Kitchen 233
233 Haddon Avenue
Westmont, Camden County, New Jersey
(856) 833-9233

By The Artful Diner
Special to nj.com
December 26, 2006

Kitchen 233 is the latest venture of the P.J.W. Restaurant Group, proprietors of the upscale Chophouse in Gibbsboro and a slew of P.J. Whelihan's pubs. Interestingly enough, the ambiance appears to be something of a cross between the two. Not quite as sophisticated as the Chophouse's faux brick walls, mission-accented woodwork, plush leather booths, and New York-style swinging bar scene, but not quite as boisterously laid back as a super-casual Whelihan's. The atmosphere is all dark wood and subdued lighting, faintly reminiscent of the murky, testosterone-driven décor of a great American steakhouse.

You enter the bar/lounge and realize that, clientele-wise, management must be aiming high, as there is not a television screen in sight. How well they will succeed in this endeavor is, of course, problematic. Upon crossing the threshold of these peaceful precincts, the first words out of one gentleman's mouth may very well prove the harbinger of things to come: "What, no TV?"

Lack of widescreen entertainment notwithstanding, there is more than enough to engage the potential diner's interest. The catalogue of martinis ($9.00), for instance, is rife with intriguing oenological overtones: the Bordeaux (Bordeaux and Chambord topped off with Champagne); the Beaujolais (Zyr Vodka and blend of fresh strawberries with hints of apples and fresh strawberry crown); I Don't Drink Merlot (Patrón Silver, Merlot, and blackberry brandy)... well, you get the idea.

But there's plenty of the real thing around as well. The restaurant sports a truly cosmopolitan wine list with selections from Italy, France, Austria, New Zealand, California, Germany, and Spain. Several wine flights are available, as well as some first-rate possibilities by the glass. If you're a pinot noir fan, be sure to try Jean Pierre Diconne's 2004 Bourgogne ($10.50); and those in search of a suitable chardonnay will find the 2004 Mahoney Vineyard version invitingly bold and complex.

Executive Chef Chris Painter's Mediterranean-influenced American cuisine exhibits a number of innovative twists and turns, but still manages to maintain a comforting bistro feel about it, which fits in quite well with the casually upscale ambiance. The focaccia riddled with morsels of black olives adds a homey touch, while the amuse-bouches -- perhaps diminutive crisp lobster rings on a bed of micro greens with basil emulsion or roasted bay scallops with brioche herb toasts -- quickly instill the proceedings with a definitive sense of style.

Among the appetizers, the pappardelle pasta ($13.00) is superb. The wide flat ribbons are delightfully al dente and tossed with sautéed wild mushrooms, Parmigiano Reggiano, and a colorful smattering of Brussels sprouts leaves. The result is a decidedly rich palate-pleasing presentation.

When it comes to greenery, both the roasted red & golden beet salad ($10.00) and the roasted shiitake, crimini & wild mushroom salad ($12.00) are highly recommended. The former features tender slices combined with peppery arugula and tarragon, which find their inspiration in a marvelous orange vinaigrette; the latter headlines three rows of mushroom salad interspersed with two rows of mixed greens enlivened with a zippy aged sherry vinegar. The diagonal arrangement on a rectangular plate is as strikingly attractive as it is delicious.

The only semi-disappointment, interestingly enough, also happened to be the most expensive: the shrimp and lobster frites ($18.00). Two morsels of lobster meat were intermixed with three shrimp, all lovingly entwined in an ethereal tempura batter and finished with zesty garlic citrus aîoli. The shrimp were perfectly fresh and crunchy to the bite; and one portion of lobster was so tender it literally melted in the mouth... it's sibling, however, was inordinately tough.

Entrées clearly exhibit a more bistro-like character than their predecessors. Frosty white olive-oil poached turbot filets are surrounded by tomato wedges and baby artichokes in a scintillatingly salty sea of tapenade vinaigrette ($27.00); and a perfectly roasted cod filet is set on a pillow of creamy mashed potatoes and finished with an earthy escargot butter awash with mushrooms, leaves of Brussels sprouts, and potato crisps ($24.00).

Mushrooms, tarbais beans (the beans traditionally used in the classic French cassoulet) and black truffle butter appear to be the perfect partners to display the considerable charms of wild Scottish salmon ($25.00). Unfortunately, this amalgam proved to be a feast for neither the eye nor the palate. For starters, the dish wasn't terribly attractive, as the bland colors just faded into one another; secondly, given the mushy countenance of the salmon and pulpy character of the beans, the presentation was something of a textural disaster; and the taste was equally innocuous. Finally, I specifically asked that the salmon be cooked through, not translucent at the center... yet it arrived conspicuously undercooked. This was quickly noted by our waiter and immediately ferried back to the kitchen. Apologies from the chef were quickly forthcoming and a new filet promised. It arrived a scant five minutes later -- equally undercooked.

In my opinion, the free-range chicken ($25.00) is a much wiser choice. The pancetta-roasted flesh is remarkably moist, the tender fingerling potatoes excellent traveling companions, and the flavorful thyme chicken jus a very nice finishing touch.

Confirmed carnivores also have a number of options -- Black Angus bone-in NY strip ($32.00) and loin of Jamison Farm lamb ($30.00), for instance -- but I would probably give the nod to the heady garlic-marinated skirt steak ($27.00). Juiced up with an earthy black olive butter, it is sided by an intriguing arugula, potato, and black truffle salad.

Desserts present some solid -- though hardly outstanding -- choices. The pick of the litter is the fig-almond tart aided and abetted by rich goat cheese cream ($9.00); following closely on its heels is a classic tarte Tatin embellished with cinnamon ice cream and crème anglaise ($7.00). The chocolate panna cotta ($7.00) is also quite good, although more reminiscent of mousse than panna cotta. The individual cheesecake ($7.00), a nightly special, was topped with a tiara of grape sorbet and circumscribed by clusters of diced cantaloupe, pineapple, strawberry, and honeydew. Pretty to look at, but not terribly exciting for the palate.

Service here, for the most part, is up to the mark. It does seem obvious, however, that the youthful female bartenders and hostesses have been chosen for their considerable physical attributes rather than any possible long-range contributions to the illustrious food service industry. Given the upscale cuisine and décor, a touch more maturity in these areas would be most welcome.

Cuisine: Contemporary American with Mediterranean accents
Hours: Dinner: Mon - Thurs, 5:00 p.m. - 10:00 p.m.; Fri & Sat, 5:00 p.m. - 11:00 p.m.; CLOSED SUNDAY
Credit Cards: All major
Attire: Smart casual
Reservations: Suggested on weekends
Parking: Onsite
Alcohol: License; interesting wine and martini list
Price: Moderate/Expensive
Handicapped Accessible: Yes
Website: www.kitchen233.com

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