Nectar
1091 Lancaster Avenue
Berwyn, Pennsylvania
(610) 725-9000
www.tastenectar.com
Printable Copy of this Review
Mention Nectar and you tend to unleash a host of
contradictory emotions -- or so it seems. Reviews have been exceedingly positive...
but I have also encountered a number of disgruntled diners as well. You either
love it or hate, apparently; there just doesn't seem to be any middle ground in
this doctrinaire dogfight. The problem, of course, is that Nectar, like
many restaurants of its ilk, is slightly schizophrenic: There's good news and
bad news.
First the good... The setting -- all $5 million of it -- is
magnificently alluring. Proprietor Scott Morrison -- also owner of Tango in Bryn
Mawr and Basil Bistro in Paoli -- and partners Yangming owner Michael Wei, chef
Patrick Feury, wok chef Kenny Huang, and manager Henry Chu, have embellished
David Rockwell's towering 19-foot ceilings and glass-enclosed balcony with
burgundy velvet curtains, red silk lamps, and the beneficent, beguiling presence
of a $250,000 silk-screen Buddha. The atmosphere is more Manhattan than Main
Line. And the food -- some of the most outstanding Asian fusion fare I have
sampled in a good long time -- is just as ambitiously awe-inspiring as the ambiance.
Now for the bad news... Given the high ceilings, spacious
dining areas (accommodating 180 plus), and bustling bar scene, the noise level
can be formidable... And this has as much to do with the character of the
clientele as it does with the state of the acoustics. This is a restless,
jostling, loquacious Main Line mob. And even though the menu specifically
instructs patrons to take it outside should they decide to exercise their
wireless rights, many still jabber away on their cell phones like drunken
magpies. Nectar is au courant; and the scene is infinitely more
about human flora and fauna than it is about food. See and being seen is the
name of the game and, trust me, there's plenty of both going on.
Secondly, there continues to be a problem with the service --
not the servers in the dining rooms, who are obviously well acquainted with the
menu and briskly efficient (almost too briskly efficient at
times) -- specifically the host staff and the bartenders. The gentlemen
attending the host's desk would probably not be characterized as "rude"
(although, as far as I can tell not one of them has yet to crack a smile), but
the words "brusque" and "perfunctorily professional" certainly do spring to
mind. Their attitude seems to be that if you weren't gracing the premises with
your illustrious presence, there would be at least a dozen other hungry
pilgrims ready and willing to storm the gates in your absence. The bartender
encountered was another story entirely... He was simply superciliously sullen and
completely lacking in people skills. If he is still gainfully employed, it is
something of a minor miracle.
Once settled in at table, however, these irritations quickly
fade, as the gastronomic intimations of the Dalai Lama, printed at the top of
the bill of fare, set just the proper transcendental tone for the superlative
dining experience looming lovingly on the horizon: "Approach love and cooking
with reckless abandon."
But where to begin...? You certainly can't go wrong with the
starter bento for two ($16.00), as the presentation is as attractive as it is
delicious. A rectangular plate is placed before each diner with the bento in
the middle of the table. And while contents may vary from week to week, on one
particular evening, the diminutive boxes contained: a perfectly crisp vegetable
spring roll; spicy tuna sashimi on a bed of cashews, soba noodles, and wild
mushrooms partnered with a Serrano chili sake sauce; tender pot sticker
dumpling; and zippy chicken dumplings. Absolutely first-rate...
And the same may be said for the pristine nigirizushi
deluxe appetizer ($14.00) -- tuna, salmon, bass, scallop, shrimp, and eel served
up on a narrow rectangular plate. Also available as starters are rolls of tuna
($5.00), striped bass ($6.00), tuna, avocado, spicy salmon ($6.00), steak
tartare ($8.00), shrimp tempura ($8.00), and fried calamari with scallions
($8.00).
Also highly recommended is the Nectar salad ($9.00).
No generic iceberg or wilted romaine here. The presentation is a nifty Napoleon
featuring luscious layers comprised of nectarine, papaya, pickled vegetables,
water chestnuts, and cashews buttressed by Branch Creek greens and surrounded
by an incredible tandoori garam masala vinaigrette.
Entrées offer a number of impressive possibilities. You may,
for example, travel the sushi/sashimi route. And while this is most assuredly a
viable alternative, it isn't quite on the same rarified gastronomic plane as
chef Patrick Feury's innovative creations or wok chef Kenny Huang's mellifluous
magic.
Mr. Fleury's wild striped bass ($23.00), for example -- two
beautifully pan-roasted filets set on a seabed of roasted wild mushrooms and
asparagus imbued with black truffle sauce -- is nothing short of breathtaking.
And the very same may be said for his exquisitely grilled salmon partnered with
tender Napa cabbage and bold and bouncy tomato vinaigrette ($23.00).
From the wok side of the kitchen, the chicken with Chinese
broccoli, leeks, and water chestnuts ($16.00) may sound frightfully generic,
but a splendid ginger-scallion-garlic sauce transports this dish to new
heights. And a light but zippy red Thai curry sauce performs the same noble
ministrations for moist and meaty chunks of monkfish teamed with bok choy,
sugar snap peas, and Chinese broccoli ($21.00).
Those more carnivorously inclined should set their sights on
the appetizingly audacious wok tenderloin of beef spiked with Thai basil,
scallions, and assorted chili peppers ($23.00), fabulous grilled tenderloin of
venison ($29.00), or the combo of braised short ribs and hanger steak
chaperoned by a zippy Thai chili hollandaise ($23.00).
Desserts ($7.50) continue the restaurant's high standards.
Especially recommended are the decadent sticky toffee cake presented in a
diminutive skillet topped with a dollop of incredible house-made bourbon
buttermilk ice cream and the ever-changing cookie assortment -- recently
sampled: raspberry rugelach, lemon poppy shortbread, coconut chocolate
macaroon, mocha crisp, and spiced ginger thin -- served with a creamy vanilla
chai milkshake. And for the incurable chocoholic there is always the chocolate
trilogy: warm chocolate chip soufflé cake, malted milk chocolate ice cream pop,
and caramelized chocolate mousse Napoleon.
Nectar features a diverse and well conceived, albeit
somewhat pricey, wine list to complement your evening at table. Selections by
the glass aren't a cheap date either, but undoubtedly a better bet than
investing in a bottle. New Zealand's 2004 Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc ($11.95)
is a refreshingly herbaceous treat for the palate and the 2002 Burgess Chardonnay
($13.95) is an excellent choice for those who wish to travel the bold and
buttery route. Among the reds, I would especially recommend Oregon's elegant
2003 Duck Pond Pinot Noir ($11.95).
No matter how you slice and dice the numbers, a visit to Nectar
is by no means an inexpensive proposition. But is it worth the not
insignificant expenditure? In my opinion... every last penny. Despite the noise
level, clamorous clientele, and the decidedly chilly attitude on the part of
certain members of the staff, the quality of the cuisine more than compensates
for any faux pas that are likely to be encountered.
April 2005
The Artful Diner
The Artful Diner writes restaurant reviews for nj.com. His most current review can be seen at http://www.nj.com/dining . An archive of past reviews for New Jersey Online can be found on this Web site at http://www.artfuldiner.com/newjersey.html .
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