Lemaire
The Jefferson Hotel
101 West Franklin Street
Richmond, Virginia
(804) 788-8000

http://www.jeffersonhotel.com/dining_lemaire.htm

A Richmond landmark since 1895, the Jefferson remains a bastion of Old World civility. And its culinary roots run deep. This venerable hostelry's premiere restaurant echoes the name of Etienne Lemaire, who served as maître d'hôtel to Thomas Jefferson from 1794 through the end of his presidency. Jefferson was known for his appreciation of the fruit of the vine, and Lemaire is widely credited with introducing Americans to the fine art of cooking with wine. In addition, the Jefferson's grand ballroom also provided the cozy venue for Louis Malle's provocative 1981 film My Dinner With Andre.

Restaurant Lemaire — one of fewer than thirty-five North American eateries to receive the prestigious AAA Five-Diamond Award and surely one of the finest dining establishments in the state of Virginia — is ensconced in rooms that originally comprised the ladies' parlors. There are eight separate nooks and crannies (accommodating 118 patrons) from which to choose, but you would do well to prevail upon the powers-that-be to seat you in the wide-windowed conservatory that overlooks West Franklin Street. It is bright and airy by day, delightfully romantic at night, and infinitely more conducive to fine dining than several of the other slightly claustrophobic ports-of-call.

Native son Walter Bundy, a graduate of the New England Culinary Institute and alumnus of Thomas Keller's famous French Laundry kitchen, assumed the reins as executive chef in May 2001. Mr. Bundy characterizes his intriguing approach to cookery as "upscale Southern cuisine with a French twist." And this is, indeed, a very apt description, as he utilizes only the freshest possible ingredients that Richmond and the Tidewater region have to offer — Byrd Mills stone ground grits, Chesapeake Bay oysters, Summerfield Farms spring lamb, Kite's Smithfield country ham — and imbues them with his own unique Gallic/international flair.

That being said, however, don't expect the usual gratuitous gastronomic fanfare: no silver domes gleaming in the candlelight... no architectural eyesores... no superfluous supplements. Presentations are artistic without being ostentatious; most appetizers and entrées arrive at table on simple yet elegant white rectangular plates. The culinary constituents themselves, so creatively coalesced, offer proof once again that pizzazz doesn't have to be pretentious.

The amuse-bouche is simplicity itself... roasted red pepper soup served in a gleaming white demitasse cup. But the color is so rich and deep, the flavors and aromas so utterly intense — ever so gently assuaged by a snowy tiara of Pernod mousse — that all of one's senses are beneficently beguiled.

Appetizers are particularly indicative of the chef's ability to combine a wide variety of diverse components into seamless sybaritic gestalts. The jumbo lump blue crab cakes ($14.00), for example, are beautifully seared, succulent and sweet and all crab, as you would expect. But then they are juxtaposed with a sensuously seductive dollop of parsnip purée... and a crunchy crown of Granny Smith apple slaw exquisitely counterpoises both the textural richness of the crustacean and the uniquely dynamic flavor of the root vegetable. An equally appealing consummatory color contrast is provided by semicircular splashes of red & yellow pepper butter and basil oil.

In another riveting rendezvous, the tumultuously tart acidity of fried green tomatoes goes mano a mano with the subtle saltiness of thin tangles of Smithfield ham ($10.00). The result — through the mellifluous ministrations of a creamy buttermilk/blue cheese dressing, tiara of sunflower shoots, and smattering of peanuts — is an extraordinary mélange of tastes and textures.

Entrées present a number of pleasing prospects: grilled Black Angus beef tenderloin in the company of roasted beets, baby spinach, goat cheese potato mousse, and green leek cream ($36.00); shiitake/fennel seed-crusted free-range chicken ($23.00); Highland Country maple-glazed pork chop ($24.00); and Yukon gold potato gnocchi garnished with summer vegetables, Parmigiano Reggiano, and extra virgin olive oil ($21.00).

But in the warm, muggy weather that characterizes the Virginia summer — the time of our visit — the fruits of the sea seem infinitely more appealing. And the diver scallops ($29.00) prove to be a most auspicious selection. Two rich and meaty jumbo bivalves are succulently seared and then plated at either end of a moist rectangle of Anson Mills polenta cake. The Surrey Country sausage/sugar snap pea/sweet corn "succotash" provides an ebullient embellishment, the early season tomato vinaigrette a pleasurably pungent splash of color.

... And the butter-basted black grouper ($30.00) is no less a palate-pleaser. Moist and flaky of countenance, it is set on a sumptuous seabed of scallion/saffron/fingerling potato hash and topped with a dollop of tangy tomato jam. An intensely prismatic and flavorful truffled pea coulis provides a provocative finishing touch.

Desserts, it should be noted, are no less extraordinary than their predecessors. The banana/rhubarb charlotte ($8.00) is lovingly embraced by delicate chocolate ladyfingers and kissed by a pecan/whiskey anglaise. A dollop of citrus sorbet proffers a refreshing counterpoise to the sweetness of the charlotte and creaminess of the anglaise. And nothing is more cooling in the heat of summer than Lemaire's temptingly tart and tangy frozen Key lime "soufflé" ($8.00). In this instance, the counterpoints are courtesy of a rhubarb compote, mango coulis, and decadent Grand Marnier anglaise. One may, of course, also choose from an impressive array of foreign and domestic cheeses garnished with fresh fruit.

The service, as you would expect, is completely commensurate with the sumptuously sedate surroundings and exceptional quality of the cuisine; it is both charmingly personable and consummately professional yet not the least bit stuffy or condescending. But there are also a number of other little amenities that will add immeasurably to your dining experience: The restaurant, for example, boasts a world class wine list; complimentary bottled spring water is poured throughout your meal; and a lovely arrangement of petits fours provides a delightful denouement to your evening at table.

It should also be noted that this fine establishment offers a tempting five-course tasting menu priced, as of this writing, at $65.00 per person ($95.00 per person with appropriate wine pairings). For a lover of fine food and wine, no visit to Richmond would be complete without partaking of the sensuously sybaritic pleasures of Lemaire. But even if you are not staying in the immediate area, this is one restaurant rendezvous that is surely worth a pilgrimage.

The Artful Diner
July 2004

The Artful Diner Diner is a freelance food writer who writes restaurant reviews for nj.com. His latest review can be seen on his nj.com weblog at http://blog.nj.com/artful_diner/. An archive of past reviews for nj.com as well as reviews for restaurants around the country and the world can be found on this Web site at http://www.artfuldiner.com/reviews .

Want to receive e-mail notification when a new review or article is posted? E-mail Artful Diner!

Home	Reviews	Forum	Artful Blogger