisseurs need have no fear, however, as these somewhat heartier offerings are also prepared and presented with the same savoir-faire. The lamb shank, mouthwateringly tender, receives a perfect point/counterpoint from fingerling potatoes and spicy carrot puree. The braised suckling pig, the pinnacle of succulent sensuality, is finesse personified, exhibiting just the proper hint of sweet/tart from an electrifying cinnamon jus and tincture of quince. And the red wine-poached tenderloin of beef, replete with a tomato fondue and homey potato galette, is yet another culinary benchmark.
Desserts -- courtesy of Jean Georges' pastry chef, Eric Huber -- are decadently delicious but discreet: poached pear in cranberry syrup with sponge cake and cinnamon ice cream; layers of ethereal caramelized pastry interspersed with fresh berries and mousseline encircled by strawberry gelée; a delicate meringue "egg" filled with passion fruit sorbet; apple and pear brioche pudding spiked with rum and adorned with an addictive caramel sauce.
There are many elegant touches that make Nicholas a marvelous vista of congenial culinary comforts... For those who do not wish to indulge their sweet tooth, there is a wonderful selection of artisanal cheeses. And then, of course, there are those incomparable "gifts" from the kitchen that truly add the coup de grace to your evening's celebratory feast: an enchanting prelude of supernal chestnut broth, or parsnip/white truffle soup served in a demitasse cup; a pre-dessert interlude of strawberry water with berries and coconut tofu presented in a martini glass rimmed with crystallized mint, or a diminutive portion of coconut and tapioca glazed with passion fruit.
What truly sets this restaurant apart, however, is its overwhelming commitment to excellence, to providing its patrons with a lovingly orchestrated harmonious gestalt. Many of the presentations are completed tableside... yet without the usual flamboyant histrionics; all is accomplished with a quiet dignity and singleness of purpose. The food is fresh and vibrant, alive with the symphonic interplay of tumultuous flavors and tantalizing textures. And yet there is a simplicity here... a clarity. You will find no ostentatiously lengthy catalog of ingredients, no contrived architectural gargoyles assaulting the eye while leaving the palate wanting. The culinary artistry is readily apparent. But it is the artistry of subtle restraint... of purity of form and of substance... of intensity of flavor.
Nicholas and Melissa Harary's passion for food is palpable... as is their passion for the fruit of the vine. And, given Mr. Harary's impressive background as sommelier at Jean-Georges, you expect more than the usual assortment of over-oaked California cabs and chardonnays -- and you are not disappointed. Mr. Harary has assembled a remarkable and prodigious prospectus of rare and fine vintages that is sure to inspire even the most dedicated oenophilist. The marvelous -- but often neglected -- wines of Alsace are prominent here, along with many exceptional white and red Burgundies & Bordeaux, and a number of extraordinary selections from Spain, Italy, and the Rhône Valley.
If you have a penchant for the pleasures of the table, you are certain to savor the epicurean delights that an evening at Nicholas will afford. Precious few New Jersey restaurants can measure up to the extraordinarily high standards that are set here. Indeed, this is urbane, sophisticated dining at its finest.
Cuisine: NewAmerican
Hours: Tues - Sun, 5:30 p.m. - 10:00 p.m.; CLOSED MONDAY
Credit Cards: All major
Attire: Sharp casual; jackets preferred but not required
Smoking: Smoking is not permitted in the restaurant.
Reservations: Essential
Parking: Onsite
Alcohol: License; extraordinary wine list
Price: Expensive
Handicapped Accessible: Yes
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