New Jersey Restaurant Review
Dish
11/2005 Restaurant Now Closed
40 Brighton Avenue
Passaic, Passaic County, New Jersey
(973) 773-9335
By The Artful Diner
Special to New Jersey Online
10/14/2002
When this eatery first opened its doors, nearly four years ago, hired bellies jostled and jousted with one another to be the first to bestow their imprimatur on executive chef Steve Santoro's worthy efforts. A slew of kudos soon followed, and Dish was well on its way. But, over time, restaurants, like water, have a way of seeking their own culinary level. And in light of the fact that Mr. Santoro has since departed and pops in for a casual visit to his former digs only occasionally -- although the kitchen still adheres to his basic game plan -- I thought this might be an appropriate moment to sample the fare once again.
Dish does remain a bit of a contradiction... The restaurant is situated in a decidedly tacky neighborhood at the Clifton border... but the exterior of the building -- the former Francesco's -- is quite attractive, well-maintained, and exudes infinitely more class than its humble surroundings. The interior is dark and supper-clubish, retro of disposition, minimalist of décor. Definitely different. You either love it or hate it. And, like the ambiance, the food also prompts a number of ambivalent emotions. For while appetizers and desserts are chic and sumptuously sophisticated, entrées occasionally fall short of the mark.
Appetizers, as noted immediately above, are superb. Ethereal of countenance yet rife with flavor, the Vermont goat cheese tart ($9.95) is a velvety revelation adorned with smoked bacon morsels, sautéed wild mushrooms, and shavings of Parmesan cheese; basil oil and aged balsamic vinegar dotted and dashed about the periphery provide a colorful consummating touch.
Plump and succulent steamed littleneck clams ($10.95) are awash in a light and delicate white wine broth redolent of garlic and embellished with bacon, slices of potato, and bits of spinach. An outstanding effort... As is the yellowfin tuna carpaccio ($9.95) sporting an epicenter of seaweed salad, dabs of ginger and wasabi, and surrounded by a pungent ring of black bean vinaigrette.
Salads also make first-rate starters. They range from a simple array of organic baby lettuces tossed with aged balsamic vinaigrette and grape tomatoes ($5.95) to an artistic arrangement of Belgian endive spruced up with slices of Asian pears, chunks of Maytag blue cheese, hazelnuts, and a fabulous aged hazelnut vinaigrette ($9.95). This latter offering exhibits a lovely point/counterpoint of tastes and textures.
Desserts ($8.50), like the appetizers, demonstrate an incredible degree of finesse. The thin crispy apple tart is precisely that... Celestial slices of fruit are layered on an exquisitely flaky crust and garnished with Tahitian vanilla bean ice cream. The eggless vanilla bean custard, a panna cotta-like creation, is also quite elegant and is presented with a compote of fresh strawberries, blackberries, and raspberries crowning a diminutive individual creamy cheesecake.
The flourless bittersweet chocolate cake is something of a misnomer. What you expect is one of those typical death-by-chewy-chocolate-fudge, candy-bar-on-a-plate routines. But what you get is a wonderfully warm, light-as-a-feather, melt-in-your-mouth magnum opus accompanied by a decadent dollop of pistachio gelato... A superlative sweet ending that is devoured in a moment.
Entrées, for the most part, are also quite good... Unfortunately, several lack the same sense of style and savoir-faire as the restaurant's extraordinary preludes and postludes. The roasted pork chop wrapped in Parma prosciutto ($19.95), for example, is absolutely massive and teamed with a polenta cake and tangled mass of vegetables. The pork itself is rather tasteless and not particularly tender. In point of fact, it is difficult to believe that this colossus emerged from the same kitchen as the scintillatingly sensual appetizers and desserts. Ditto the special pan-seared Black Sea bass ($23.95), which, once again, bears the marks of a decidedly heavy hand. In addition to the bass, portobello mushrooms, baby carrots, cippollini onions, snap peas, fingerling potatoes, grilled eggplant, and a cherry tomato "broth" -- which is, in reality, the consistency of mayonnaise -- all clamor for your attention. This is one dish that is entirely too convoluted for its own good.
On the other hand, the Maine scallops ($25.95) are utterly breathtaking. Seldom have I encountered such an impeccably conceived and flawlessly executed presentation. The bivalves are beautifully seared, giving way to a rich, meaty interior. They are then layered on a barley pilaf replete with torn spinach and finely diced butternut squash. The inspiring pièce de résistance, however, is surely a generous allocation of vibrantly complex beef jus and splash of white truffle oil. This may seem a highly unlikely union... but it is a marriage made in heaven. There is just enough passion in the jus to gently caress the delicate objects of its affection without smothering their more pleasing natural attributes.
Another seafood item that deserves high praise is the sesame-seared yellowfin tuna ($26.95). Served rare and furbished with soba noodles and a cucumber & seaweed salad, it is an integrative marvel of colors and textures finished with a beguiling pickled ginger and black bean vinaigrette. I would also highly recommend the spinach and Parmesan ravioli ($15.95). Dressed in a rich tomato sauce with a roasted chicken broth base and sprinkled with sautéed mushrooms and fresh herbs, it is an excellent alternative for those with less hearty appetites.
Dish sports an interesting international wine list that matches up quite well with the cuisine. It strikes me as a bit on the pricey side, but there are still a few bargains to be had, especially selections by the glass. The 2000 Erath Pinot Noir ($6.50) from Oregon is quite gentle on the palate. A bit more robust are the 1999 Jekel Merlot ($7.50) and 2001 Lindemann's Shiraz from Australia ($6.50). For white wine lovers, there is also a very nice Alsatian Riesling from Ribeauville ($5.50).
On the other hand, if this is a special occasion and you really want to spend some cash, feel free to splurge on a 1995 Barolo "Ornato" from Piedmont's Pio Cesare ($175.00) or a 1997 Vosne-Romanée from Robert Arnoux ($76.00). But you really needn't break the bank... A velvety 1999 Pinot Noir from Cambria's Julia's Vineyard ($48.00) certainly fills the bill with suitable aplomb.
Even after nearly four years, when many establishments are already demonstrating symptoms of restaurant fatigue, Dish shows no signs of resting on its laurels. The cuisine is still delightfully innovative; the décor remains intriguing and offbeat; and the service continues to be first-rate. When a few of the somewhat ungainly entrées generate the same exciting gastronomic discretion as the superlative appetizers and desserts, this highly recommended eatery will truly have it all.
Cuisine: Eclectic Contemporary American
Hours: Dinner: Tues - Thurs, 5:30 p.m. - 10:00 p.m.; Fri & Sat, 5:30 p.m. - 10:30 p.m. CLOSED SUNDAY AND MONDAY
Credit Cards: All major
Attire: Smart Casual
Smoking: Permitted in the bar/lounge only
Reservations: Recommended
Parking: Onsite
Alcohol: License
Price: Expensive
Handicapped Accessible: Yes
