The Artful Diner - Lila Restaurant Review Frenchtown NJ New Jersey

New Jersey Restaurant Review

Lila

Restaurant Now Closed
31 Race Street
National Hotel
Frenchtown, Hunterdon County, New Jersey
(908) 234-996-4871

By The Artful Diner
Special to New Jersey Online
December 22, 2003

Lila is a restaurant suffering from an identity crisis. On the one hand, it tries hard (almost too hard, I might add) to posture itself as a semi-sophisticated dining destination majoring in upscale regional American cuisine (at upscale prices); on the other side of the menu, it also freely flaunts its laid back, nitty-gritty, folksy side to the townies and tourists who wander in for more casual fare. This form of culinary prestidigitation has been known to work quite effectively -- at The Frenchtown Inn just down the street, for instance -- but it requires a tremendous amount of skill and coordination, at the front of the house as well as in the kitchen, and, at the present moment, Lila simply doesn't seem up to the task. For while the grab n' growl "pub grub" generally acquits itself reasonably well, pricier entrées lack focus and finesse... and the service continues to be a sticky wicket.

The reason for this state of affairs is something of a mystery, as proprietors Bill and Tisha Downes certainly have enough miles under their belts to know the ins and outs of the eatery game: he, the former executive sous chef at the Molly Pitcher Inn in Red Bank; she, raised in a restaurant family that still operates several establishments in the Trenton area. And the charming rusticity of the National Hotel -- a Frenchtown fixture since 1851 -- replete with a lovely antique bar, simply adorned dining area, and cozy rathskellar, provides the perfect venue for spirited gastronomic pursuits... And yet, something just doesn't jell.

The service for starters... On one occasion, our server, the winner of the actor Edward Norton look-alike contest, did a reasonably competent job... but he addressed all his patrons, both male and female, as "youz guys" and constantly complained that he was entirely too rushed to explain the various menu items, pour wine, deposit the check with reasonable alacrity, etc.

During another visit, the young woman in attendance simply hadn't a clue. Appetizers took an inordinate amount of time to reach the table; and then, you guessed it, within a few short minutes up popped the entrées. The poor dear just couldn't understand why we might be somewhat perturbed. But she did have the good sense to report our displeasure to Mrs. Downes, who promptly promised free desserts for our inconvenience... which our server then proceeded to add to the bill. On the other hand, the bartender neglected to add the two glasses of wine we had enjoyed at the bar before moving to our table. A significantly less than amusing comedy of errors.

Of course, all might be forgiven -- or at least winked at -- were the cuisine up to snuff. However, as noted above, for the most part, this is not the case. And while several of the starters and various representatives from the pedestrian side of the menu have a good deal to recommend them, the innovative (and infinitely more expensive) entrées generally make a rather poor showing.

Among the starters, the Maryland crab cakes ($13.00) should surely be your first choice. Crisp, succulent, and marvelously devoid of filler, three diminutive cakes surround an epicenter of pickled cucumber salad and are interspersed with dabs of an engaging Dijon aïoli. Excellent in every respect and obviously the kitchen's high-water mark. The cornmeal-crusted scallops chaperoned by a spicy remoulade ($11.00) come in a close second, and the Cajun catfish fritters spruced up with Old Bay tartar sauce ($8.00) a distance third.

Other options include the Moroccan marinated beef and vegetables with noodles ($10.00), which sounds exotic but is really rather plebian, and the standard issue vegetable pot stickers with wasabi soy sauce ($7.00). Neither is terribly exciting.

Entrée selection requires prudence personified. There are some rewards to be had... but also a significant number of booby traps as well. Take the grilled rib-eye steak ($25.00), for instance... In most establishments this would be considered a pretty safe bet; but here it is an unmitigated horror. The huge slab of beef is plopped down on an equally huge glob of bacon mashed potatoes and topped with a mixed pepper pico de gallo. It is, without doubt, one of the most unattractive presentations I've ever laid eyes on... and it doesn't do a great deal for the palate either. Ordered medium rare, it arrives well done; fat and gristle are very much in evidence, and anything approximating flavor is purely coincidental.

Seafood items are something of a mixed bag but infinitely preferable to the carnivorous calamity noted above. The cioppino ($28.00) -- shrimp, mussels, clams, and a lobster tail swimming in a first-rate tomato-saffron broth -- is quite good, although the mussels are inordinately sandy. Among the finny creatures, the broiled salmon filet partnered with a zippy horseradish potato salad ($21.00) is also a solid choice.

The special pan-seared Chilean sea bass ($24.00), on the other hand, is more problematic. It is a touch underdone (this is one species that should most assuredly be cooked through) and also under seasoned; taste-wise it has absolutely nothing to offer. A seabed of tomato orzo spruces things up considerably... but not so the bland-leading-the-bland threads of broccolini, which would have benefited greatly from a touch of garlic and/or other assertive condiments.

Pastas seem to be the kitchen's strong suit; entrée-wise, therefore, this would appear to be your most propitious course of action. The fettuccine embellished with shrimp and spinach and tossed with lemon-herb pesto ($21.00) is an excellent choice. And the very same may be said for the rigatoni with roasted peppers, almonds, black olives, and feta cheese ($18.00) and the penne with prosciutto, sun-dried tomatoes, and roasted garlic jus ($18.00).

Desserts, some made in house, some imported (obviously the former are to be preferred, so be sure to query your server), offer a number of solid possibilities. The peach cobbler ($7.00) is simplicity itself and a winner in every respect. And the decadent caramel brownie sundae ($8.00) is highly recommended for those with an exorbitantly sweet tooth. On the other hand, the cheesecake ($7.00), in whatever guise it may appear, is completely generic and not worth the extra calories or the added expenditure.

As you may have noticed, should you choose to travel the traditional appetizer-entrée-dessert route, you may end up putting a significant dent in your wallet. In point of fact, on one occasion, including two glasses of wine apiece, tax, and tip, my wife and I breached the $150.00 mark. And that -- given the variable quality of the food and iffy service -- is a mighty poor bang for your hard-earned buck. Especially when you consider that you can waltz down the street to The Frenchtown Inn and enjoy infinitely superior cuisine, infinitely superior service, and an infinitely more comfortable atmosphere -- all at comparable tariffs (maybe even a few dollars less).

If you have your heart set on dining at Lila, take my advice and keep things as simple as possible. Stick with the few well-chosen appetizers noted above or the "pub grub" -- grilled sirloin burger with caramelized onions and Gruyere cheese ($9.00), grilled chicken sandwich with lemon thyme aïoli ($8.00), and the completely addictive seasoned French fries with cheese ($4.00 -- then order yourself up a couple of brews or glasses of vino and call it a day.

Cuisine: Innovative American/Pub Grub
Hours: Lunch: Mon - Sun, 11:30 a.m. - 3:00 p.m.; Dinner: Sun - Thurs, 5:00 p.m. - 9:00 p.m.; Fri & Sat, 5:00 p.m. - 10:00 p.m.
Credit Cards: All major
Attire: Casual
Smoking: Smoking is permitted in the bar only.
Reservations: Recommended on weekends
Parking: Street parking, nearby municipal lot
Alcohol: License
Price: Moderate/Expensive
Handicapped Accessible: Steps at entrance