It's easy to fall in love with Joe & Maggie's Bistro. Two floors of well-spaced, candlelit tables are adorned with tiny white lights and delicate lace curtains; the bustling atmosphere is casually sophisticated yet completely unpretentious; chef/owner Joseph Romanowski's innovative international offerings continue to surprise and delight; and the chef's wife, Maggie, is ever the congenial and welcoming hostess. Factor in reasonable prices and a skilled and experienced wait staff, and you have some idea of why the loyal legions keep coming back for more.
There's quite a nice wine list here. You may start things off with an excellent bottle of Pinot Gris from Oregon's King Estate ($26.00). Among the reds, I would recommend Italy's San Felice Chianti Classico ($26.00) or, another Oregonian, Sokol Blosser's Pinot Noir ($30.00). You will also find a compact selection of wines by the glass ($3.75 - $10.00), beers ($2.75 - $7.95) and specialty martinis ($7.00).
When it comes time to check out the seasonally-changing menu, you are in for a rare treat, as Mr. Romanowski has taken bistro fare one step beyond. No matter what he may set his hand to, he always manages to add little touches that spark both the palate and the imagination.
Consider his attractive salads, for example. The "Green Market Salad" ($5.50) features lovely baby greens embellished with asparagus, haricots vert, lentils and Parmesan cheese tossed with an extraordinary sherry vinaigrette (crumbled goat cheese may be had for an additional $1.75). A baby spinach and frisee combo ($6.95) is dressed up with Gorgonzola and an addictive warm bacon balsamic vinaigrette. Even the ubiquitous Caesar ($6.95) received a new lease on life from a topping of proscuitto, shaved Parmesan, chopped tomatoes and red onions. An outstanding prelude.
The appetizers, however, most clearly reflect the chef's sound philosophy. Like the entrees that follow, his starters are all a veritable feast for the eye, but he tactfully resists the temptation of allowing them to degerate into overblown culinary works of art. His dishes are also decidedly cosmopolitan in scope, yet he never indulges in the overzealous mixing and matching of ingredients out of mere caprice. A sense of harmony and of simplicity pervades throughout.
In this regard, the chef's "Tasting of Vegetables" ($6.95) is an example par excellence. Roast garlic hummus, eggplant caponata and artichoke guacamole are presented with toasted flatbreads for scooping. What could be simpler? Or more utterly delicious? If you prefer, the special seafood tart ($10.95) is also an incomparable starter. An impeccably fresh array of clams, shrimp, mussels and scallops are tastefully arranged atop a crunchy pastry biscuit. In a similar vein, the Florida rock shrimp "shortcake" ($9.25) combines these diminutive crustaceans with andouille sausage, a cheddar cheese biscuit, and adds a touch of Cajun sherry cream for good measure. The jumbo lump crab cake ($10.00), which comes in several guises, is always worth considering. One particularly memorable presentation found it sharing top billing with a scrumptious potato/leek hash and sauce Dijonnaise.
Entrees consist of a limited number of carefully chosen items from the printed menu and a select lineup of daily specials (all recited with prices, by the way). Mr. Romanowski's way with duck is without peer, so always pay careful heed to his "Preparation du Jour." Most recently, the tender medium-rare slices arrived at table attended by a mushroom crepe, a marvelously rich sweet potato puree, and finished with fresh peach chutney ($19.50). During other seasons of the year, you may also wish to consider the citrus and honey glazed duck breast ($19.00). It is accompanied by a generous allocation of down-home duck meatloaf and maple whipped sweet potatoes.
The "other white meat" is also a specialty here, so don't hesitate to tie into the Cajun style double-cut pork chop ($19.50). It comes spruced up with littleneck clams and a honey-scented Creole sauce ($19.50). For those partial to red meat, on the other hand, the roast rack of lamb with herbes de Provence and rosemary jus is simply classic. Another attractive option is the hail 'n' hearty Black Angus sirloin au poive with sauce marchands de vin, garlic, spinach and a cheddar potato cake ($22.00).
As skilled as the chef may be with both meat and fowl, his seafood offerings are equally masterful. On one occasion, the daily special featured perfectly seared scallops and an assortment of vegetable bonbons artfully arranged around a hub of delectable garlic mashed potatoes ($21.00). During another visit, the market fish of the day proved to be a lusciously thick chunk of tuna topped with garlic shrimp ($22.00). It was flanked by tiny portions of savory basmati rice and consummated with an exquisite citrus/lemon beurre blanc. From the set menu, the finny fare of preference is unqestionably the outstanding oven-roasted halibut filet in a sweet garlic potato crust ($22.00). The crowning touch is an essence of Port wine and balsamic vinegar. There is just enough flavor to liven things up, but not too much so as to overwhelm the subtle qualities of the fish itself. A superlative presentation.
Desserts are every bit as praiseworthy as their forerunners. The double lemon tart with flesh blueberry compote ($6.00) possesses just the right interplay of sweet and sour. Chocoholics will, of course, inevitably opt for Joe's chocolate dessert of the day ($6.95). On our last visit, a superb checkerboard terrine: squares of creamy chocolate mousse, devil's food cake and rich Belgian white choccolate garnished with a milk chocolate sauce and creme anglaise. A dieter's nightmare... but, oh, sooo good. Those who wish to go out on a less calorically lethal note would do well to stick with the homemade sorbets or the 97% fat free frozen yogurt ($6.00 and $4.50, respectively). Both are garnished with a variety of fresh seasonal fruits.
The regular and decaffeinated espresso ($3.00) are up to snuff; ditto the cafe au lait ($2.75) and cappuccino ($4.00). You may also avail yourself of a generous selection of dessert wines, cognacs, brandies and liqueurs.
Several months ago, late on a Sunday afternoon, friends called from their car phone as they were passing through the Long Branch area and wondered if I could recommend a good restaurant. I sent them immediately to Joe & Maggie's. They haven't been able to thank me enough... Neither will you.
Cuisine: International
Hours: Lunch: Mon - Fri, 11:30 a.m. - 2:30 p.m.; Dinner: Mon - Thurs, 5:00 p.m. - 10:00 p.m.; Fri & Sat, 5:00 p.m. - 11:00 p.m.; Sun, 4:00 p.m. - 9:00 p.m.
Credit Cards: All major
Attire: Casual
Smoking: Smoking is permitted in the bar area only
Reservations: Recommended
Parking: Ample public parking behind the restaurant
Alcohol: License
Price: Moderate
Handicapped Accessible: Yes
http://www.bayavetrattoria.com
