JOURNEY TO JEAN-LOUIS - July 2002
Restaurant Jean-Louis
61 Lewis Street
Greenwich, Connecticut
(203) 622-8450
In the year 1983, well-known chef/restaurateur Guy Savoy opened a chic French restaurant in Greenwich, Connecticut. A year later, he was joined by Jean-Louis Gerin, who had served as assistant in charge of purchasing and staff at Mr. Savoy's restaurant in Paris. In 1985, Mr. Gerin agreed to purchase the Connecticut eatery and subsequently renamed it Jean-Louis. The rest, as they say, is history. Now celebrating its seventeenth anniversary, this enchanting establishment continues to attract knowledgeable gourmands from around the country and around the world.
The exterior of this nondescript squat building isn't much of an eye-catcher. Once inside, however, you sense immediately that an exceptional evening is in store. The diminutive dining room -- which accommodates a scant forty diners -- is sophisticated and sedate, tastefully adorned with delicate French lace and pale yellow tablecloths.
And the cuisine, you soon discover, is just as dignified and urbane as the understated ambiance. Over the past seventeen years, Mr. Gerin's culinary methodology has evolved into what he now calls La Nouvelle Classique. His presentations are complex but not convoluted; long reductions and last-minute emulsifications bestow upon his presentations not only an intensely flavorful constitution but also an elegant and ethereal countenance.
Soups are always an excellent indication of a kitchen's capabilities, and the representatives sent forth here are nothing short of extraordinary. The classic in this regard is Mr. Gerin's remarkable double oxtail consommé. Crystal clear and imbued with a host of savory essences, it is embellished with morsels of truffle mushrooms and slivers of "still cooking" fresh foie gras. The warm soup of French lentille du Puy -- a delightfully heady broth dotted with lentils, sautéed poultry, bacon and minced shallots -- is also a tremendously gratifying experience.
Salads are equally edifying. For something a bit unusual, be sure to try the three American caviar/Belgian endive combo folded in sour cream and lemon juice, a specialty Mr. Gerin created for his wife, Linda, in 1986. The slices of fresh foie gras terrine served on a pillow of mixed greens are utterly exquisite, as is the lobster teamed with arugula and warmed oxtail consommé. My favorite, however, sampled over a year ago, remains the scaloppini of lightly sautéed salmon on a bed of mesclun greens. The crowning touch is a subtle yet intense Italian parsley coulis, the perfect assertive match for the wily salmon.
Entrée-wise, matters piscatorial are well-represented, and all are handled with style and finesse. I must confess that I still have dreams about the incomparable halibut filet kissed by a celestial lobster sauce. The fish was incredibly moist and was set on a picturesque "fan" of fresh vegetables -- baby carrots, asparagus, broccoli, snow peas, zucchini and yellow squash -- which provided an ingeniously crunchy counterpoint of colors and textures. Also quite memorable was a medley of slivers and filets of red snapper, monkfish, halibut, shrimp, lobster claw, and epicenter of salmon awash in a heady bouillabaisse-style sauce.
Those whose tastes run more to meat or fowl will also not be disappointed. The sautéed sweetbread morsels are served on a bed of Maxime's potatoes, garnished with arugula & vegetables, and are consummated with a sweetbread cooking juice finished with foie gras. Truly transporting. Ditto the three medallions of beef filet mignon embraced by a complex red wine sauce bordelaise and the breast of farm-raised natural chicken roasted in a cast iron casserole with a truffle mushroom jus.
When it comes to desserts, there is only one sweet path to travel: the petite dégustation for two. This will permit you to taste such delicacies as an illustrious almond biscuit layered with chocolate ganache and praline cream, frangipane biscuit garnished with whipped cassis mousse and pistachio sauce, semi-sweet and bitter chocolate mousse, a "super thin" warm green apple tart with green apple sorbet, vanilla bean crème brûlée, and a tasting of the fresh fruit sorbets of the day. Of course, if you are so inclined, there is also an outstanding assortment of imported cheeses accompanied by pecan and fruit toasts.
Jean-Louis is a destination restaurant of the highest order. And, as such, you may anticipate prices that are commensurate with the impeccably prepared and presented cuisine, the exceptionally professional service, and the award-winning wine list (as of this writing... soups: $17.00 - $29.00; salads: $18.00 - $24.00); entrées: $38.00 - $41.00; three-course vegetarian menu: $58.00; desserts: $10.50 - $22.00). An expensive proposition, indeed. And yet... when you consider the outrageous tariffs often charged at infinitely inferior establishments, I guarantee that you will not feel shortchanged in the slightest.
If you are planning a sojourn through/to the Greenwich, Connecticut area, be sure to place Jean-Louis high on your dining agenda. And if you would prefer to spend the night following your sumptuous -- and, perhaps, decidedly romantic -- dinner, I highly recommend The Stanton House Inn, an idyllic bed and breakfast located just a few blocks from the restaurant (76 Maple Avenue, Greenwich, Connecticut, 203-869-2110).
Bon Appétit!
The
Artful Diner
July 2002
