When Walt Filkowski, proprietor of The Mercersburg Inn, is heard to remark that his is the only restaurant with white tablecloths within fifty miles, he may be exaggerating -- but not a great deal. In point of fact, this particular area of the Keystone State is something of a gastronomic wasteland... which makes this lovely establishment such a remarkable find.
Should you be traveling from Philadelphia to Pittsburgh (or vice versa), as we were this past December, the Inn makes a perfect midpoint stopover. It is also most suitable for those seeking a romantic weekend getaway. Not only will you be treated to excellent cuisine, courtesy of Chef Jerry R. Howerin, but you may also spend the night in one of the beautifully appointed, individually decorated guestrooms and enjoy a full complimentary breakfast on the sun-filled porch the following morning.
The moment you catch a glimpse of the stately brick mansion, you realize that a wonderful experience is in store. This lovely old inn (constructed in 1909) features a slate roof, Indiana limestone sills, copper spouting, decorative tile, white oak and inlaid flooring, double curving wrought iron balustrades, and mahogany and chestnut paneling.
But on to matters gastronomic... The cuisine is infinitely more innovative than you would expect to encounter in this neck-of-the-woods, and the adventurous of palate will certainly not be disappointed... As an added attraction, you may assuage your hunger pangs in the cozy, diminutive dining room in front of a crackling fire.
Begin your culinary journey with such creative fare as curried pumpkin bisque, shiitake mushroom and Gruyère cheese strudel on a bed of warm mixed greens, or proscuitto-wrapped shrimp accompanied by baby spinach and finished with a Grand Marnier sauce. Among the special starters, both the roasted vegetable terrine embellished with baby lettuces & a rosemary citrus vinaigrette and the smoked duck breast with cranberry chutney and shaved Pecorino Romano cheese are standouts.
Among the entrées, the herb-crusted rack of lamb finished with a red wine demi-glace is always a good bet, as is the sesame-crusted salmon served up with stir-fry vegetables, scallion rice, and a sesame soy sauce. Should you be in the mood for something a bit more exotic, be sure to try the Chesapeake Bay-style crab cakes served in a tortilla basket with fried corn salad and roasted garlic aioli. Equally intriguing is the baked vegetable stacci, a roasted vegetable and polenta cake adorned with grilled tofu and consummated with a red pepper coulis.
Desserts include such delicious options as white chocolate cheesecake with a dark chocolate cookie crust, Granny Smith apple and cream cheese tart with homemade vanilla ice cream, and chocolate truffle tart with raspberry coulis.
This charming establishment also offers a very nice selection of wines by the bottle or the glass for your dining pleasure, as well as a full range of liquors for pre or postprandial enjoyment, either at table or in one of the comfortable lounges. Whatever your preference on a given evening, a cozy, intimate atmosphere pervades throughout.
Should you be in search of a weekend getaway, or simply passing through on your way from here to there, The Mercersburg Inn should be high on your romantic and gastronomic agenda. Dinner is served Thursday through Sunday only, and reservations are recommended.
The
Artful Diner
February 2002
The Artful Diner is the food critic for New Jersey Online. His most current review can be seen at http://www.nj.com/dining . An archive of past reviews for New Jersey Online can be found on this Web site at http://www.artfuldiner.com/newjersey.html .
Want to receive e-mail notification when a new review or article is posted? E-mail Artful Diner!
