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The Artful Diner writes restaurant reviews for nj.com. To receive e-mail notification when a new review or article is posted, send a note to artfuldiner@worldnet.att.net.

CHOOSING WISELY

The third of a three-part series devoted to
The fine art of selecting an appropriate restaurant

Part III: Trusting Your Instincts

While personal restaurant recommendations can be an iffy proposition and professional hired bellies a mixed blessing, both have their place in the conscientious diner's culinary arsenal. Even though I am a restaurant critic, my wife and I do read a copious amount of other restaurant reviews up and down the Garden State, and we are certainly not averse to accepting the recommendation of trustworthy friends on occasion. However... when it comes to a special celebration -- a birthday or anniversary, for example -- with a little postprandial romance in the offering, we inevitably head for familiar turf.

Trust me on this. Nothing has a more debilitating effect on the libido than the presentation of a highly-touted entrée that bears striking resemblance to the regurgitation of an endangered species. Nothing can dampen an evening (or one's ardor) with greater alacrity than the bumbling twit of a waiter who, with mellifluous ceremonial flourish, causes irreparable damage to the family jewels by depositing the piping hot Soupe du Jour in your unsuspecting lap.

So if you happen to be planning a supremely important evening -- romantic or otherwise -- my advice to you is simple: Eschew, as far as humanly possible, both recommendation and review and go with your own instincts and experience, however limited they may be. In other words, dine at an establishment you know intimately... or at least have frequented on several occasions.

By so doing, you are placing the odds for success solidly in your favor. You at least have a nodding acquaintance with the menu and wine list. And -- unless you happen to be a complete and utter washout at table -- you should be able to circumvent any minor difficulties that may rear their ugly heads. Barring a conflagration in the kitchen or other act of God, all should go well. However, even with the home field advantage, so to speak, a curve may occasionally be thrown your way.

We returned recently to one of our favorite haunts, restaurant Fromagerie in Rumson. Bordering on the "very expensive" category to be sure but, in my opinion, worth every penny. The main downstairs dining room can be a bit on the boisterous side, so we always opt for a table in the bar area. It's away from the madding crowd, and the chalet-like ambiance and soft lighting provide the perfect atmosphere for close encounters of the romantic kind.

When we called to make our reservation for a Friday evening, however, we were informed that a large wedding rehearsal dinner had booked the entire downstairs and that we would be dining upstairs. In many lesser establishments, this turn of events could easily have sounded the death knell for any gastronomic -- to say nothing of romantic -- possibilities. Fortunately, not at Fromagerie. The service remained as smooth as a Japanese railroad, and the French cuisine with subtle German/Alsatian touches was, as usual, impeccable.

Glowing recommendations and florid reviews not withstanding, there is simply no substitute for a personal, first-hand knowledge of the establishment in question. When all is said and done, you, dear diner, are your most reliable restaurant critic. You are the one who is most intimately acquainted with your own unique preferences and predilections, culinary idiosyncrasies and-- when your waiter at long last rides off into the sunset -- you are the one who will be stuck paying the tab. Certainly not a minor consideration.

Always keep one thing in mind: Well-meaning personal recommendations and reviews may lead you to water, but you are the one who must drink... and pay handsomely for the privilege.

# # #

Bon Appétit!

Dining Articles


The Artful Diner Diner is a freelance food writer who writes restaurant reviews for nj.com. His latest review can be seen on his nj.com weblog at http://blog.nj.com/artful_diner/. An archive of past reviews for nj.com as well as reviews for restaurants around the country and the world can be found on this Web site at http://www.artfuldiner.com/reviews .

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