New Jersey Restaurant Review
Elena Wu Chinese Restaurant
Plaza 70 East
Route 70
Marlton, Burlington County, New Jersey
(856) 566-3222
By The Artful Diner
Special to New Jersey Online
11/16/1998
A long time ago, in a gastronomic galaxy far, far away... before Americans ever dreamed of inundating their innards with the dubious delicacies of international "food courts" or poisoning their palates in so-called "chain" chow houses... there were nothing but tacky little strip-malls and a host of humble storefronts specializing in the worthy comestibles indigenous to their particular country of origin. How did we make do?
In point of fact, diminutive ethnic eateries and equally diminutive retail outlets have always enjoyed a natural affinity. And, even in today's world of mega-malls and assembly-line cuisines, these enticing little enclaves, generally ensconced in the unlikeliest of locations, have managed to survive and prosper. How so? Because they serve up the real thing at prices that are equal to or, in many cases, significantly less expensive than their various and sundry pre-portioned imitators.
Elena Wu Chinese Restaurant is an example par excellence of this underappreciated genre. The strip-mall facade is totally innocuous; and only several mirrors and a touch of dark wood trim ameliorate the interior blandness of the all-too-familiar Oriental decor. The food, however, is what keeps the customers happy. The Cantonese and Szechuan offerings aren't particularly unusual or exotic, but the ingredients are impeccably fresh and the superior preparation and agreeable presentation more than compensate for the lack of originality.
If you wish to cut to the culinary quick at a particular Chinese eatery, order the wonton soup ($1.30 per cup)... it is the ultimate teller of tales. In some greasy spoons the chicken broth has all the appeal of stale dishwater. Here it is light of body but still heady and flavorful, redolent of scallion and subtle spices. The house special wonton soup is the deluxe edition served in a tureen and gussied up with a topping of shredded pork. Though a tad more expensive ($5.25 for 2), it is perfect for those with heartier appetites.
There are also a number of excellent appetizers from which to choose. The six steamed spinach dumplings ($4.25) filled with minced veggies are ideal starters. The dumplings themselves are just the right texture and are accompanied by a lovely sesame/soy dipping sauce. Equally appealing is the bon bon chicken ($3.25), shredded cold poached chicken and lettuce topped with an intoxicating sesame seed paste. The cold sesame noodles ($2.50) and the honey glazed Chinese roast pork ($5.95) are also highly recommended.
When it comes to entrees, the standard menu holds few surprises. The "Chef's Special Suggestions" and the daily blackboard specials, on the other hand, deserve closer scrutiny. If you're in the mood to mix 'n' match, for example, don't hesitate to order the Hon Sue Gai Kew ($9.95). Breaded boneless pieces of chicken breast and Chinese roast pork are stir fried with snow peas, water chestnuts, bamboo shoots, bok choy and straw mushrooms in a delicate ginger/soy sauce. The stir-fried fish ($10.95), which puts in frequent guest appearances, is also worth considering. The finny creature of choice here is Alaskan flounder at the peak of good health. Bite-size morsels are sauteed and then briefly fired again with an assortment of mixed vegetables. A real fave. If you're in the mood for something a bit more mundane, the cashew chicken ($8.50) is an excellent choice. The poultry nuggets are moist and tender, the assorted veggies exhibit just the right amount of "crunch," and, when combined with the rich buttery sweetness of the cashews, this comely recipe delivers just the right blend of color, taste and texture.
With regard to the entrees, allow me to stress two additional points: 1) While Chinese kitchens are infinitely more accomplished with pork and various forms of fowl than they are with beef, if you must indulge, I would strongly suggest the steak Mandarin style ($10.95). Confirmed carnivores are sure to find the quality of this savory sirloin completely up to the mark. 2) As you have undoubtedly noticed, the tariffs here are extremely reasonable. All that could change at the drop of a fork, however, should you opt for the Peking duck ($24.95). On the other hand, Elena Wu's version is a triumph of Oriental gastronomy, an absolute favorite with the establishment's loyal patrons, and certainly worthy of your hard-earned cash. I'll leave you to sort out this delectable dilemma.
Not everything is flawless, of course; but, at these prices ($35.00 - $40.00 for two, including tax and tip), you're willing to overlook an occasional order of soggy, underseasoned garlic eggplant, honey crisp bananas that are listed prominently on the menu but never available... or a waiter who assumes you're about to bestow a gargantuan gratuity and doesn't bother to return with your change. Indeed, what this restaurant sets out to do, it does in spades: serving up an inviting array of mouthwatering vittles at equally inviting prices--and that's a winning combination if ever there was one.
Fans of the Wu family will be pleased to learn that they just recently opened another restaurant, Chez Elena Wu, in nearby Voorhees (Ritz Center, 910 Berlin Road, 609-566-3222). The decor is decidedly classy, the bill of fare decidedly contemporary, the prices decidedly upscale--and I've heard nothing but raves through the culinary grapevine. I'll be paying a call in the near future... but rest assured that those who appreciate gourmet Oriental cuisine will not be disappointed.
Cuisine: Chinese (Cantonese & Szechuan)
Hours: Mon - Thurs, 11:30 a.m. - 10:00 p.m.; Fri & Sat, 11:30 a.m. - 11:00 p.m.; Sun, Noon - 10:00 p.m.
Credit Cards: AX, MC, V, Travelers Checks
Attire: Casual
Smoking: Smoking is not permitted in the restaurant
Reservations: Accepted
Parking: Onsite
Alcohol: BYOB
Price: Inexpensive (unless you opt for the Peking duck at $24.95)
Handicapped Accessible: Yes
Specials: Ten-course banquet to celebrate the Chinese New Year on Saturdays during February and March
