The Artful Diner - Mazar Kabab House Review

Mazar Kabab House
Restaurant Now Closed
307 Irvington Avenue
South Orange, Essex County, New Jersey
(973) 275-1500

By The Artful Diner
Special to New Jersey Online
5/28/2003

If you've never sampled Afghan cuisine, chances are you're somewhat leery, perhaps conjuring up nightmares of a pyrophoric palate followed by egregious assaults of peristaltic indisposition. But set your mind to rest... Unlike its neighbors, India and Pakistan, whose fiery curries have been known to set off ill-timed infernos in the nether regions, the food of Afghanistan, which relies heavily on vegetables, fresh fruits, nuts, and yogurts, is infinitely more subtle than incendiary. And while distinctive consolidations of herbs and spices do predominate the great majority of recipes, the results are surprisingly -- and intriguingly -- sedate.

As Helen Saberi has noted in her book, Afghan Food & Cookery: "Afghanistan has been a melting pot for a large number of cultures and traditions over the centuries, and these different influences can be detected in the variety of Afghan food and the regional specialties. (Diners) will find many similarities with Greek, Turkish, Middle Eastern, Persian, Central Asian, Indian and even Far Eastern foods and dishes." This, of course, makes an Afghan eatery the perfect stopover for those with adventurous appetites and a keen sense of culinary curiosity.

In operation a scant two months as of this writing, under the ownership of chef Abdul Hadi and co-proprietors Shafiq Rafiqi and Mohammad Jumriyani, Mazar Kabab House typifies many of the first-class Afghan restaurants that have opened their doors in the United States in recent years. The interior comes replete with arches, faux brick walls adorned with colorful native costumes & artifacts, bubbling pool, and simple yet elegant maroon and white napery. Service could use a bit of shoring up -- there is an occasional language barrier -- but the atmosphere is so utterly agreeable, the prices so utterly reasonable, and the food so utterly beguiling that you are more than willing to forgive the members of the wait staff an occasional misstep.

Mr. Hadi's kitchen, on the other hand, is right on track. And the first thing you notice is that appetizers and entrées take the proper amount of time to put in an appearance at table... Not so short as to suggest that they'd been growing pale and wan in the clutches of a warming bin or heat lamp... and not so long as to raise questions regarding the chef's whereabouts. No, the pace is just right... as if the food itself.

An excellent way to begin your meal is with the various boulanee ($2.99), fried turnovers that are wonderfully crisp yet not at all greasy. The principal version of this delicacy is filled with gandana, a very popular vegetable/herb in Afghanistan. In this country, leeks or scallions are substituted; at Mazar, it is the latter... and the results are delightfully distinctive. Ditto the kadu, which are fortified with a fabulously flavorful combo of mashed pumpkin and blend of herbs and spices. On the other hand, the kachalou, incorporating mashed potato, could use decidedly more zip.

If you would prefer steaming to frying, the pasta dumplings are also highly recommended. These silky pockets may be filled with humble ingredients... but the results are far from mundane. Ashak ($4.50) are adorned with chopped scallions and embellished with a zesty tomato sauce that finds a perfect foil in a cool, creamy yogurt. Mantu ($4.75) are packed with minced beef and onions and topped with yogurt and a hearty meat sauce.

A personal favorite among the starters is the shour nakhod ($2.75), a tasty variation of the salad often sold by Afghan street vendors. Tender diced potatoes are combined with chickpeas and spring onions. What makes this dish so special, however, is the light and delicate vinaigrette infused with just a hint of mint.

When it comes to entrée selections, as you might expect, kebabs are tremendously popular. These skewered morsels of meat, fish, or fowl are marinated for extended periods in yogurt and spices and then grilled (although some may be fried of baked in a tandoor or other type of oven).

And since lamb -- either cubed, minced, or on the bone -- is the favored meat of Afghanistan, it is always better to swim with the tide rather than against it. My order of preference would be: tikka kebab ($10.50), exceedingly tender, succulent cubes; choopan kebab ($10.50), lamb chops; or Mazar kebab ($9.95), a combo of boiled and grilled lamb.

The chicken kebab ($9.50) -- moist boneless morsels -- is also quite good... ditto the combination kebab ($10.95), featuring chicken, lamb, and ground beef. Since Afghanistan is landlocked and finny fare is not part of the regular diet, Afghan cooks have little experience with regard to piscatorial preparation -- and it shows. The fish kebab offered here is the ubiquitous Atlantic salmon ($10.50)... and it is somewhat less than memorable.

But kebabs are only part of the story. Rice holds a prominent place in Afghan cookery, and chefs are mighty persnickety about how it turns out. Unlike the short-grained glutinous glop often found in scruffy little Chinese take-out joints, exceedingly flavorful long-grained basmati rice is cooked al dente until each and every kernel is capable of standing on its own. As a point of reference, entrées that end with the word chalow are served with white basmati rice; those that end with palow are served with brown basmati rice (which is, in reality, white rice colored with cinnamon and cumin or, occasionally, sugar and saffron).

Among these offerings, the narieng palow ($11.00), brown rice prepared with orange peels, saffron, almonds & pistachios, and served with grilled morsels of lamb kebab, is a particularly delightful dish exhibiting a decided hint of sweetness. I am also quite fond of the kabli palow ($10.50), which is topped with shredded carrots, raisins, and served with a lamb shank and semi-spicy and incredibly tender lamb curry that has been cooked with a combo of tomato, pepper, herbs & spices, and yogurt. It should be noted that chicken, lamb, meatball, and spinach & lamb curries are also available as sides ($5.00), and all are highly recommended.

Vegetarian dishes, which are served with generous pilafs of white or brown basmati rice, should also not be overlooked, as they are invariably well prepared and awash with exotic flavors and aromas. Gulpi ($7.95), incredibly tender cauliflower florets, are sautéed with onion, tomato, and green pepper and arrive swimming in a light tomato broth. Sabzy ($7.95), cooked spinach spruced up with minced onion and a touch of cilantro, is also quite good. The vegetable combo ($8.95) -- okra, eggplant, and spinach -- is the perfect choice for those who may have difficulty making up their minds; and lobya ($5.95), a zesty casserole of baked red kidney beans, will surely appeal to those who like it hot.

Desserts may not set off an effusive chorus of bells and whistles, but they are a cool and comforting conclusion to your meal. Firni ($2.25), for instance, is a milky and mellifluous non-egg custard made with rice flour and topped with a sprinkling of cardamom; and a refreshing homemade ice cream ($3.00) is embellished with rose water and pistachios. There is also bakhlawa ($2.25), the Afghan version of that sweet, multi-layered Middle Eastern pastry garnished with honey and nuts.

No visit to an Afghan restaurant would be complete without a pot of green or black tea ($3.00). Coffee is also listed on the menu but is seldom available.

If you have never been properly introduced to Afghanistan's culinary treasures, a visit to the Mazar Kabab House should prove a most enlightening and enjoyable experience.

Cuisine: Authentic Afghan
Hours: Tues - Fri, 4:30 p.m. - 10:00 p.m.; Sat & Sun, 11:30 a.m. - 10:00 p.m.; CLOSED MONDAY
Credit Cards: AX, MC, V
Attire: Casual
Smoking: Smoking is not permitted in the restaurant.
Reservations: Accepted
Parking: Street parking
Alcohol: BYOB
Price: Inexpensive/Moderate
Handicapped Accessible: Yes