Comfort
200 West Broad Street
Richmond, Virginia
(804) 780-0004

Comfort is a most appropriate moniker for this informal eatery. It's super casual, unpretentious and, well, yes... comfortable. The slightly weathered interior sports a high pressed-tin ceiling, bare wooden tables with a number of high-back booths, polished hardwood floors, and a nice bar area. Even though Comfort is situated in what might be termed a "semi-iffy" neighborhood, it nevertheless attracts a sophisticated and food-wise clientele that is always on the prowl for good, solid Southern fare at modest prices. And the place is tremendously popular. We visited on a normally dead-as-Kelsey's-nuts Monday evening and, by 7:00 p.m., the joint was really jumping.

The menu is short, sweet, and to the point. Appetizers include so-so-green ($3.00) and spinach ($4.00) salads with a variety of equally so-so-dressings. The potato cakes ($5.00), on the other hand, are first-rate. Deep fried to a golden brown, they are marvelously crisp on the outside, silky at the core, and served up with sour cream with chives on the side.

But if you really want a taste of the old South, be sure to sample the benchmark fried green tomatoes ($5.00) — trust me, once you've succumbed, there is simply no turning back — or the equally addictive Surry sausage ($7.00). Other possibilities include baked oysters ($7.00) and soup of the day ($3.00 cup; $4.00 bowl).

Main courses may be ordered with either two or three side dishes and are priced accordingly. The pulled pork BBQ ($10/$12) is especially good, moist and succulent and sporting a potent dash of vinegar. The breading imprisoning the deep fried catfish ($13/$15) is too much and too bland. Once you break through the crust, however, the fish itself is tender and flaky.

Based upon our personal experiences, entrée-wise, I think it's best to keep things simple. The meatloaf ($12/$14) sounds like a good bet, as do the grilled trout ($16/$18) and pot roast ($15/$17). A vegetable plate ($9/$11) is also available.

The side dishes, though, are really Comfort's strong suit. The scalloped potatoes are delightfully decadent... ditto the creamy macaroni and cheese. The cheddar cheese grits are down-home good, and the October beans (cranberry beans) and sweet corn are both quite excellent. Even the deep-fried okra (not my favorite vegetable) manages to acquit itself with reasonable distinction.

For dessert, be sure to sample the incredible banana pudding ($6.00)... Just think of it as crème brûlée with an attitude.

If you're in search of a casual, reasonably priced yet rewarding evening at table, you will find Comfort as comforting to your pocketbook as it is to your palate.

The Artful Diner
September 2004

The Artful Diner is a freelance food writer who writes restaurant reviews for nj.com. His latest review can be seen on his nj.com weblog at http://www.nj.com/weblogs/artfuldiner/. An archive of past reviews for New Jersey Online as well as reviews for restaurants around the country and the world can be found on this Web site at http://www.artfuldiner.com/reviews .

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