New Jersey Restaurant Review
Conti's Little Flower Ristorante
136 Farnsworth Avenue
Bordentown, Burlington County, New Jersey
(609) 291-0291
By The Artful Diner
Special to New Jersey Online
2/12/01
(Restaurant Now Closed)
There have been several restaurant incarnations in this attractive establishment, the most recent being Conrad's, which majored in excellent progressive American cuisine. Conti's, though, is a horse of a decidedly different color. Chef/Owner Richard Conti and his wife, Jennifer, satisfy their patrons with familiar, down-home Italian specialties. And while the food would hardly be considered cutting edge, the portions are generous & generally well prepared; and prices are an excellent bang for your buck. Did I say generous? Make that humongous. Even the most demanding of appetites will eventually wave the white flag... and doggy bags are very much in evidence.
The narrow, bi-level dining area is stylish and comfortable, boasting subdued lighting, colorful, jazz-related paintings and a vintage 1940 bass fiddle in one corner. The fiddle, we were told, originally belonged to Bill Moon, Mr. Conti's father-in-law, a well known Trenton musician.
From the get-go, many eateries can be intimidating or simply strike the wrong chord. Conti's Little Flower, on the other hand, will put you at ease the moment you cross the threshold. Maitre d' Craig Parker handles the front of the house with a graciousness that is as warm as the ambiance, and the well chosen members of the wait staff also radiate the same good cheer. So be sure to pay a call at the cozy bar/lounge at the front, where "Tiny," the affable bartender, will see to your preprandial libatory needs.
And speaking of libations... Once settled in, don't forget to take a gander at the wine list, which holds some very promising -- and reasonably priced -- possibilities. The Markham Sauvignon Blanc ($17.00) is always a good bet, as is the Hess Select Chardonnay ($16.00) And for something a bit different, be sure to try the Contratto "Le Arnelle" Gavi de Gavi ($24.00). If you prefer red, check out Estancia's Cabernet Sauvignon ($20.00) or St. Francis Merlot ($24.00). The best bargain, however, is undoubtedly Antinori's 1998 Santa Christina Sangiovese, a steal at $15.00.
Conti's appetizers are usually up to the mark. Bearing in mind the size of the presentations, however, and the fact that a small salad is included with your main course, you may wish to consider sharing. Mussels marinara ($7.95) is a good opening move. The sauce has a bit of heat, just enough to make things interesting, and the bivalves themselves are plump and tasty. The escarole with beans ($5.95) is positively massive. The slightly bitter greens are sautéed with white cannolini beans in garlic and olive oil and served over polenta. There's enough here to feed a small army.
The California beet salad ($5.95) sounded intriguing but fell flat. The beets and blue cheese cancelled each other out, leaving the palate with more questions than answers. So save yourself a few bucks and stick with the aforementioned salad freebie. The balsamic vinaigrette is quite excellent, and be sure to add the crumbled blue cheese ($1.00).
Entrées have their ups and downs... But order with a wee bit of circumspection and all will be well. The chicken and sausage giambotta ($12.95) is a hefty portion of juicy boneless chicken breast dressed up with an abundant supply of bite-size Italian sausage, potatoes, peppers & sweet onions, and topped off with a crown of melted mozzarella. The eggplant parmigiana ($12.95) doesn't hold any big surprises, but the eggplant is tender and thinly sliced, and the marinara is rich and satisfying. A variation on this theme is a special of chicken and eggplant parmigiana ($15.95) -- chaperoned by a layer of luscious ricotta cheese -- which is also generous to a fault.
Not nearly so edifying is the veal piccante ($15.95), which is decidedly tough and drowned in a butter sauce that has entirely too much lemon for its own good. Also off target is a side of baked asparagus ($3.95) that arrives swimming in a sea of oil.
On the other hand, two gigantic pork loins ($17.95) are a succulent success. And a special of tilapia ($17.95), prepared with a simple touch of butter and seasonings, is absolutely pristine and proof positive that the kitchen is also capable of a good deal of subtlety and finesse.
Should you be so inclined, you may create your own pasta extravaganza by matching linguine, rigatoni, cappellini, fettuccine, etc., with your favorite sauce. Have a go at the Alfredo ($13.95), fra diavlo ($16.95), or filetto di pomodoro ($12.95). And why not throw in a side of homemade meatballs or Italian sausage ($3.00) just for good measure?
Desserts ($4.50), the majority of which are shipped in, are not terribly exciting: a so-so velvet cheesecake, a generic Key lime pie. The one exception is the ricotta cheesecake baked by Mr. Conti's aunt. Deliciously creamy, with just a touch of almond flavoring, it is well worth seeking out.
The Little Flower Ristorante isn't about to bowl you over with creative cookery. On the other hand, the welcome is warm, the rustic portions of Italian cuisine more than copious, and the surroundings pleasant and comfortable... And isn't that what dining is all about?
Cuisine: Italian with a few variation.
Hours: Dinner: Tues - Sat, 5:00 p.m. - 10:00 .m.; CLOSED SUNDAY AND MONDAY
Credit Cards: AX, MC, V, Discover
Attire: Casual
Smoking: Permitted at the bar only
Reservations: Suggested
Parking: Ample street parking
Alcohol: License
Price: Moderate
Handicapped Accessible: Yes. There is one step up from the bar to the dining room.
