New Jersey Restaurant Review
Le Rendez-vous
520 Boulevard
Kenilworth, Union County, New Jersey
(908) 931-0888
By The Artful Diner
Special to New Jersey Online
August 12, 2002
Printable Copy of this Review
Ten intimate tables bathed in the soft, muted glow of recessed lighting... a rustic brick wall... a beguiling array of French prints. Incredible bistros like this seem to be found on nearly every street corner in Paris. In this country, however, they are rarities, indeed. Amid the plastic glitz and glitter of our all-too-impoverished restaurant experiences, Le Rendez-vous serves to remind us that extraordinarily fine casual dining is, thank goodness, still alive and well in the Garden State.
I first visited this charming BYOB eatery in February of 1997, just a few short months after its opening, and returned on numerous occasions during the next several years. Due to a variety of mitigating circumstances, however, I was unable to post a review at that time. But two more recent sojourns have, at long last, afforded me opportunity to share my observations with regard to one of my all-time favorite culinary haunts.
Some establishments are absolute dynamite out of the box, but, as the years go by, they quickly lose their gastronomic momentum. Others -- like Le Rendez-vous -- mature with the style and grace of a fine Bordeaux. From the very outset, Chef Sami Elsawi's French/Mediterranean fare exhibited a definitive touch of class. Recently, however, he really appears to have hit his stride. His presentations are more alluring, his choice of ingredients more sophisticated, his seasonings more subtle. No matter what your predilection on a given evening, I can assure you that neither your eye nor your palate will be disappointed.
Appetizer-wise, why not begin at the summit...? The lightly seared and utterly sensual foie gras ($14.00) is set on islands of Riesling polenta and surrounded by a sybaritic sea of fig/porto sauce dotted with atolls of fresh fig halves. An incredibly decadent and delicious indulgence.
Somewhat more down to earth -- but no less sublime -- are the delicate, sweet flakes of crab salad ($12.50) kissed by a celestial red pepper dressing and garnished with rouille (a tangy Provençal mayonnaise). Continuing on this piscatorial theme, you also can't go wrong with the molasses-glazed gravlax surrounding an epicenter of baby spinach invigorated with a tangy mustard dressing ($8.00) or the luscious tuna tartare presented on a bed of seaweed confit ($9.00).
Especially during the warmer weather, you may wish to commence your meal with one of the establishment's superlative salads. The most straightforward -- but far from ordinary -- offering is the salad of baby greens enhanced with a zippy shallot vinaigrette ($7.00). You might also consider the Belgian endive ($8.50). Its endemic bitterness finds just the proper point/counterpoint via Roquefort cheese, caramelized pecans, and walnut dressing.
Entrées -- whether meat, fish, or fowl -- present knowledgeable and adventurous diners with a host of intriguing possibilities. Indeed, Chef Sami always seems to come up with ingenious new ways to surprise and delight his many loyal patrons. His duck breast ($24.00), for example, is absolutely superb. Moist, tender slices are fanned artistically and find their perfect complement in diminutive morsels of sweet potato gnocchi. But the pièce de résistance is an extravagant kumquat lemon honey sauce that utterly bewitches the palate.
Equally enticing are the sumptuous slices of pork tenderloin ($25.00) teamed with a rich potato purée, roasted baby beets, and baby carrots. Once again, however, it is the savvy saucier who provides the consummating touch, courtesy of a supernal port wine reduction and plum confit. Even an often ho-hum filet mignon, accentuated by an assertive sage sauce and carrot purée, is imbued with a definitive sense of style and panache.
Given this establishment's illustrious French/Mediterranean lineage, you would naturally expect seafood to hold a prominent place... and you will not be disappointed. You may, for instance, sample such delightful offerings as sesame-crusted tuna accompanied by perfectly grilled seasonal vegetables and a zippy wasabi sauce ($26.00) or a delicately-textured loup de mer (sea bass) sporting a delicious Vierge sauce (a compound sauce made from a béchamel blended with artichoke purée and finished with whipped unsweetened cream) and leek confit ($24.00).
If you really want to go for broke, however, I would highly recommend the special bouillabaisse Marseillaise ($25.00), tasty chunks of salmon, tuna, loup de mer, and shrimp swimming in a light and titillating broth. A wonderfully exciting rendition of this venerable classic.
Desserts, you may rest assured, carry on the kitchen's good work. In this regard, always be on the lookout for the "Tart of the Day" ($8.00). On one occasion, you may be treated to a lovely array of mixed berries accompanied by a provocative bay leaf ice cream; on another, tangy lemon in the passionate embrace of wild strawberries. Chocoholics may assuage their hunger pangs with either the Chambord chocolate raspberry mousse cake ($8.00) or the warm chocolate ganache cake ($9.00). This latter selection requires twenty-five minutes of preparation but is surely worth the wait. And for those with a not-so-sweet tooth, I would suggest a very nice cheese course for two ($12.00).
Le Rendez-vous attracts an intriguing and decidedly diverse clientele. And the vintages that are chauffeured along are as well-heeled as many of the patrons. You see a bottle of Verve-Cliquot being popped here, a Lafite-Rothschild decanted there. The atmosphere may be casual, but these folks are deadly serious about both their comestibles and their libations. Raid your cellar or pick a winner from your local retailer; the cuisine here is worthy of the very best the fruit of the vine has to offer.
If I have one infinitesimal regret with regard to this classy establishment -- which, I freely confess, scores extremely high on my personal culinary Richter scale of Garden State eateries -- it is the fact that, given its immense popularity and significant spatial and acoustical limitations, its marvelous intimacy is, unfortunately, often swallowed up in a hectic and harried decibel level that all too quickly approaches meltdown range... On the other hand, if you've ever had the pleasure of dining in a cramped and cacophonous Paris bistro, Le Rendez-vous will seem positively calm and commodious by comparison. Go and enjoy!
Cuisine: French/Mediterranean
Hours: Lunch: Tues - Fri, 11:30 a.m. - 2:00 p.m.; Dinner: Tues - Thurs, 5:30 p.m. - 9:00 p.m.; Fri & Sat, 5:30 p.m. - 10:00 p.m.; Sun, 5:00 p.m. - 8:00 p.m.; CLOSED MONDAY
Credit Cards: MC, V
Attire: Casual
Smoking: Smoking is not permitted in the restaurant.
Reservations: Essential
Parking: Ample street parking
Alcohol: BYOB
Price: Expensive
Handicapped Accessible: Extremely difficult
www.lerendez-vousnj.com
