New Jersey Restaurant Review
Inn at Millrace Pond
313 Johnsonburg Road
Hope, Warren County, New Jersey
(908) 459-4884
By The Artful Diner
Special to New Jersey Online
4/23/01
Precious few New Jersey restaurants can match the bucolic bliss of the Inn at Millrace Pond. Set on a hillside in the picturesque village of Hope, the inn incorporates three buildings with seventeen distinctive guest accommodations and charmingly rustic dining facilities. And while this eatery has engaged in a rather spirited (and somewhat detrimental) version of "Musical Chefs" over the years, Victor Diaz -- who rose up through the ranks and has been with the establishment for over seven years -- now seems to have the continental/American fare well in hand.
The main focus of attention is, of course, the gristmill, that landmark limestone building constructed between 1769 and 1770, where a massive stone wall and exposed posts and beams bask in the flickering candlelight of the formal dining room. Before settling in at table, however, be sure to descend the open staircase to the tavern below. Here you discover an enormous walk-in fireplace, grain chute, and assorted memorabilia spanning the structure's 180-year history as a working mill.
You will also find an impressive wine cellar housed next to the tavern... So you may just wish to settle back with an aperitif and check out the oenological possibilities. If you have just received a significant inheritance from a dearly departed distant relative, the 1988 Chateau Margaux ($450.00) is a comparative bargain. For the rest of us, however, there are some very nice selections at down-to-earth prices. A few personal favorites include the lush 1997 Rodney Strong Cabernet Sauvignon ($33.00), the 1997 Syrah from Fess Parker ($32.00), and a 1996 Smith and Hook Merlot ($29.00).
Returning to the dining room, you are immediately tempted by a basket of delicious homemade multi-grain bread. And nothing is a more stimulating accompaniment, especially on a chilly evening, than a piping hot bowl of soup. The toasted butternut squash soup, seasoned with cinnamon, nutmeg and a touch of cream, is pure stick-to-your-ribs enjoyment. And the roasted eggplant bisque, while somehat less robust, is no less ingratiating (both $5.00).
The salmon carpaccio ($8.00) also makes an excellent starter. Wafer-thin salmon shavings are fanned out, garnished with chopped eggs, capers, minced chives & red onions, and then drizzled with a delightfully subtle dill olive oil.
Continuing in this piscatorial vein, you might also consider the special shrimp cocktail garnished with an unusual -- but quite delicious -- Mediterranean cucumber and radish salad ($10.00). If you're feeling somewhat more adventurous, however, be sure to order the special filet of sole stuffed with lobster and langostino ($11.00). The entire package is then wrapped in proscuitto and consummated with an exotically invigorating scallion ginger sauce.
The only disappointment proved to the the complimentary salad. The mixed greens were not freshly tossed; they had obviously been pre-plated and subsequently spent an significant period of time lurking in the nether regions of the frige... Although, the homemade basil and grape ranch dressing was quite excellent. The grape tomato and feta salad ($4.00) exhibited the same tired collection of greenery. The menu description also promised a "drizzling" of tomato pesto vinaigrette. What appeared, however, were copious gobs of a viscously lethal dressing that, when teamed with the creamy feta cheese, was entirely too cloying for most palates.
But entrées were right back on target... The wonderfully moist roasted pork loin ($27.00) was stuffed with dried fruit compote and topped with an apricot glaze. It was then thickly sliced and served with a generous mound of chive mashed potatoes, spaghetti squash and baby carrots. The coup de grace was an incredibly intense cabernet demi-glace. Equally up to the mark was the tender grilled veal chop ($29.00). Stuffed with ricotta cheese, it was outlandishly rich but most satisfying.
Meanwhile, in the red meat department... The tournedos of beef ($29.00) were grilled to a perfect melt-in-your-mouth medium rare, arranged around a hub of spaghetti squash and those same delectable mashed potatoes, and finished with a superlative black peppercorn demi-glace and touch of cream. The loin of lamb ($29.00) is yet another winner. Encrusted with mustard and aux poive breading, it is then pan seared and finished with a burgundy and lamb glaze.
And if you appreciate game, this is the perfect spot to try the medallions of venison ($29.00). They are moist and succulent, not the least bit tough, and exhibit just the proper hint of the wild. They are arranged around an attractive epicenter of roasted spaghetti squash and smashed yams, finished with a tasty Chambord sun-dried cherry demi-glace, and garnished with thick slices of smoked venison sausage.
The only faux pas among the entrées was the Brohm Lake duckling ($27.00). Although the orange marjoram glaze and accompanying rice pilaf added nice touches, the boneless twin breasts were a bit overdone and on the stringy side.
Homemade desserts ($7.00/$1.50 additional for a la mode), like the majority of their predecessors, tend to be quite hearty. The sour cream walnut coffee cake is very good. Ditto the ubiquitous tiramisu and cheesecake. But the apple tart -- preferably with a scoop of vanilla ice cream -- is clearly the way to go here. A real down-home, oh so sweet ending to your meal and most suitable for sharing. Finishing in second place is the chocolate mud pie. Dense and decadent, with a brownie-like consistency, it is a trifle on the dry side, but certainly able to assuage the passions of even the most fanatical chocoholic.
The first thing you will undoubtedly notice about the Inn at Millrace Pond is the price tag. For a place stuck out in the boonies, the tariffs seem a bit on the steep side. Still, you should have no complaints. My wife and I have dined here on numerous occasions over the years, and we have always departed with tummies and psyches purring contentedly. The service is warm and friendly, the robust cuisine a perfect marriage with the rustic décor, and you can even spend the night in one of the cozy guestrooms and enjoy a complimentary continental breakfast the following morning. So pack the kids off to their grandparents... and book yourselves in for a delightfully romantic culinary excursion.
Cuisine: Continental/American
Hours: Dinner: Mon - Sat, 5:00 p.m. - 9:00 p.m.; Sun, 4:00 p.m. - 7:30 p.m.; Sunday Brunch: 11:00 a.m. - 2:00 p.m.
Credit Cards: All major
Attire: Casual
Smoking: Permitted in the tavern only
Reservations: Recommended
Parking: Onsite
Alcohol: License
Price: Expensive
Handicapped Accessible: Yes
