CHOW-DOWN CHECKMATES
The first of a three-part series devoted to
The fine art of taking one's restaurant leave with style
Part I: Cozying Up to the Chef
Let us assume that, with incredible subtlety and skill, you have guided your dinner to a satisfactory conclusion. However... since it is still possible to snatch defeat from the jaws of victory, you would do well to remain vigilant. A less than stellar restaurant entrance allows you sufficient opportunity to redeem yourself at table. A botched exit, on the other hand, is likely to obviate your heretofore carefully laid groundwork in a given establishment and label you a gastronomic loser among all parties concerned.
In superior restaurants, particularly those with specific seatings, it is not uncommon for the chef to put in a well-timed appearance in the dining room. If such a materialization is not forthcoming, it is perfectly permissible for you to request his/her presence at your table. Needless to say, this is the boldest (and the riskiest) of all possible closing maneuvers.
When attempting such a ploy, therefore, your timing is of the utmost importance. A quiet weekday evening, for example, is infinitely preferable to a feeding-time-at-the-zoo Saturday night. If up to his/her asparagus in the organized chaos of the kitchen, the chef will not be very kindly disposed toward the granting of interviews.
Your manner in requesting the chef's presence will also bear significantly upon your success/failure in this endeavor. At some point prior to the presentation of the check, you ever so casually suggest to your server: "By the way... if Andre isn't too busy, would you please ask him to join Mr. and Mrs. Snootbottom for a moment."
Mentioning the chef by name will immediately inform your assigned lackey that you and Andre are probably old and dear friends (even if the information was ascertained a scant five minutes before by dropping a little cold, hard cash in maître d's hot and sweaty palm). Mentioning your name will gave Andre pause... Does he know you? Perhaps you've met on some previous occasion... although the name simply doesn't ring any bells at the moment. Andre will, in most cases, accede to your wishes just to be on the safe side.
If you happen to be dining in a BYOB establishment, it is considered superlatively good form to offer the chef a sampling of a particularly noteworthy vintage (from your own cellar, of course) which just happened to pair exceptionally well with his/her Spécialité du Jour.
These goings-on may strike the casual reader as so much unmitigated and unnecessary snobbery. However, what is often considered snobbery to lesser palates is merely solid restaurant savvy to more knowledgeable diners.
In addition, if you have been privileged to partake of an extraordinary meal, it is only common courtesy to communicate your pleasure to the chef in person.
TO BE CONTINUED...go to Part II
Bon Appétit!
