Munching Through Montreal - July 1998
My wife and I try to pay a visit to Montreal at least once a year... to take in the jazz festival, see the sights and eat. Yes, eat! Montreal is a city of some 5,000 restaurants. At one time, the vast majority of these establishments dished out nothing more than assorted permutations of French cuisine. In the last ten years, however, Montreal has become a center of cosmopolitan gastronomy. No matter how exotic or conservative your taste may be, you will certainly have no trouble finding something to please your palate. Since the exchange rate is decidedly in our favor, this beautiful city is the perfect spot for a vacation or even a weekend getaway. Should you decide to make the journey, perhaps the restaurants listed below may prove helpful...
COSTA'S, 1236 rue Mackay, (514) 933-4565 -- Costa's is one of several excellent Greek restaurants to be found in Montreal. Milos, which just opened a similar eatery in New York City, is certainly the most famous of this particular genre. However, should you prefer a personal touch and more intimate setting, Costa's certainly fills the bill. Here you may begin your meal with a wonderful appetizer of fried eggplant and zucchini or an excellent Greek salad. When it comes to entree selections, stick with the finny fare and you surely will not be disappointed. All fish is simply grilled and served up with lemon juice, a touch of olive oil and a sprinkling of capers. On our most recent visit, we encountered striped bass, sea bass and red snapper, all priced (very reasonably, I might add) by the pound. Enjoy a bottle of Greek wine... and be sure to sample the luscious homemade desserts.
LE TAJ, 2077 rue Stanley, (514) 845-9015 -- If you enjoy Indian food, you will find this eatery positively irresistible. Spacious and beautifully appointed, Le Taj delights the eye as well as the palate. The tandoor (traditional clay oven) is glass-enclosed to clearly demonstrate that the chef is preparing these tantalizing creations in the ancient manner. His specialty is northern Indian fare, which means that you will find the seasonings more tangy than incendiary. Lunch features a delicious (and inexpensive) buffet. Dinners are a la carte or prix fixe and are also extremely reasonable. The small wine list is the perfect complement to the cuisine. Highly recommended.
RESTAURANT KATSURA, 2170 rue de la Montagne, (514) 849-1172 -- This lovely Japanese restaurant enjoys a prime location just around the corner from the prestigious Ritz-Carlton Hotel. The maitre d' is tuxedoed, the waitresses kimonoed and the ambiance decidedly upscale. Unfortunately, the majority of the clientele--apart from a few impeccably dressed Japanese businessmen--see fit to darken the door in typical tourist regalia (shorts, tank tops, sneakers, gimme caps, etc.). The decor and (for the most part) the cuisine deserve better. Kasura is usually credited with introducing sushi to Montreal diners. It is no longer the novelty it once was, but it is still the biggest drawing card at this establishment. Katsura Melange, a tasty combo of tempura shrimp and veggies, is also extremely popular. Like most eateries that major in sushi or sashimi, however, cooked varieties of finny fare generally suffer by comparison. Both the salmon and swordfish, for example, tend to be overdone, gussied up with western-style carrots and broccoli and presented in a teriyaki sauce that is somewhat less than memorable. Still, Katsura is an extremely pleasant restaurant that serves up some very good Japanese cuisine. There is also a sushi bar in the back for those who arrive without benefit of reservations on a busy evening. Only chopsticks adorn the tables here. If you are unable to cope, other utensils are available upon request.
RISTORANTE DA VINCI, 1180 rue Bishop, (514) 874-2002 -- Don't let the fact that Da Vinci is located in a semi-tacky section of garish bars and exotic ethnic eateries give you pause. Fear not. Inside this stately old townhouse, all is as it should be. The welcome is warm, the wood is dark and the Northern Italian cuisine is simply wonderful. In the appetizer department, be sure to try either the eggplant-flavored gnocchi in a light tomato sauce or the angel hair pasta tossed with wild mushrooms and sun-dried tomatoes. Seafood specials are always a good bet. We recently found red snapper, arctic char, salmon and walleye. These may be prepared grilled with a touch of olive oil and lime juice, or presented in a sauce of white wine, lemon, butter and topped with chopped tomatoes. The wine list is 100 percent Italian and boasts representatives from every wine-growing region in Italy. Dessert? Share the fruit and cheese platter and sip a cup of potent espresso. A simply marvelous dining experience.
STASH'S, 200 rue St-Paul ouest, (514) 845-6611 -- A great place to stop for lunch while exploring Vieux (old) Montreal, this diminutive restauracja polska serves up ample portions of wonderful food at low, LOW prices. Here you find traditional pierogi (stuffed with either meat or cheese), placki (potato pancakes) and nalesniki (Polish pancakes filled with cheese, browned and dressed in sweet cream with cinnamon). But be sure to try the sausage salad. One or two Polish sausages are served up with mixed greens adorned with a tasty honey/mustard vinaigrette and an absolutely addictive dill potato salad. Stash's decor is as rustic and attractive as the food. There are brick and stone walls, exposed beans, colorful hanging lamps and several refractory tables and pews from an old convent. A real find!
TOQUE!, 3842 rue St-Denis, (514) 499-2084 -- Take my word for it... this is the BEST restaurant in the City of Montreal. It is French, to be sure, but California and Oriental touches add just the proper amount of innovative panache. Chef Normand Laprise is the master of what might be termed "Postnouvelle" cuisine. The food is as dazzling to the eye as it is to the palate, but the magic is in the preparation as well as the presentation, and the portions are more than adequate. Chef Laprise does marvelous things with thalassic fare (particularly salmon), as well as veal and duck... and his appetizers are not to be missed. Ditto the equally creative desserts. A marvelous wine list is certain to round out a wonderful evening. The decor is postmodern, and just as interesting as the cuisine. A wall separates smoking from nonsmoking sections. Be sure to make reservations several days in advance. Not to be missed!!
Looking for a snack? Try BOULANGERIE PREMIERE MOISSON, 1490 rue Sherbrooke ouest, (514) 931-6540. This diminutive shop serves up a variety of delicious baked goods that you may eat in or take out. Also a great spot for lunch. Be sure to try their luscious salads, sandwiches and pates.
A cocktail before dinner? The sedate atmosphere of the RITZ BAR in the RITZ-CARLTON HOTEL, 1228 rue Sherbrooke ouest, (514) 843-4212, is just perfect for a preprandial libation. Here you find piano music, extremely comfortable couches and chairs and sophisticated munchies. Looking for something a bit more on the funky side? Pay a visit to the HOTEL MANTAGNE, 1430 rue de la Montagne, (514) 288-5656. There's a music lounge that features various jazz groups. Then just follow your nose down the stairs and up again to THURSDAY'S, a pub with a lovely outdoor terrace overlooking the rue Crescent. In warmer weather, there's even an outdoor lounge and eatery on the hotel's 20th floor. If this still sounds a bit too tame, the aforementioned rue Crescent is home to a plethoric assortment of slightly funky bars and pubs, one of which is bound to tickle your fancy.
