New Jersey Restaurant Review
Clarks Bar & Grill
847 Arnold Avenue
Point Pleasant, Ocean County, New Jersey
(732) 899-1111
By The Artful Diner
Special to New Jersey Online
June 14, 1999
Clarks is the quintessential Jersey Shore eatery. The atmosphere is decidedly informal, the view of the marina spectacular, and the menu predominated by an interesting array of seafood selections. There's even an outdoor patio with its own diminutive kitchen/bar where you may enjoy a limited variety of grilled items and appropriate liquid libations during the summer months. But don't let the casual demeanor fool you; this is no glorified happy-tappy majoring in so-so service and slapdash seashore fare. The youthful members of the wait staff are up to the mark, and the carefully prepared portions of copious cuisine are unquestionably a cut above.
There's a large bustling, gregarious bar here; a great place to pause for a drink before dinner. And the compact, reasonably-priced wine list--which includes several sparkling wines, ports and premium martinis--is an admirable complement to the food. A crisp, refreshing Italian Pinot Grigio from Ecco Domani goes for $18.00 per bottle or $4.75 per glass. Prefer chardonnay? Try the Estancia ($21.00/$5.00) or the Hess Select ($19.00). In the red wine department, I recommend Washington State's Columbia Crest Merlot ($24.00/$6.25) or the Estancia Pinot Noir ($22.00).
When it comes time to settle in at table, bear in mind that the best seats in the house are in the nonsmoking section, a few paces down, on the enclosed porch directly overlooking the marina. But since no reservations are accepted between Memorial Day and Labor Day, to snare one of these prime perches, you would do well to arrive early.
Among the starters, the wood-grilled shrimp ($9.95) from the bar menu are absolutely top-notch. They are perfectly prepared and accompanied by a freshly-made relish of chopped tomatoes, red onions, capers, a roasted head of garlic and grilled garlic bread. The clams casino ($6.50) are also quite appealing. Plump and not the least bit chewy, they are topped with diced onions & peppers, hickory smoked bacon and just a hint of spice.
If you enjoy soups, Clarks' black bean ($4.00) is an absolute must. It is, without doubt, the most outstanding representative of this particular genre that I have sampled anywhere (and that includes a plethoric variety of Mexican eateries). Partially pureed, wonderfully robust and brimming with flavor, it arrives piping hot in an oversize bowl and is tastefully garnished with a dollop of sour cream, chopped red onions and jalapenos. Another excellent prelude, which is quite suitable for sharing, is the special hearth-baked French Brie ($6.25) accompanied by a bevy of crackers and fresh fruit.
A complimentary salad of assorted greens and various colorful accessories is also included with your meal. While the state of the ingredients may vary (at times they are freshly tossed; on other occasions, they appear to have spent an extended period of exile in the frige), the homemade dressings more than compensate for any deficiencies. The balsamic vinaigrette is quite tasty, as is the blue cheese. The embellishment of preference, however, is clearly the decadently delicious peppercorn/Parmesan with hints of garlic and shavings of fresh Parmesan cheese.
You may indulge yourself with such diverse entrees as grilled filet mignon with Madagascar peppercorn sauce ($25.95), rack of lamb with bearnaise ($26.95), a special "Prime Rib of Buffalo" ($28.95), or even the likes of "Chicken Parmigiana" or "Pasta Primavera" (both $14.95). For my money, however, finny fare is clearly the way to go here, as it is both impeccably fresh and quite reasonably priced.
The red snapper ($16.95), for example, is a diner's delight; and it may be served up a la provencal or broiled and garnished with an enticing roasted corn/tomato relish. The salmon ($16.95) is another winning choice. The filet is oven-baked in lemon and white wine, then presented on a seabed of sauteed spinach. The tuna steak ($15.95), a personal fave, is also baked and arrives at table swimming in an immensely satisfying rustic red pepper sauce. The special pan-seared halibut ($15.95) receives a significant boost from the zesty crust of breadcrumbs, fresh horseradish and cilantro.
A bit pricier, but also highly recommended, are the luscious Maryland jumbo lump crab cakes ($25.95) and the hale 'n' hearty mariner's stew ($23.95), which comes replete with shrimp, scallops, mussels, clams & lobster, and is served over linguine.
Entrees are accompanied by the fresh vegetable of the day and your choice of potatoes/rice/pasta. The veggies, in my experience, are something of a mixed bag. On one occasion they can be picture-perfect; on another, they are tired and overcooked. With regard to the starches, you will find the mashed potatoes redolent of garlic, appropriately lumpy and simply wonderful. The roasted red bliss potatoes are also quite acceptable. The rice pilaf is merely passable; ditto the linguine with marinara.
If you have a sweet tooth, be advised that the dessert offerings include both imported items and those made in-house. Needless to say, the latter are infinitely preferable, so be sure to query your server. The homemade rice pudding ($3.50) is rich and comforting, as is the banana cheesecake ($4.95) and the chocolate mousse ($3.50). And, although it is made off-campus, you will find that the Snickers layer cake more than fills the bill. Additionally, be sure to finish things off with a strong cup of coffee ($1.25) or potent espresso ($2.25); both are quite good.
If you're in search of a fun place to tie on the feedbag at the Jersey Shore, Clarks Bar & Grill should most assuredly be on your dining agenda. Just one caveat: the restaurant is wildly popular (and with good reason); so come early, or be prepared to wait.
Cuisine: Seafood/Eclectic
Hours: Summer: Mon - Thurs, 11:30 a.m. - 12:30 a.m.; Fri & Sat, 11:30 a.m. - 1:30 a.m.; Sun, 10:00 a.m. - 1:00 a.m.; Closed Mon & Tues in the off-season
Credit Cards: All major
Attire: Very casual
Smoking: Separate nonsmoking section
Reservations: Not accepted between Memorial Day & Labor Day
Parking: On site
Alcohol: License
Price: Moderate/Expensive
Handicapped Accessible: Yes
