Creed's Seafood & Steaks
499 North GulphRoad
King of Prussia, Pennsylvania
(610) 265-2550
www.creedskop.com

Printable Copy of this Review

There have been several other restaurant incarnations at this location; however, judging by the quality of the cuisine and the convivial crowds that gather at both lunch and dinner, Creed's is destined for a long and illustrious run.

Before settling in at table, be sure to pay a call at the comfortable and — even on normally quiet weeknights — bustling bar. Cosmo martinis are very much in evidence here, along with a smattering of foreign and domestic brews, and some very nice wine selections by the glass. The wine list itself is a bit on the pricey side, but there are still a number of interesting vintages to be had at less than wallet-busting tariffs.

You may start things off with the raw bar, should you be so inclined. Offerings vary daily and are embellished with a spicy red pepper-lemon mignonette. Likely suspects include Long Island Sound Cape Neddick oysters ($2.50 each), Prince Edward Island Raspberry Point oysters ($3.00) or Sunberry Point oysters ($2.00), Rhode Island topneck clams ($1.50), or Maine Gerrish Island oysters ($2.50). Unable to make up your mind? Why not opt for a flight of the bivalves available on the evening of your visit ($15.00)?

Other gifts from the sea include a sweet and succulent jumbo lump crabmeat cocktail simply adorned with fresh lemon juice and ground black pepper ($15.00) and a plump array of dirty blond ale-steamed mussels in the company of house-smoked andouille sausage, plum tomatoes, julienne leeks, and fresh herbs ($10.00).

There are also a number of interesting salads from which to choose, and all make excellent preludes to your meal. The Caesar ($8.00) is a classic, boasting pristine leaves of romaine lettuce, Locatelli cheese, and just a subtle hint of anchovy in the dressing. The mixed field greens ($8.00) are awash with slices of Anjou pear & Vidalia onion and generous chunks of Roquefort cheese tossed with a very nice raspberry/red wine vinaigrette. Also highly recommended is the arugula salad ($9.00) sporting luscious Camembert Brie cheese croutons, prosciutto crisps, and a subtle yet distinctive strawberry vinaigrette.

Entrées, as the establishment's unabridged moniker suggests, are evenly divided between seafood and steaks& and all acquit themselves with suitable distinction. From the periodically changing "Chef's Specialties," I would highly recommend the beautiful pan-seared black cod ($27.00) set on a seabed of braised black beluga lentils and finished with a first-rate chive/vermouth beurre blanc.

The pan-seared veal tournedos and scallops ($29.00) accompanied by incredibly delicious melted leek mashed potatoes and wilted spinach are also a winner, although the delicate bivalves do tend to get a bit lost in a hearty mushroom/sun-dried tomato demi-glace. The pan-roasted Tilapia ($25.00), on the other hand, suffers no such setbacks, standing up quite well to an interesting combo of sage butter and apple wood smoked bacon.

In addition to the chef's specialties, you may also choose from a variety of charcoal grilled fish or steaks & chops and match them up with a sauce you think fills the bill. A center-cut filet mignon ($33.00) or New York strip steak ($32.00), for example, might be paired with a brandy peppercorn sauce, zinfandel demi-glace, sauce béarnaise, or Roquefort demi-glace.

And when it comes to matters piscatorial, there are several marriages that appear to have been made in heaven. The medium rare yellowfin tuna ($27.00), for instance, finds a perfect partner in an exotic ponzu sauce (a Japanese sauce made with rice vinegar, soy sauce, mirin and/or sake, seaweed, and dried bonito flakes), while the New Zealand wild king salmon ($23.00) reaps the benefits of a zippy chimichurri (a thick Argentinean herb sauce consisting of olive oil, vinegar, parsley, oregano, onion, garlic, and cayenne and black pepper).

Creed's also features a tempting dessert menu as well as a top-notch array of ports, cognacs, and other after-dinner libations.

My wife and I have dined here on numerous occasions, and we have yet to suffer disappointment. Highly recommended on all counts.

March 2004
The Artful Diner

The Artful Diner Diner is a freelance food writer who writes restaurant reviews for nj.com. His latest review can be seen on his nj.com weblog at http://blog.nj.com/artful_diner/. An archive of past reviews for nj.com as well as reviews for restaurants around the country and the world can be found on this Web site at http://www.artfuldiner.com/reviews .

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