Jeffrey's
Restaurant Now Closed - Restaurant Bistro 44 now in that location.
72 Main Street
Toms River, Ocean County, New Jersey
(732) 914-9544
By The Artful Diner
Special to New Jersey Online
12/7/1998
You emerge from the elevator into the tastefully furnished second-floor lobby. To your left is a large, luxuriously appointed desk replete with computer console and leather menu binders; to your right, a small dining room utilized for private parties. The main dining area, like its diminutive sibling, is the epitome of understatement. Mustard-colored walls, green linen napkins and comfortably cushioned chairs all blend decorously into the subtle dark green carpeting. Crisp white tablecloths bask in the glow of tiny shaded lamps; vases of fresh flowers add just the right splash of color.
The first person you are likely to encounter is Mr. Steven Fine, the manager/maitre d', a man totally in tune with his environment. Whether escorting you to your table or explicating various and sundry items of menu esoterica, he is the soul of propriety. Yet he is also gregarious by nature and obviously enjoys exchanging pleasantries with his guests. The other members of the staff follow Mr. Fine's capable lead; they are friendly, competent and totally professional.
Atmospherically, Jeffrey's is the perfect blend: it is sophisticated but not at all uptight or pretentious, cozy and intimate without being indolent or sentimental. In short, it is unequivocally grown-up in its appeal.
And, like the ambiance, chef/owner Jeffrey Schneekloth's cuisine is equally cultivated. It is also highly imaginative, colorful of countenance, assertive of taste and of texture. Mr. Schneekloth has obviously decided that if he is going to err, it will be on the side of boldness rather than timidity--but this is rarely the case. In several visits, the only real faux pas I can recall was the paillards of veal ($22.00). The tender veal scallops were perfectly grilled and accompanied by a conglomeration of ingredients that included sauteed roasted corn, shiitake mushrooms, corn and wild rice pancakes, tomatoes and St. Andre cheese. While this dish was a positive feast for the palate, its visual appeal, unfortunately, left a great deal to be desired. The chef must have entertained similar thoughts; on our next visit, the presentation had been transformed into an eye-catching Napoleon (also $22.00), which was every bit as attractive as it was delicious.
Even a cursory glance at the nightly changing menu is enough to inform you that Mr. Schneekloth has fused a variety of traditions into his extensive culinary repertoire... but Oriental fare is unquestionably his first love. Thus, tempora tuna nori (dried seaweed) roll ($8.75) embellished with wasabi, pickled ginger and an intoxicating sesame/soy dipping sauce would make an excellent starter. As would the spring roll consisting of roast pork, leeks, cabbage and carrots ($8.25). The flaky shell demonstrates just the right degree of crunchiness, and the accompanying ginger/cilantro broth adds a highly unusual and alluring touch. However, should you find your taste buds leading you in a slightly different direction, be sure to give the pistachio crusted shrimp ($8.75) a try. These lovely crustaceans contain just a hint of exotic spices and are arranged around an orzo spinach salad drizzled with savory roasted garlic vinaigrette. This is an appetizer not to be missed.
Entrees, both Oriental and Occidental in nature, also present a host of intriguing possibilities. Should you feel in the mood to continue your journey to the East, for instance, "A Presentation of Duck" ($22.75)--slow roasted pekin (Peking) style--is a simply marvelous selection. The breast portion is sliced, while the leg is julienned with vegetables in a scallion and shiitake pancake. Both rich and succulent, this hearty dish is presented with stir-fried bok choy and an enchanting ginger/duck broth. The grilled rack of lamb accompanied by toasted couscous and grilled ratatouille ($23.50) is just the right shade of pink, and the filet mignon with brandy peppercorn sauce ($23.00) is both extravagantly flavorful and mouthwateringly tender.
When it comes to matters piscatorial, you are in equally capable hands. The yellowfin tuna ($22.00) is first marinated in sesame oil, soy sauce and mirin (sweet rice wine), then pan-seared and presented on a bed of zippy wasabi mashed potatoes. It is also garnished with the same delicious sesame/soy dipping sauce that made the tempora tuna nori appetizer so memorable. If the halibut in potato crust ($21.00) happens to swim in for a guest appearance, don't hesitate to put in your order. The filet is pan-fried to an absolute turn, the braised spinach and yummy mustard mashed potatoes contribute a dash of homey familiarity, and a broth of herbes de Provence provides the exquisite finishing touch.
Desserts ($7.00), all made in-house, are yet another striking example of Mr. Schneekloth's considerable culinary skill. A luscious hot chocolate cake with liquid center, you are informed, takes twelve minutes to prepare--and it is worth the wait. The Key lime tart with sour cherry sorbet is an ingenious interfusion of tumultuously tangy essences, while toasted coconut ice cream adds a decidedly glamorous touch to the delectable down-home apple crisp. However, should you wish to push your taste buds to the max, allow me to recommend the positively decadent chocolate/peanut butter pate--it boldly goes where no dessert has gone before.
Dinner here can be an expensive proposition, approximately $100 for two (including tax and tip). On the other hand, since you may tote along your own, the cost is significantly less than it would be were you to purchase your liquid libations onsite. Is it worth the price of admission? Without doubt. Whether dining for business or pleasure, this fine establishment is a bastion of both gastronomic and social civility. There are very few Garden State eateries to which I would enthusiastically return at a moment's notice... Jeffrey's is certainly one of them. Highly recommended.
Cuisine: New American/Fusion
Hours: Lunch (served in the retail store downstairs): Mon - Fri, 12:00 noon - 2:30 p.m.; Dinner: Tues - Sat, 5:30 p.m. - 9:30 p.m.
Credit Cards: AX, MC, V
Attire: Sharp Casual
Smoking: Smoking is not permitted in the restaurant
Reservations: Recommended
Parking: Street and nearby municipal lot
Alcohol: BYOB
Price: Expensive
Handicapped Accessible: Yes
Specials: Retail store and cooking school
