Mendocino Grille and Wine Bar
2917 M Street NW
Washington, DC
(202) 333-2912
www.mendocinodc.com
As the name implies, Mendocino majors in contemporary American cuisine with subtle California subtitles - and it is very, very good.
But before settling in at table, be sure to pay a call at the sophisticated wine bar, a highly civilized scene where equally civilized adults - aka "yuppies" - come to sip and savor. The catalog of vintages contains some 200 selections by the bottle, the majority hailing from California, with over 30 possibilities available by the glass or half glass. And sommelier Nicole Saladyga and wine director Troy Bock are always on hand to make suggestions or offer insightful oenological tidbits.
Among the "Interesting Whites," the 2005 Au Bon Climat Pinot Blanc from Santa Barbara ($10.00) is a light, refreshing choice. And chardonnay lovers will definitely not be disappointed in the 2005 Ferrari Carano "Tre Terre" from the Russian River Valley ($15.00).
The reds also present a number of intriguing possibilities... At the top of the heap is the 2005 Turley "Dragon Vineyard" Zinfandel. Displaying a decided touch of elegance and marvelous depth of flavor, even priced at $23.00 per glass and $105.00 per bottle, this is definitely worth a try. It may be hard on the pocketbook, but it is also soft and supple on the palate.
Other interesting red wine choices include: 2005 Barboursville Barbera from Virginia ($11.00); 2005 Yakima Cellars Syrah from Washington State ($12.00); and 2003 DuNah "Tres Cuvee," a Syrah/Sangiovese blend, from Mendocino County ($21.00).
When you finally settle in at table, the brief blurb at the top of the menu will set the tone: "We use the best naturally-raised and organic ingredients we can find, and source from local growers, ranchers, and fishermen throughout the mid-Atlantic whenever possible." Indeed, the cuisine here, in the capable hands of executive chef Barry Koslow and sous chef Joey Alvarez, is fresh and vibrant; the combination of ingredients, innovative; the presentations, contemporary but not convoluted.
And the amuse-bouche, a silky duck mousse on country bread crostini, is surely indicative of the gastronomic joys to follow.... Maine's Johnny Blue mussels swimming in a broth of Meyer lemon, shallots, garlic, and piment d'Espelette, the fiery chili from the Basque region of France, ($12.00); sweet potato ravioli in the company of braised escarole, Virginia ham, and a provocative pecan brown butter ($12.00); salad of Bibb lettuce adorned with creamy Fourme d'Ambert cheese, grilled pears, dates, fines herbs, and a walnut vinaigrette ($11.00).
Especially notable are the country pâté ($11.00) and the braised Pennsylvania rabbit ($12.00). The former is rich & sumptuous and comes replete with house-made pickles, perfectly grilled triangles of whole grain bread, and a dash of zesty violet mustard. The latter is tender & succulent and arrives in the distinguished company of ethereal potato gnocchi, shiitake mushrooms, and shavings of Grana Padano cheese.
And entrées demonstrate an equally creative bent... olive oil poached steelhead trout with baby bok choy, glazed Chinese eggplant, and consummatory shallot-port coulis ($27.00); hazelnut- & coriander-encrusted striped bass companioned by fennel, celery, turnips, hint of tarragon, and blood orange sauce ($29.00); and for the vegetarians, grilled heart of palm with celery root purée, spinach, cauliflower, and black truffle gratin finished with a red wine-carrot sauce ($26.00).
But meat and fowl are also beautifully prepared and presented. On a chilly night, the penultimate day of February, my wife enjoyed an incomparably tender & flavorful lamb osso bucco ($28.00). Accoutrements included a marvelous creamy polenta, broccoli rabe, sweet roasted cippolini onions, and sugar snax carrots. And my Muscovy duck breast ($32.00) was every bit as appetizingly attractive. Thick, sumptuous slices were set atop a pillow of tangy red cabbage and were aided and abetted by a celeriac fondant, foie gras torchon, artistic touch of kumquat, and an utterly addictive duck jus.
Desserts are as outstanding as their predecessors... but cheese is, in my opinion, the most rewarding denouement to your evening at table. You may choose from two cheeses for $8.00; four, 16.00; six, $24.00; or the full cheese board for $38.00. Accents include spiced nuts, pineapple date preserve, and pinot noir jelly ($3.00 each, but complimentary with the full cheese board).
With its innovative, attractively presented cuisine, snappy service, top-notch vintages, and casual California ambiance, Mendocino is a winner in every respect.
