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Gasthaus zur Post
Dorfstrasse 11, Landbergen

Website: gastwirt.de

This is a rustic German restaurant/hotel with twenty-five guestrooms and modern amenities. There is a tiny bar replete with crackling fireplace where many of the locals hold court in the early evening, sharing a good brew and good conversation. The diminutive bi-level dining room is dressed in rich walnut and a splashy, colorful selection of modern art.

Several of the appetizers are highly recommended. The potato cakes are beautifully fried, crisp and golden on the outside, giving way to a luscious and velvety interior. These are teamed with thin slices of salty Westphalian ham, a tiny tangle of greens tossed with a light vinaigrette, and a dollop of sour cream. The potato cakes may also be ordered with stewed apples and pumpernickel or with smoked salmon and crème fraîche. In whatever guise they may be appear, they are a simply superlative opening move.

The lambs lettuce surrounded by a smattering of diced tomatoes and tossed with a tangy raspberry vinaigrette is also a first-rate starter . . . as is the "Spicy Salad," shredded prime boiled beef and cucumber combined in a mayonnaise dressing redolent of horseradish.

The entrées weren't quite up to the level of the appetizers, but they still had a great deal to recommend them. The special breast of pheasant reclining on a pungent bed of sauerkraut and topped with fried kale was delightfully moist and tender of countenance. Three rich potato dumplings completed this satisfying scenario.

The duo of salmon and perch-pike was also quite robust, but not nearly so successful. The filets were presented on a bed of mashed potatoes and embellished with a thin layer of sauerkraut. They were then topped with spinach, drowned in an extremely rich cheese sauce, and conveyed to table in a frying pan with a huge wooden handle. If it had not been for the "Saucier's Revenge," all would have been well. The result of this spirited inundation was, needless to say, a good deal less than edifying.

The restaurant offers a compact wine list that is basically German with a few limited selections from France and Italy. The vintage of the evening was a very nice 2001 Blauschiefer Riesling, Trocken, Weingut C. Rumpel & Cie from the Mosel district.

Gasthaus zur Post serves up ample portions of basically well prepared cuisine at extremely reasonable prices in a most convivial atmosphere.

The Artful Diner
November 2002

The Artful Diner is an independent, freelance food writer.  His latest review and an archive of past reviews for restaurants around the country and the world can be found on this site on the REVIEWS page.

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