New Jersey Restaurant Review
(See Heatwave Café Update of 5/23/03)
Heatwave Café
513 Main Avenue, Route 35
Bay Head, Ocean County, New Jersey
(732) 714-8881
By The Artful Diner
Special to New Jersey Online
1/25/1999
Some restaurants seem to encourage gastronomic promiscuity. From the moment you darken the door--or, perhaps, even before--you sense that this will be yet another of those culinary one-night stands. The food may be good, the service acceptable, the ambiance pleasant, the price right... but you just sense that something is missing. Then there are other establishments (few and far between, I might add) that invite long-term, loving relationships; no matter how many times you've settled in at table, they manage to woo you back again and again.
The Heatwave Cafe is most assuredly of this latter disposition. In the fever of summer, it crackles with that unique excitement indigenous to the Jersey Shore; in the dead of winter, it provides just the right setting for those in search of a casual romantic evening; and in the chill of autumn and the blush of early spring, it is ever an edible delight.
Former bankers Anthony Ingoglia and Wolfgang Rech opened for business in August of 1997, and their loyal patrons have been reaping the dividends ever since. You will find this a friendly place--the service, the gregarious clientele and the convivial Mr. Rech, who can often be seen sharing gastronomic and other pleasantries with his guests. Mr. Ingoglia, on the other hand, prefers to remain in the kitchen where he weaves together a colorful tapestry of eclectic culinary traditions. There's a little of everything here... and everything is delightfully appealing. So have a seat in the rustic, diminutive (32-seat) dining room, and allow the soft sounds of recorded jazz to soothe your restless spirit as you peruse the riches of the seasonally-inspired menu.
If you prefer soup as a starter ($5.95), you will find the emphasis on quality rather than quantity. To ward off Jack Frost's gelid assaults, Mr. Ingoglia whips up a devastatingly delicious winter squash harvest soup topped with cheese, Parmesan toast and fresh herbs. It is both nourishing and flavorful, almost decadent, and is certain to warm the cockles as well as tantalize the palate. And when more moderate climatic conditions are prevalent, be sure to avail yourself of a most agreeable gazpacho; the rich crown of sambuca cream proves the perfect counterpoint to its subtle spiciness.
But diners who desire something a bit more substantial will also not be disappointed. A crispy duck spring roll ($9.95) is presented on a bed of baby greens drizzled with a wonderfully enticing Champagne vinaigrette that manages to strike just the right note between sweet and sour. And an attractive appetizer of farm greens wrapped in paper-thin prosciutto adorned with basil oil and tarragon vinaigrette ($8.95) is also an excellent possibility. Ditto the curried shrimp reclining on a bed of mango/papaya relish ($9.95) and the pork, beef and chicken satays ($9.95). My all-time favorite, however, is a special roasted corn risotto ($9.95). Copious and creamy, embellished with yummy bits of bacon and wild mushrooms, this is truly a starter to be savored--and very nearly a meal in itself.
With regard to entrees, Mr. Ingoglia just loves to jumble around his intriguing main courses and their various accoutrements--and piscatorial prospects are always front and center. Thus, during the summer months, you may find salmon prepared on a cedar plank with sundried tomato mashed potatoes and a delectable tropical fruit relish ($21.95). In colder weather, it will also be oven-baked (sans cedar), but served on a bed of Parmesan mashed potatoes and adorned with slices of mango and Brie ($22.95). Both incarnations deserve to be high on your gastronomic agenda. Tuna may be presented with a seared peppercorn crust over a three-bean medley garnished with wasabi cream ($20.95) or pesto-seared over ginger/sesame glazed stir-fried vegetables ($21.95). And should the grilled Chilean sea bass ($20.95) appear as a daily special, don't be shy about putting in your order; it arrives dressed to kill in a heady mediterranean tomato/olive relish, proffering a perfectly marvelous interplay of flavors and textures.
Rack of lamb? Heatwave's version definitely deserves your attention. It is just the right shade of pink, coated with herbs and Dijon mustard, and served up with a generous portion of stick-to-your-ribs garlic mashed potatoes and oven-roasted veggies ($24.95). A double-cut grilled veal chop and the filet mignon (both $25.95) are also fabulous choices. However, should you be in the mood for something a wee bit more avant-garde, the Jamaican spiced pork loin medallions ($21.95) are sure to fill the bill. For patrons who have a preference for pasta, the fettuccine with herbs and four cheeses--Asiago, Parmesan, provolone, Romano--is a delectable constant on Mr. Ingoglia's culinary agenda ($18.95).
If you haven't already exceeded your capacity, you will find desserts to be as delightfully diverse as their forebears. An individual-size chocolate cheesecake ($5.95) served with raspberry/chambord sauce would make a first-class denouement to your time at table, as would the grilled pineapple tart topped with vanilla ice cream ($5.95). My personal fave, however (which my wife and I often share), is a grand and glorious chocolate chip vanilla ice cream sandwich with chocolate sauce and cream ($5.95).
Even if you do manage to resist these sweet temptations, don't pass up the rich, full-bodied coffee ($1.50) or potent espresso ($2.00 single/$3.00 double). You will also discover a select group of specialty teas ($2.00 cup/$3.75 pot) for your sipping pleasure.
Do I imply that Heatwave Cafe is without spot or blemish? Hardly. I mean, what restaurant is? But this worthy eatery continues to serve up an exceptionally laudable line of savory comestibles in a pleasant, comfortable environment, ably augmented by personable, friendly and enthusiastic service. True, tariffs here do encroach upon the expensive category (plan on spending $90 - $100 for two, including tax and gratuity), but this is one establishment that is, in my view, worth the price of admission. And toting along your own vintage will also help to alleviate the strain on your wallet.
No matter what time of the year you decide to pay a call, I'm certain you won't be disappointed. Highly recommended.
Cuisine: Eclectic
Hours: Tues - Sun, 5:00 p.m. - 10:00 p.m.; CLOSED MONDAY
Credit Cards: AX, MC, V, Discover
Attire: Casual
Smoking: Smoking is not permitted in the restaurant
Reservations: Recommended, mandatory during the summer months
Parking: Ample street parking
Alcohol: BYOB
Price: Moderate/Expensive
Handicapped Accessible: No
