New Jersey Restaurant Review
Louisa's Cafe
104 Jackson Street
Cape May, Cape May County, New Jersey
(609) 884-5882
By The Artful Diner
Special to New Jersey Online
5/22/00
Louisa isn't exactly enthusiastic about publicity -- she feels it keeps her regular customers away -- which is undoubtedly why she doesn't bother to advertise... But word gets around. This tiny, cramped BYOB is near the top of just about everybody's Cape May dining agenda... and with good reason. The atmosphere is decidedly funky, the well-prepared cuisine decidedly diverse, and the prices decidedly modest.
The building itself is a ramshackle affair that could do with a fresh coat of paint and a general sprucing up... and the interior isn't much of an improvement. The nautical decor is garish in color, supplemented by plain white paper napkins and a host of mismatched crockery and utensils. A rickety staircase leads to the restroom on the second floor. The dining area seats a scant twenty patrons, and they are packed in like sardines. So be forewarned... if you are subject to bouts of claustrophobia, you would do well to throw on the feedbag elsewhere. On the other hand, those of a gregarious nature will find the diminutive quarters most conducive to the sharing of conversational pleasantries with their neighbors.
There are no printed menus, the blackboard tells the story. A few items, such as finny creatures, may change nightly, but a goodly number are culinary constants. While perusing the possibilities, you will be treated to a scrumptious herb focaccia, which goes extremely well with the chickpea spread ($1.75) when it is available. This is similar to hummus, though it is not quite as dense and sports a bit less garlic.
Many of the starters ($5.75) appear to have taken up permanent residence on the menu; although all -- whether old favorites or relative newcomers -- are worthy of attention. Louisa's crab soup, redolent of cream and appropriate seasonings, is justly famous in these parts. Ditto the ginger sesame noodles. This dish is enhanced with a wonderfully rich peanut sauce and sprinkled with peanuts and diced cucumbers. And, among the specials, I would heartily recommend the chilled leeks. These pungent members of the lily family are prepared to mouthwatering perfection, sliced crosswise into tasty morsels, and embellished with a tangy vinaigrette.
Louisa's salads ($5.75) are also a big hit. No Styrofoam, anemic tomatoes here. During the Garden State's glorious growing season, you are treated to meaty, fresh-from-the-garden Jersey beefsteaks. And, even when local produce has breathed its last, the establishment's plum tomatoes are infinitely superior to the representatives I have encountered elsewhere. So set your sights on a New Jersey tomato salad abounding with copious chunks of salty feta cheese, slices of red onion, and tossed with a yummy homemade vinaigrette. And the romaine salad overflowing with tasty nuggests of Gorgonzola is equally appealing.
Fish are quite prominent among the entrees, and the choices change with the whim of the chef and market availability. Thus, you may encounter a luscious grilled mahi mahi accompanied by a roasted red pepper sauce with touches of garlic and cayenne ($14.50), or shad and shad roe complemented by a subtle tomato vinaigrette ($16.50). Sea trout, also known as Jersey weakfish, is pristine of countenance, delicate of texture, and receives a significant jolt from a sharp and snappy dill/horseradish sauce ($14.50). On the other hand, if you prefer your fish of a different color, be sure to try the dark and delicious bluefish decked out in hot spices or a papaya mustard sauce ($14.50).
For confirmed landlubbers, I highly recommend the tagliatelle ($11.50). But no run-of-the-mill pale and wan tomato sauce here. Rather, your pasta is tossed with ripe chunks of Jersey tomatoes, garlic, and copious morsels of pungent feta cheese. Simple and superb. As are the vegetable cakes ($10.50). Potato patties are filled with a variety of chopped veggies, fried in olive oil, and served up with spicy catsup. Down-home good. But if you really want to tantalize your taste buds, check out the grilled chicken marinated in Jamaican jerk spices ($12.50). Guaranteed to clear your sinuses... and definitely not for the faint of palate.
All entrees, with the exception of the pasta, are served up with bland-leading-the-bland brown rice and a scrumptious "healthy" cole salw (sans mayo) accented with cilantro. I should also add that all sauces (again, with the exception of the pasta) are served in ramekins on the side. Although this form of presentation may seem somewhat out of place in many highfalutin' establishments, it fits in quite well here.
The homemade desserts ($3.50/$1.50 additional for a la mode) are all designed to have your stomach -- and your psyche -- purring contentedly. The apple cinnamon crumble, for instance, is a bounteous affair and is simply wonderful in a comfortable old-fashioned sort of way. Louisa's chocolate pie garnished with strawberries is both dense and delicious, sports a delectable crust, and is crowned with real whipped cream. The king of sweet endings, however, is undoubtedly the heart-warming vanilla bread pudding. And it is consummated with an appropriately decadent brown sugar/whiskey sauce. Espresso is not available, but both the coffee ($1.95) and the decaf ($2.25) are all that they should be.
There is no question that Louisa's marches to the beat of a different culinary drummer. But if you're in the mood for a meal that's down-home good, served in an atmosphere that's both funky and fun, and at tariffs that won't put a major dent in your wallet, you owe it to yourself to pay a call at this wonderfully eccentric eatery. You won't be disappointed.
Cuisine: Eclectic
Hours: Summer: Tues - Sat, 5:00 p.m. - 9:00 p.m.; Early Spring & late Fall: Fri - Sat, 5:00 p.m. - 9:00 p.m.; Closed in Winter; Be sure to call for hours in the off season.
Credit Cards: CASH ONLY
Attire: Very casual
Smoking: Smoking is not permitted in the restaurant.
Reservations: Mandatory; reservations are held for five minutes only.
Parking: Adjacent metered municpal lots
Alcohol: BYOB
Price: Inexpensive/Moderate
Handicapped Accessible: No
