New Jersey Restaurant Review
Lawrenceville Inn
2691 Main Street (Route 206)
Lawrenceville, Mercer County, New Jersey
(609) 219-1900
Note: As of September 2007, the Lawrenceville Inn is focusing exclusively on privately held catered affairs and pre-planned culinary experiences such as wine dinners, food education and cooking classes. Visit www.lawrencevilleinn.com for a calendar of events.
By
The Artful Diner
Special to nj.com
December 12, 2005
Printable Copy of this Review
From its inception, a scant two years ago, the Lawrenceville Inn
has enjoyed the reputation of serving up sophisticated contemporary American
cuisine in a stylishly rustic historic setting. And a number of chefs with
impeccable credentials have all added substantial contributions to the cause.
However, based upon three recent visits, Le Clere English, the current power
behind the stove who arrived in mid June (2005), has succeeded in taking the
cuisine one step beyond in a very short period of time.
Mr. English, the former sous-chef at Rat's in Hamilton, brings a delicious
sense of savoir-faire to the party. He seems to understand intuitively
the subtleties of culinary engagement: pleasuring the eye without overstepping
the boundaries into the never-never land of outrageous ostentation. And there's
substance here as well as form; his seasonally-inspired offerings are as
scrupulously prepared as they are attractively presented.
During the summer months, for example, you may start things off with an
exquisite presentation of grilled calamari ($15.00). Two open-faced, remarkably
tender cylindrical representatives are chilled and stuffed with a delicious
combo of minced shrimp and cod. These, in turn, are set on a seabed of arugula
imbued with a light dressing, while dabs of roasted red pepper provide a lively
finishing touch.
The sweet English pea terrine ($15.00) is another strikingly unusual warm
weather prelude. A disc of perfectly cooked green peas floats in the center of
a pool of chilled pea soup surrounded by an armada of roasted shallots and
crowned with a tiara of crispy pearl onions. The soup itself, enlivened with a
tincture of mint, is a savory and sensual revelation.
Speaking of sensuality... nothing quite matches the seductive powers of
seared foie gras. This is especially true in autumn, as Mr. English
marries its silky countenance with an alluring array of sautéed Terhune apples
and cider gelée ($18.00) The wild mushroom risotto ($15.00) is another
fall crowd pleaser. Presented in a small casserole dish with touches of aged Parmesan,
both its texture and richness are in precisely the proper proportions.
The chef also puts his own unique spin on salads. His roasted beet Napoleon
($12.00) consists of an epicenter of slices of red and yellow beets
interspersed with layers of creamy herbed chèvre. This is then encompassed with
a pillow of mizuna (crisp, feathery Japanese greens hailing from the mustard
family) and a sprinkling of an invigorating red wine vinaigrette embellished
with chopped walnuts. A stunning combination of colors and textures. The warm
spinach salad ($10.00) is a more straightforward entry but just as satisfying.
Pristinely fresh greenery is topped with slices of mushroom, red onion,
sprinkled with lardons, and surrounded by slices of hard-cooked egg. A flask of
apple cider vinaigrette provides a light and lively consummating touch.
Entrées continue the kitchen's winning ways. Among the piscatorial
pleasures, the yellowfin tuna ($28.00) is a standout. Three beautifully grilled
thick slabs, like the spokes of a wheel, emanate from a central hub of Israeli
couscous wrapped in a single strip of grilled zucchini, while streaks of savory
olive tapenade add a bit of pizzazz to the proceedings.
The brook trout ($28.00) is another pleasure worth seeking out. Two sautéed skin-on
filets are crisscrossed atop an orange-scented wild rice pilaf. An encirclement
of fennel emulsion contrasts nicely with the sweetness of the rice, and red and
yellow cherry tomato halves provide a lovely splash of color.
The special seared haddock ($32.00) is also highly recommended. Set on a
seabed of leek and eggplant ragoût, the moist and flaky filet is circumscribed
by three scrumptious deep-fried haddock-potato dumplings and finished with a
zesty saffron-piquin pepper beurre blanc.
Carnivores, however, may take heart; the chef also turns out a mean steak.
His seared New Zealand sirloin ($32.00) is a perfect compromise between medium
and medium rare, tumultuously flavorful, and sports a texture so transcendent
it would put most bovine palaces to shame. Delicious pommes duchesse,
sautéed spinach, and glazed carrots add their complementary contributions to
the cause; but the incomparable sauce piquante -- a spicy brown sauce generally
consisting of shallots, white wine, vinegar, gherkins, parsley, and variety of
herbs -- is the culinary catalyst that ultimately succeeds in propelling this
presentation into orbit.
For those who would prefer the "other white meat," the Nieman
Ranch double pork chop ($30.00) is outstanding. Sensual and succulent, the chop
is pillowed on a rich and creamy vegetable gratin and garnished with slices of
sautéed apple. But the real zinger is delivered by a provocative cranberry jus.
A winner on all counts.
Among the desserts ($8.00), the appropriately tangy Key lime tartlet is
particularly recommended. Plated in conjunction with a crunchy almond tuile,
a ribbon of raspberry coulis and stylistic smattering of diminutive
orange segments provide attractive consummating touches. On the other hand, I
guarantee that chocoholics will find it virtually impossible to resist the
decadent charms of the incomparable dark chocolate terrine: three wafer thin
slices embellished with an equally opulent peanut butter sauce and touch of crème
anglaise.
Other possibilities in the sweet endings department include an absolutely
superb hazelnut flan with coffee ice cream, warm blueberry and pear cobbler,
and warm apple strudel with pistachio, marscapone, and apple ice cream. The
chef also offers a selection of artisanal cheeses ($10.00) and potent jolts of
espresso ($4.00).
Dining areas include two up/two down: the "Library" and
"Boardroom," both located on the second floor, are to be preferred in
my opinion. You may also opt for the "Chef's Table Room," where
patrons partake of the special tasting menu ($75.00 per person) while
witnessing the bustling culinary action in the diminutive open kitchen.
Wherever you may finally alight, however, you will find the service young and
enthusiastic and maître d' hôtel Matthew Fuellhart a most gracious and amiable
host.
The Lawrenceville Inn, a labor of love on the part of proprietors
Jonathan and Elizabeth Hunt, is an 1892 former farmhouse that is listed on the National
Register of Historic Places. Purchased by the Hunts in August 2001, the
couple spent the next two years carefully restoring the physical plant from
attic to basement. For more detailed information about the house, its
furnishings, lighting, and artwork, as well as the sources of the kitchen's
impressive array of organic comestibles, you might want to consult the
establishment's Website: www.lawrencevilleinn.com. Both decoratively and
gastronomically, this wonderful restaurant is a complete charmer.
Cuisine: Contemporary American
Hours:Dinner: Daily from 5:00
p.m.; Sunday Brunch: 10:00 a.m. - 2:00 p.m.; CLOSED TUESDAY
Credit Cards: All major
Attire: Smart casual
Smoking: Smoking is not permitted in the restaurant.
Reservations: Strongly recommended
Parking: Onsite
Alcohol: BYOB
Price: Expensive
Handicapped Accessible: Yes (for the first floor)
Web Site: www.lawrencevilleinn.com
