New Jersey Restaurant Review
Indigo Moon
Restaurant Now Closed
171 First Avenue
Atlantic Highlands, Monmouth County, New Jersey
(732) 291-2433
By The Artful Diner
Special to New Jersey Online
8/13/2001
A benevolent aura surrounds Indigo Moon. You sense this, even before you enter, gazing through the large plate-glass windows at the gold-washed walls, art deco lighting, and attractive Gallic prints and tapestries. And chef/proprietor Adam Scott's provocative country French cuisine is equally congenial, managing to both soothe the soul and awaken the drowsy palate. Indeed, this is comfort food with just the right attitude.
Once across the threshold, your original suspicions are confirmed: The ambiance is decidedly bistro... yet without the nerve-jangling traffic congestion usually associated with this particular genre's cramped quarters. For while the establishment accommodates approximately sixty patrons, the tables are well spaced, the dining area quite roomy, and the service friendly and unobtrusive.
You begin with an assortment of breads from Anthony & Sons Bakery in Denville accompanied by generous allocations of butter and herb-infused olive oil. Dense and delectable, doled out in thick slices, this initial offering is but a harbinger of the good things to come.
The menu changes seasonally, but Mr. Scott, who has great affection for certain comestibles, will often maintain their presence while subtly varying both the accoutrements and modes of presentation. The jumbo lump crab cake ($9.00), Indigo Moon's most popular appetizer, is a delicious case in point. On one occasion, it may be gently caressed by a carrot-ginger aïoli; on another, surrounded by an orange beurre blanc and crowned with shallot crisps. Various flavorful fungi are yet another delectable example. In fall and winter, expect to enjoy the hearty goodness of a grilled portobello ($8.00) stuffed with ricotta cheese and drizzled with a balsamic reduction; or, perhaps, spinach and Brie and an engaging poached garlic sauce may prove to be the order of the day. During the warmer weather, you may luxuriate in a light and lively wild mushroom and truffle sauté ($8.00) garnished with Romano crostini.
Even items that might be considered mundane are treated with special care. The Prince Edward Island mussels ($7.00) are wonderfully plump and arrive swimming in a broth of garlic and white wine with pear tomatoes and a chiffonade of basil. And an impeccably fresh mesclun salad ($5.00) is spruced up with shredded carrots and a scintillating Dijon-thyme vinaigrette.
On the other hand, there is absolutely nothing commonplace about Mr. Scott's innovative take on the great American "BLT." Thin slices of rare pepper-seared yellowfin tuna repose between flaky puff pastries. This intriguing "sandwich" is then embellished with tomato, shaved red onion & arugula, and invigorated with a touch of basil mayonnaise ($9.00).
And the main courses are just as impressive. Mr. Scott has obviously lost none of the flair he so clearly demonstrated while at the Grand Summit Hotel. He has, however, seasoned his style with a most gratifying pinch of restraint. His coq au vin ($19.00), for example, is a delightful contemporary spin on the venerable French classic. Instead of a whole chicken cut into pieces, the chef utilizes only the breast, which is cooked on the bone to impart more flavors, and then extricated just prior to serving. Baby carrots, onions, and perfectly cooked new potatoes round out the picture, along with a savory Burgundy wine sauce. This exceptional entrée has been on holiday for the summer months, but it is booked for a return engagement when the new fall menu is inaugurated on September 5th.
The kitchen is also quite adept at matters piscatorial. I have, for instance, sampled the swordfish in several delicious guises, and each was nothing short of outstanding. During one particular visit, it was pan-seared beneath an intriguing blend of spices that imparted charisma rather than heat, set atop a seabed of vegetable orzo, and consummated with a sweet carrot sauce ($25.00). More recently, this noble denizen of the deep reclined on a sumptuous bed of lobster mashed potatoes crowned with grilled portobello and tomato ($27.00).
Halibut ($24.00) has also proved to be an immensely popular mainstay on Indigo Moon's summer menu. The filet is herb-seared to pristine perfection, surrounded by a sea of saffron-tomato broth awash with white beans, and accompanied by broccolini florets. Another excellent choice is the special skate wing teamed with an utterly addictive mound of Yukon gold mashed potatoes ($25.00) The fish itself is firm of texture, exhibits just a touch of sweetness on the palate, and is finished with an exquisitely understated lobster sauce.
On the other hand, if steak is more to your liking, don't hesitate to go for the gold... the dry-aged Black Angus New York sirloin ($26.00). This is truly a wonderful cut of beef -- rich and succulent -- and it is aided and abetted by a most ingratiating herb-Romano butter. Add the chef's incredible garlic whipped potatoes, top with crisp asparagus spears, and you have a presentation that is every carnivore's dream-come-true.
Desserts ($6.50), courtesy of Mr. Scott's wife, Janet, demonstrate the same definitive sense of style as her husband's appetizers and entrées. Her cappuccino crème brûlée is positively benchmark, the silky smooth coffee-infused interior lovingly imprisoned in a thin layer of caramelized sugar. The angel food cake, caressed by fresh berries, is an ethereal delight; her classy New York-style cheesecake displays just the proper delicate density and sports a graham cracker crust that is pure ecstasy. And, during the colder months of the year, you may look forward to her chocolate bread pudding, a luscious island surrounded by a sensuous sea of crème anglaise.
Every so often a restaurant comes along that you would prefer to keep to yourself, the gnosis to be duly apportioned among only the most privileged of your gastronomically inclined acquaintances... and Indigo Moon is just such an establishment. But, alas, the good word has already been spread abroad, so it looks like we'll have to share our wonderful new discovery with a host of other knowledgeable Monmouth County diners. Just be sure to call ahead for reservations... and don't forget to tote along your favorite vintage. Hope to see you there!
Cuisine: Country French
Hours: Dinner: Tues - Thurs, 5:00 p.m. - 9:30 p.m.; Fri & Sat, 5:00 p.m. - 10:30 p.m.; Sun, 5:00 p.m. - 9:00 p.m.; CLOSED MONDAY
Credit Cards: AX, MC, V
Attire: Casual
Smoking: Separate nonsmoking section
Reservations: Recommended, especially on weekends
Parking: Ample street parking and nearby municipal lots
Alcohol: BYOB
Price: Moderate
Handicapped Accessible: Yes
Website: www.indigochef.com
